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'39 Chevy Coupe project.

164877 Views 1716 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  1937Austin
Nothing really to report, but figured I'd start this here vs. keep posting on the swap meet thread. So here's the same images from the swap meet.











The seller delivered it late yesterday afternoon during another downpour of rain. So even assessing the car just wasn't any fun after getting soaked unloading it. And unloading proved to be a chore too!
First the seller trailer had a 3/4" plywood deck that was rotted, so one rear tire sunk into the deck creating a hole! Then as we rolled it off the front tire turned with no steering box. As I went up to turn it the other tire was pointed a different direction! That's when I looked underneath and noticed the tierods weren't connected! Independent front wheels didn't make steering it off the trailer very easy!
Finally got it off, and then with a guy on each front wheel we tried to push it into position and keep the wheels parallel. Wasn't easy, but got it done. Then I simply covered it up, and went inside to dry out.
But some really good news too! I never looked at the title, or asked what state it was from. But turned out to be a current Oregon clear title, and a matching vin tag he had inside the same envelope! So it wont even need a vehicle inspection like an out of state car would need! One less hassle, and expense for me!
Hopefully we'll get a break in the rain someday, and I can get all the parts out of the car, and get a closer look at what I'm up against with the rust repairs.
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I was new warranty mechanic for Cadillac in 19 78,79 and 80 so I know exactly what you mean. In fact I used to have the service manager give me the dealerships owner car to find a lousy squeak.
Nothing worse than trying to find a noise. I used to hate anything that came in with a weird noise when I worked at dealerships. I like when I search for something and everything else comes up.
When I was a young apprentice at the Cadillac dealership my first job was the minor repair line, which included chasing noises. The mechanics would put me in the backseat, or even the trunk, and drive around while I tried to determine where a squeak or rattle came from. Metal to metal noises were always the worst as the sound carries so well, and tough to pinpoint.
Getting ready for the show this Sat. I decided to dig out an old scoop I've had for years and swap it on the '39 for awhile. It's an early Mr. Gasket 3 hole bug catcher designed for a single carb, with the nice heavy cast base. Cleaned it all up, and wet sanded some marks off; then rubbed it out with Mother's polish. Went to try the base on my carb, but it had interference at the choke linkage. So got the die grinder out and relieved the thick base inside to make sure the choke linkage worked. Tried it again, and the darn bracing inside is like 6 spoke wheels and the front spoke hits the overflow tube on the bowls!
I decided to stop there, before doing any major surgery, and try the scoop to the base. Another road block. The scoop width at the front hits my radiator support rods! So to use it I'd have to rework the support rods and rebend them to go out wider to make room for the scoop. I finally just set it aside, and put my old air cleaner back on. Maybe I'll look at it again later this summer when I'm not pressed for time to get things done.
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That sucks. That is the story of my life. one good idea opens a boat load of issues.
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It's not impossible, but just have to decide if I want to spend the time, and money to buy new rod material, thread it, bend it, all to occasionally use this scoop. But it would look a bit cooler when I run without the hood, or even parked when people look at the engine bay and see the taller, larger scoop.
I've got two of these scoops I bought years ago. The other is for two fours, and the single four base actually fits both scoops, but the two fours scoop is way too big for my engine bay!
Vall, have you thought about a Hilborn style scoop for a single carb? hilborn style scoop for sale | eBay Personally I think it'd look better on your 39 than the newer bug catcher style you've got plus it's narrower so you probably wouldn't have the radiator support rod issue.. I picked one up for my Willys at the swap meet for $35.
Car Vehicle Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Tire Wheel Car Sky Vehicle
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Vall, have you thought about a Hilborn style scoop for a single carb? hilborn style scoop for sale | eBay Personally I think it'd look better on your 39 than the newer bug catcher style you've got plus it's narrower so you probably wouldn't have the radiator support rod issue.. I picked one up for my Willys at the swap meet for $35.
Yeah Steve, I have, but wanted to try this since I had it already. It is a little later era in gassers, but still well within the Gas Class era. The single carb Hilborn scoop is an easy fit, but I'd need to add a air cleaner spacer to get it up higher like the Mr. Gasket is with it's cast higher base.
I might look around Ebay and see what's there for Hilborn style to put on later.
I bought my 2” spacers on ebay Vall.
If I o with a spacer I want the polished aluminum. Twice as much, but they blend in with a scoop better.
I found the scoop brand new at Speedway Motors on Ebay for $84, but waiting for them to tell me how to choose which scoop since they show 3 different styles, but no way to pick one when you order?
If I o with a spacer I want the polished aluminum. Twice as much, but they blend in with a scoop better.
I found the scoop brand new at Speedway Motors on Ebay for $84, but waiting for them to tell me how to choose which scoop since they show 3 different styles, but no way to pick one when you order?
I agree with you on the aluminum I'm just to cheap so I went with the plastic.
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Well the Ebay Speedway buy it now is a bit of false advertising. After not getting anywhere online with Speedway, I called them, and was told the ad showing all three scoop versions was only good for the plain unpolished scoop. So in a polished they're charging $15 more, so gonna pass on it and see if something else comes up, or reconsider my Mr. Gasket scoop, and options there.
Figured whatever scoop I end up with might not hurt to change the bends in my polished aluminum radiator supports. So got out this morning and unbolted them to change them. Got one side bent up to clear using my 1/2" EMT bender as I originally did. Then just matched up the 2nd side and reinstalled them.
I was a bit surprised the OA length only changed about 1/4" or so shorter, so they fit right back in with just a small adjustment on the firewall end. The butterflies for this scoop were painted an ugly purple, so disassembled them, and used Jasco stripper to remove the paint. Under the paint I discovered the original metallic red powder coating on the butterflies, and the linkage arm! So no polishing needed, just reassemble the butterflies once I make up the linkage to operate off the carb. Have two 10-32 heim ends coming, but wont be here until next week, so I'll leave it open until then.
I think you are right about this scoop though Steve. It's a bit big for the overall look of the '39. So I'll keep looking for something else.



