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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just getting started on this, we've only had it a couple weeks. Bought it as a rolling shell, the pic with the white fender is exactly how it looked. Building a 2x3 subframe for the straight axle, pretty much like the one Speedway sells but with a few differences. I first leveled the car in all directions, using shimmed jackstands and a digital level. I am using the stock core support, so I put some "X" bracing in the engine compartment to keep the core support in position after removal of the stock frame and inner fenders. Today I finished welding up the main frame section and got it tacked in to the plates where the stock frame was. Next step is build and install the pipes that go from the top of the firewall down to support the front of the frame. I am concerned about header clearance though, so I'm going to mock up a dummy block with the fenderwell headers installed first. Going to try to post some pictures now.
~John~ Nova30Aug2013 064.jpg Nova30Aug2013 082.jpg Nova30Aug2013 001.jpg Nova30Aug2013 022.jpg Nova30Aug2013 066.jpg
 

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Great start! One of the nicest things about a Nova is the removeable subframe that lends it self so well to fabbing a replacement. The upper braces are usually straight forward at an angle, but with fenderwell headers it's not usually going to clear.
Here's a picture I robbed off the internet of a BBC powered Nova. He added a vertical brace to the upper brace to further support it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
progress 31 Aug 2013

Novafront31Aug2013 022.jpg Novafront31Aug2013 023.jpg Novafront31Aug2013 027.jpg Novafront31Aug2013 021.jpg Thanks Vall, that's pretty much how I'm doing mine. I was worried about header clearance, so I mocked up a dummy motor. Couldn't resist setting the injection on it for a little motivation! Going to try to post a couple pics of what I got done today.
 

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That's pretty much how I did my BBC powered Falcon. Just used my homemade mockup engine with the Tri 5 BBC fenderwell headers bolted to it, and made everything fit around that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
6 Aug 2013

Been kind of held up trying to figure out what front rotors to use. I'm using a narrowed sprint car axle with '62 F100 spindles. I was hoping to find something that wouldn't require machine work, but struck out. I ended up getting 1990 Crown Vic rotors. The outer bearing from the F100 will fit, but the inner and seal will not. Took the rotors to a machine shop today, and they are going to machine them to accept the stock F100 inner bearing and seal. They said it would be $50-60. Now that I'm reasonably certain it's going to work, tomorrow I'm going to weld up the axle and try to get it mocked up in the car.(Can't weld the pads on until the back of the car is done) I realized that I didn't have any Ford wheels laying around, so I went and picked a couple up from the junkyard. I put the fenders back on so I could put the tires under them to verify the length for the axle. Looks like mine is going to be 1" longer than the one in the Speedway kit. Nova6Sep2013tires 001.jpg Nova6Sep2013tires 003.jpg Nova6Sep2013tires 005.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Progress 24 Oct 2013

novacragars14oct2013 003.jpg Novarollbar24Oct2013 043.jpg Novarollbar24Oct2013 038.jpg Novarollbar24Oct2013 040.jpg Novarollbar24Oct2013 041.jpg It's coming along pretty good. Got the backhalf done, subframe connectors built and installed. Got an 8-point roll bar from Jegs, finished that today. Was tempted to go with a full cage, but this is going to be mainly a street car, so I decided I don't need all those extra bars obstructing my vision. Going to start on the wheel tubs tomorrow. Have not done the rear suspension yet, because I ran out of money and can't afford the ladder bars I want. Going to try to post some pics if I can remember how...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks awesome! Why not get some tubing and fab your own ladder bars?
I could, but by the time you buy 6 rod ends, the double adjusters for the bottom tube, and both sets of brackets, that's quite a bit of money already. Then there is the tubing that either has to be threaded with the 2 different taps I don't have, or buy weld bungs for $10 each. I'm all about saving money, especially if what I build is better, but I think in this case it would be an awful lot of work to save a little money.
 

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Give Frank at QS Components a try for your rod ends and fittings. One of our members turned me on to QS and I've been using them ever since. Much cheaper than anyone else, and free shipping on all parts. He has probably saved me 40% over prices I see elsewhere for heims, weld bungs, etc.

http://www.qscomponents.com/index.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Tubs and trunk floor

It's been about 20 years since I installed tubs, so it took me a while. I am reusing the stock gas tank, but turned around backwards so the deep part is in the back. I removed the tank mounts from the original trunk floor and installed them on my fabricated trunk floor. I made it out of a piece of metal with ribs on it that I bought at the Carlisle swap meet. The original gas filler neck was inside of the squared off factory wheelwell. The new 36" tub wanted to run right through the filler hole in the quarter, so I gave it a little extra material and was able to bend it down to go under the hole. I then made a new filler neck out of 2" exhaust pipe. It runs through the trunk, down through a hole in the trunk floor, and clamps on to the new neck I welded to the tank. Ladder bars and brackets should be here tomorrow! NovaTubs7Nov2013 036.jpg NovaTubs7Nov2013 053.jpg NovaTubs7Nov2013 048.jpg NovaTubs7Nov2013 051.jpg NovaTubs7Nov2013 043.jpg Okay, I was trying to show some of what goes in to measuring for tubs, but only got 5 pics to load. I'll post some more.
 

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Wow what an awesome build. I was so into my MG project I missed this one. Great job. Looks strong and clean looking too.
mario
 
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