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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a pro street 65 Comet from a good friend. It has a 416 stroker Cleveland and a 4speed. The shock towers have been removed and a pinto suspension and steering installed. I am going to convert it from pro street form into a gasser. I'm going to start with the front end and eventually change the rear after the front is done.
I have a complete econoline van front suspension and steering that I am currently disassembling cleaning and rebuilding. I just bought a Courier steering box on ebay that will mount outside the frame rail for a cross steer setup.
I had originally planned on using the econoline springs but am considering trailer springs.

I am open to any and all experienced opinions and suggestions as I move along.

Photos will be slow coming because I rarely have any time at my computer and most internet posting from my phone. This particular forum does not seem to be very smart phone friendly.

Thanks
Brad
 

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Glad to see you're starting this build thread! Trailer springs can work, but be sure they are the longer trailer springs, not the little short 24"-26" springs. Those shorter springs are very choppy, and stiffer than their load rating indicates. They also usually have 3-4 leafs, so removing one is about all you can do to soften the ride. The Speedway gasser springs are around 30-31" long, and multi leaf, and a better choice if you can't find longer 29"-31" trailer springs.
Looking forward to seeing pictures when you get going on the Comet! I like that body much more than the Falcon I built mine from!
 

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Hi Brad. I used an Econoline front end on my car. The springs on the axle are a little wider in back than the front, so if your frame rails are straight, you may have to account for that. They are longer that the Speedway springs. They had not started selling them when I was putting the front end under the car or else I probably would have went that route. But your springs are paid for too. I have a source for disc brakes if you are interested. I think Vall adapted a set to his axle also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm planning on discs using Speedway brackets, gm metric calipers and aerostar rotors. I'm cheap and it can be done for $100 or less.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=772222

I'm getting a 2 post lift in about a week. When it's installed I'll lift the Comet and remove the pinto stuff and then I'll be able to roll the straight axle under it and see how the econoline springs fit and go from there. I think they might be too long and too soft.
 

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Glad you started the build thread. Looking forward to watching your progress.
Mark
 

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Welcome..... Have always like the '65 Cyclones. Having the "lift" will be a good investment.

I use my cell phone from time to time. It is not like having a laptop or tablet but once you get used to a cellphone it is doable. Especially nice when it comes to posting pictures.... just takes some practice.
 

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I'm planning on discs using Speedway brackets, gm metric calipers and aerostar rotors. I'm cheap and it can be done for $100 or less.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=772222
Hey I recognize that HAMB thread on disc brakes! I started the thread when I began my Falcon project, and just finished doing that swap on my buddy's Nova with E100 front axle. You'll want to also convert to the late 60's Mustang dual master, and get one for disc/drum setup. About $17 from my local Autozone, and I turned in the old single pot master for the core.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Small world huh Vall!
So here's the picture of the Comet. As you can see it's not an extreme pro street car and the rear wheel wells were radiused back in the 70's so it's a perfect candidate to go gasser. The rear end isn't extremely narrow and some different rear wheels and tires could give a more gasser look in the back but those rear coil overs just jump out at my eye's from behind. That's probably why I'm starting at the front because there's some wiggle room on what to do in the rear and will be addressed after it's driving again with the straight axle.
 

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Oh yeah, that is going to look great with the straight axle (or beam axle) and the radiused rears. If I may suggest, I would still keep it very close to the height you have so the rear tires just fit in the wheel arch (and not touch during suspension travel). That econoline axle should bring the front tires out perfectly with the front fender/side body line and still use skinny front tires and rims. But don't go too high on the stance so the rear tires stay close to the same radius as the rear wheel openings. That is going to be one tough looking Comet.
One more suggestion in case you're new to Gasser suspensions. It's in regard to the front axle/spindle center line. When you go to a lifted front end (plus smaller height tires) it's a good visual idea to place the front axle center line about an inch forward of the original cars center line. The forward tire with a lot of front wheel well opening looks much better and that one inch makes a really big visual difference. Take into account how much the spindle will move back also when you are setting your caster angle on the dropped axle. As you tilt it back to get more caster it will move the spindle center line and therefore the tire placement in the wheel well farther back. When I had my Chevy pickup beam axle installed I asked for a 2 inch move forward. When the guy was installing it I was setting home thinking about it and got scared thinking I had gone too far. But by the time it was installed and I tilted it back to (for now 6 degrees) it came out perfect.
Just suggestions though, your car will be great no matter what you do. You have a great platform to build it from. I bet that thing sounds awesome.

Mark
 

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nice project build .I used the same axle but had to shorten it by 3in to fit under my bronco. the springs I used are rear bronco leafs with a 3in arch . they are the same width as the van springs. I didn't have springs but found out by searching for springs that they are both 2 1/4 wide and fit nice under my bronco. I hope this will help you.kevin
 

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When I got my springs I took one out so it would soften the ride some. My little bronco has such a short wheelbase it's not going to matter much. I think with your car it should ride much smoother than mine will. here is a pic of my front axle.kevin
 

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Nice Comet. A friend is using a jeep cherokie 2wd front axle with speedway springs. They have disc brakes and ford bolt pattern, I thing it was $69 at U-pull it yard We just cut all the coil spring mounts and welded the speedway spring mounts on. Steering linkage works with stock box in forward location as in picture attachment.
 

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Nice Comet. A friend is using a jeep cherokie 2wd front axle with speedway springs. They have disc brakes and ford bolt pattern, I thing it was $69 at U-pull it yard We just cut all the coil spring mounts and welded the speedway spring mounts on. Steering linkage works with stock box in forward location as in picture attachment.
Using the stock box, is he using a different pitman arm to get the drag link level? Or is it close enough to level to not have bump steer issues?
 

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Vall
It looks good, the Jeep has split tie rod with ball joint to pitman arm on one piece. We mounted box for strait as possible linkage front to back and top to bottom. It's almost like it was a kit made for the Falcon. We cut steering shaft to run along the frame to original box location with Hime joint at rear then used second shaft from steering wheel cut and joined with Borgeson joint.

Using the stock box, is he using a different pitman arm to get the drag link level? Or is it close enough to level to not have bump steer issues?
 

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Vall
It looks good, the Jeep has split tie rod with ball joint to pitman arm on one piece. We mounted box for strait as possible linkage front to back and top to bottom. It's almost like it was a kit made for the Falcon. We cut steering shaft to run along the frame to original box location with Hime joint at rear then used second shaft from steering wheel cut and joined with Borgeson joint.

Using the stock box, is he using a different pitman arm to get the drag link level? Or is it close enough to level to not have bump steer issues?
 

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Thanks Judd! I really like the Jeep axle's use of ball joint type ends, as it makes them easy to work on without the kingpin. I know they're a bit bulkier out at the ends, but it's a nice setup. I also like that they're already disc brakes, and no conversion needed. Once all the brackets are cleaned off it's a pretty clean looking setup. I have a friend who's using one in his lowered '32 Hudson, and using 1/4 eliptic springs with rack and pinion steering. It works great for that setup too.
 

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Did I miss this thread? Good for you for deciding what you want and going for it. That is a purty car.. Gonna be fun I will be watching...
 
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