'39 Chevy Coupe project.

Blackwidow said:

At least you can still stretch…….lol seems to be enough for me to take a 😴 anymore.
glad to hear a fix is going to be in play shortly……is that still a layered type frame, hard to believe it was brittle enough to crack.

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Not sure if it's a layered frame or not? It's what is called "hat channel" frame, but can't see any sign of multiple layers at the crack? I think my mounts I fabricated may have been better designed. They weld to the vertical inside edge, and with the motor's weight hanging on them, and torque of maybe a little heavy right foot, it cracked.
Once I weld the crack, and plate around this mount, I'll also weld flat bar to the top of the frame, and then an extra piece of flat bar off the top of the frame out to the end of the box tubing, so it's supported in both planes of the frame, side and top. Might be overkill once it's done, but it wont break out again either.
Heading out tomorrow morning before daylight to attend the antique gun show, so this repair is going to have to wait a week until after I get back next Monday.

Yesterday I took some time to address the stinky idle on my '39 Chev's 350 engine. The Quick Fuel carb has always run too rich, and the idle/air screws were just about closed to get things even reasonably close. Since this is a high end QF carb with 4 corner adjustment, it also has air bleed jets on all four venturis to get both idle speed, and high speed air adjustments done.
So I after getting info from Holley telling me what the stock idle air bleeds were, I ordered a set of 4 air bleeds 10 sizes larger. Stock were supposedly #64, and I got #74's for it. No markings on these air bleeds, but when I got the new ones, I pulled an old one to compare, using my numbered drill bits to check size. The old ones fit a .062" bit in the hole, and the new ones fit a .064" bit! Something definitely not right. But since I wanted to keep the stock bleed screws anyway, I just drilled the new ones out to a .073" hole, and installed them.
Before starting the engine I opened the mixture screws to one full turn, and then started the engine. It idled slightly slow, so I adjusted each corner until it got the highest idle, and highest vacuum reading. About 1.25 turns out per corner, which was a full turn more than before. The exhaust smell no longer burned my eyes, and it is very clean now!
I put my new timing light on the engine, but darned if I can see anything in the bright sunshine! Irritating, as I expected it to be brighter than my old 55 yr. old timing light! So after trying different ways to shade the engine, I gave up and timed it by "ear". Then drove it, and checked that it started fine when warmed up, and no pinging. Have to try it again at night I guess, as that seems to be the only way timing lights work well for me.
Saturday night is going to be an unofficial cruise in the gut across the river in Vancouver, Wa. and those are always fun! A lot like the old days where a bunch of people just show up and cruise Main St. for hours, or park in local hangouts and watch the cars go by. Supposed to be mid 80's, so some will likely be doing more parking than cruising!