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Got the '39 out of the shop, and gave her a bath, and vacuum. Ready to head out a little after 5:00 a.m. tomorrow to the big show! And took it for a run and remembered to get a couple pictures of it after the new front springs!




Supposed to be around 92 for a high, so glad it's over around noon!
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Nothing short of spectacular!
Enjoy your Cruise!
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You did such a nice job on that coupe. I think that to myself every time I see a picture of it painted. Then I picture it on top of that truck on the flatbed when you were getting it delivered and I say what a great job you did.
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Show was great! Lots of spectacular cars, and saw a bunch of friends there. Fortunately brought a spare chair, so had friends stop and rest while we visited. Weather is hot today, but with the morning schedule I had to wear a pullover sweatshirt until about 10:30 and then it was warm enough to shed it.
Had a mishap on the way home, but no damage to the car. Was driving the freeway, and got near my exit when I began to hear a strange noise. Then I got sprinkles on the windshield, and smelled antifreeze! I looked at the gauge and it was 180, so since I was less than a mile from home I cruised slowly home.
Pulled in the driveway, and jumped out to look and my lower radiator hose was leaking pretty good! So I got out the creeper to look, and it was coming from the top. A flashlight revealed a spot where the hose was cut next to the radiator clamp, which I thought was weird. Ran to the parts store and took the piece of hose with me and bought another lower hose with a 1.75" ID, and a 90 in it. Cut it to fit, and installed it, but still wondered why it got cut? I removed the fan belt and turned the fan, and the blades bumped the new hose! Couldn't figure out why the fan suddenly was too close, so started looking around and saw on the driver's side motor frame mount a crack across the whole top edge where it's welded to the frame. Weld was still solid, but it cracked just above the weld. Looked at the passenger side, and found the same thing, only smaller.
So I'm going to have to pull the headers to get good clearance, and jack the engine up to close the gap, and weld it. Then I'll shape a 2" wide strap to saddle over the top of the frame, and weld it to the frame, and the motor mount, so it takes the torque off the side of the frame.
Probably be a one day job to fix, and since I'm headed to Colorado next week on Wed. I'll put it away, and wait until I return to make the repairs. Guess I should have gone over the top of the frame rails when I built it, and do it right the first time. Live and learn. If I think it might need it, best to just do it the first time, and not have to fix things later.
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You did such a nice job on that coupe. I think that to myself every time I see a picture of it painted. Then I picture it on top of that truck on the flatbed when you were getting it delivered and I say what a great job you did.
Thank you Mario! Very kind words. I do like it better now that the stance is a little higher with the new springs.
Don’t worry buddy you’ll get it you know it’ll be fine when you weld it
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Don’t worry buddy you’ll get it you know it’ll be fine when you weld it
I guess I really should have not have expected 84 year old metal to hold well without plating the frame rails in the area of the motor mounts.
My plan now is to make up plates from 3/16" steel to spread the surface area out. I'm going to jack the engine up to close the crack, and then start by welding the crack. Then I'll cut my plates with a 2"x2" notch in them, so they can be slid down over the frame brackets to straddle the brackets. Then I'll weld the plates to the existing motor mount brackets, and plug and perimeter weld the plates to the frame rails. I'm going to also weld a 90 degree top plate so the reinforcement isn't just to the inside of the frame rails, but also on top of the frame rails too. I figure if I make the plates about 6" long on the inside and top of the frame rails it should be plenty stout, and avoid any issues again.
Minor setback, and the toughest part will just be removing the headers, and reassembling after it's all done.
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