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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
recently done wheels and tires they are smoothies from wheel vintiques and m/t drag radials....im gonna put some 3in white walls on the front soon and a 4-6in front end lift





 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i want to put a different motor and trans in the future but for now it has

sbc350
th350
12 bolt 3.73 form a 65 chevy truck

it runs decent its basically stock with nice exhaust...its fun to cruise around in

front end lift and fenderwell headers and front whitewalls are on the list next
 

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Nice truck Wick. Welcome aboard. Lookin' forward to watching your progress.
 

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Welcome to the forum Wick! That's probably the best looking Chevy design ever! Always liked the '55-'59 Chevy trucks!
 

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Wick-cool truck,lots of patina.I also have a 55 3200 stock hight truck that I am thinking of giving the gasser look. Its so easy to do-just block up the front end a few ins and thats it.I also like to tilt the kingpins back a few degrees for more steering stability. Nothing worse than a poor handling I beam! Good luck with the build-post pics!
 

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Wick, nice old chevy. I'm using a front beam axle from a '57 Chevy truck in my Pontiac. So you already have the start of a gasser. I've always loved that series of Chevy/GMC pickups. Mark L
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wick-cool truck,lots of patina.I also have a 55 3200 stock hight truck that I am thinking of giving the gasser look. Its so easy to do-just block up the front end a few ins and thats it.I also like to tilt the kingpins back a few degrees for more steering stability. Nothing worse than a poor handling I beam! Good luck with the build-post pics!
does anyone have advice on how to go about doing a front end lift on my stock i-beam 3-5 inches
 

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Wick- One thing I have seen done is to strip the front springs down to the main leafs and use adjustable coilovers to get your ride hight.You can also get some control over ride quality also. If you go to the trifive gasser page and look up 2Loose s build,thats what he did and he says it works just fine.I would just be sure to beef up the mounting points to take the wieght.
 

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does anyone have advice on how to go about doing a front end lift on my stock i-beam 3-5 inches
Easiest/cheapest way is to have new springs made with more arc, but the same length. So the spring maker will have to make them longer as the arc gets greater. You can also put spring perch blocks inbetween the axle and the spring to raise it, and get longer U bolts to clamp it. I wouldn't go more than 3" with blocks.
Regardless of what way you go you'll probably have to do something to raise the draglink from the pitman arm to the steering arm on the backing plate, or you'll have some bumpsteer issues with the angle being greater. Might be as simple as just making up a spacer to raise the attachment point a little to get it closer to level.
If you strip the springs down to one and went with coilover shocks you'll need to also add a front panhard bar, as the spring pack keeps the springs from twisting or moving laterally. Without the pack together, a panhard bar would keep the axle centered and not allow lateral movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ive thought about adding steel blocks in between frame and leaf spring mounting points and gusseting the blocks....and make a new z shaped drag link with heim joint ends

opinions on that?
 

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Wick-that idea would work but I think its alot of work to go to to get the same result. I dont know about the drag linc idea -maybe someone else has tried it and can comment. If it were me ,I would have the springs re arced,use a 3 in block and teflon the springs. I think you would get the lift you want without upsetting too much geometry. Thats probably the cheapest way to go also. If things dont work you can always go back to stock .
 

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I have never tried the block system but have observed larger trucks using them so it must work. Maybe someone here has tried it and can comment. We have some I beam discussion going on in the trifive truck section that may interest you.
 

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I've seen a number of straight axle cars with 2"-3" blocks, and even some taller. I wouldn't have an issue with blocks in 2"-3", and I think they wouldn't need gussets either. Over that I'm not sure.
You could raise the truck with more spring arc, or blocks, and see how the steering works stock. Then if it gets too much bump steer you could try making up a different drag link. I'm not sure a "Z" shape will react differently from going at an angle. It doesn't change the end of the pitman arm on the steering box, or the attachment point on the axle. You could get a bracket for the backing plate to move the steering to the top, and that would bring it inline with the end of the pitman arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
any idea where to get some steel 3in blocks from or should i just make some out of square tubing?

all the blocks ive found are cast or aluminum
 

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Most places that sell/make longer U bolts will have steel blocks. But box tubing would work good also, if you use a wall 1/4" thick or more.
 
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