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What I really appreciated about this was the classification of Vintage Iron. Nice when people actually recognize a build for what you were trying to pull off.
'39 Chevy Coupe project.
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Thanks Dave!
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This is what happens when you're bored, and nothing going on with cars. I have been contemplating doing a matching red pinstripe down the stamped in trim line on my '39. I've seen a number of late 30's Chevys with one line, or even two thin pinstripes. So I got out the brush and masking tape, and set up a bottom edge tape line to stripe to and freehanded this red line inside the body line on each side.
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Don’t ever be surprised Vall. You’re a class act. That 39 is real cool and you did an awesome job. Well deserved.After getting home yesterday I was tired, but had to wash up the '39 because a friend wanted me to go to the car show this morning. There were 4 of us showed up from our car club, and three of us won trophies! Big surprise to us all! My '39 won "Best Vintage Iron" picked by the Elk's Lodge that put on the show.
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Thanks Mario!
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Went back over to the widow's garage today so my buddy could look at the WCFB carbs she has. He's got a small Desoto Hemi in his gorgeous '36 Ford coupe, and wanted a couple spares. He wasn't too impressed with the 3 carbs she had, b
ut one had a nice new top on it, so he got it as a spare. He also bought a Mallory dual point distributor with tach drive, plus an old electronic Mallory square black coil for $30, and a box of half dozen points for it for $2. Another box with two caps, and plug wires for the Mallory for $10, so he was happy.
I discovered a NOS Chevy points distributor, with cap in the original box, so I bought it so I could put my Accel points eliminator kit in it, and just swap distributors when II install it. Just put the kit in, so it's ready to go, but I need to determine how the MSD-6AL wires in with the Accel kit in the distributor so I can install that also when I do the swap. Probably wait for winter weather before putting the MSD 6AL in, or the distributor.
I picked up an extra cap, and rotor there, plus two seal puller tools. One a pry type, and one a slide hammer type. And a set of claw foot open ends to fit a 3/8" drive.
I did some more research on the two motors there that had DZ302 numbers on the blocks. I checked crankshaft numbers on the rebuilt engine and it's got a 350 crank in it, so it's now a 4 bolt main 350, not a 302. Would need crank and pistons to be correct, so worth much less. But the used engine is a correct number crankshaft, so it got sold today to another friend who was there looking.
Her husband worked at NAPA when Michael Waltrip was here in town, and visited the NAPA HQ here. He got a autographed hat and picture from him, and she gave them to me today. Not a big NASCAR fan, but I appreciated the gesture a lot.
ut one had a nice new top on it, so he got it as a spare. He also bought a Mallory dual point distributor with tach drive, plus an old electronic Mallory square black coil for $30, and a box of half dozen points for it for $2. Another box with two caps, and plug wires for the Mallory for $10, so he was happy.
I discovered a NOS Chevy points distributor, with cap in the original box, so I bought it so I could put my Accel points eliminator kit in it, and just swap distributors when II install it. Just put the kit in, so it's ready to go, but I need to determine how the MSD-6AL wires in with the Accel kit in the distributor so I can install that also when I do the swap. Probably wait for winter weather before putting the MSD 6AL in, or the distributor.
I picked up an extra cap, and rotor there, plus two seal puller tools. One a pry type, and one a slide hammer type. And a set of claw foot open ends to fit a 3/8" drive.
I did some more research on the two motors there that had DZ302 numbers on the blocks. I checked crankshaft numbers on the rebuilt engine and it's got a 350 crank in it, so it's now a 4 bolt main 350, not a 302. Would need crank and pistons to be correct, so worth much less. But the used engine is a correct number crankshaft, so it got sold today to another friend who was there looking.
Her husband worked at NAPA when Michael Waltrip was here in town, and visited the NAPA HQ here. He got a autographed hat and picture from him, and she gave them to me today. Not a big NASCAR fan, but I appreciated the gesture a lot.
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I would say that was a pretty good price.
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The next time somebody tells me that gassers can't do curvy roads well, I'm going to tell them to look at the Maryhill Hill Climb course!
I drove 100 miles to the Maryhill car show today, just because a buddy told me from noon to 2:00 p.m. they would let car show cars run the course for free! Only two days a year the road course is open. Today for fun, and tomorrow for the actual race. So at noon I left the car show and headed over to the hill climb. Nobody at the bottom to say go ahead, or wait a bit, so pushed the electric headers button, opened the pipes, and went for it. The road is a lot of really tight curves that test any car, regardless of how it's setup. But even more so for my old '39! I started the timer on my cell phone just to see how long it took to reach the top. Didn't hammer it hard, and never any howling tires. Did hit the brakes pretty hard on some of the hairpins, and spun the tires a little accelerating out of turns when the road allowed a hard pedal. I finished the run in 3 minutes flat, and at the top was greeted by a bunch of folks standing around their sports cars who watched the old '39 gasser make the run. They were all smiles, and said they loved watching the old car come up the run, and wanted to know if I was racing it tomorrow? I told them I just wanted to do it so I could say I did so in my '39 Chev.
The Maryhill road was the first paved road in Wahsington State, and was designed and built by railroad magnate Sam Hill to show people what roads could look like if they supported road development in the state. My time was off the fast cars time by a good 30 seconds, and probably even more off the really fast cars! My buddy's son drove his '61 Fuelie Vette up the hill, but not sure how quick as I met him going up when I was about halfway down the course. So we just waved as we passed. The course is 2 miles long, and goes from 500 ft. to 1500 ft. in the two mile stretch.
I drove 100 miles to the Maryhill car show today, just because a buddy told me from noon to 2:00 p.m. they would let car show cars run the course for free! Only two days a year the road course is open. Today for fun, and tomorrow for the actual race. So at noon I left the car show and headed over to the hill climb. Nobody at the bottom to say go ahead, or wait a bit, so pushed the electric headers button, opened the pipes, and went for it. The road is a lot of really tight curves that test any car, regardless of how it's setup. But even more so for my old '39! I started the timer on my cell phone just to see how long it took to reach the top. Didn't hammer it hard, and never any howling tires. Did hit the brakes pretty hard on some of the hairpins, and spun the tires a little accelerating out of turns when the road allowed a hard pedal. I finished the run in 3 minutes flat, and at the top was greeted by a bunch of folks standing around their sports cars who watched the old '39 gasser make the run. They were all smiles, and said they loved watching the old car come up the run, and wanted to know if I was racing it tomorrow? I told them I just wanted to do it so I could say I did so in my '39 Chev.
The Maryhill road was the first paved road in Wahsington State, and was designed and built by railroad magnate Sam Hill to show people what roads could look like if they supported road development in the state. My time was off the fast cars time by a good 30 seconds, and probably even more off the really fast cars! My buddy's son drove his '61 Fuelie Vette up the hill, but not sure how quick as I met him going up when I was about halfway down the course. So we just waved as we passed. The course is 2 miles long, and goes from 500 ft. to 1500 ft. in the two mile stretch.
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Very cool Vall. Wish I could have been there.
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It was a kick in the butt Mario! I wish it wasn't just one day a year the course is open. Well actually two days, but tomorrow is just the race cars.
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Yesterday on the way to the car show I was cruising down the freeway about halfway to the show and all of a sudden there was a big dip in the freeway! I hit it hard as I didn't have time to hit the brakes when I saw it. I slowed down and everything seemed OK, but a short time after I began to smell raw gas! I pulled over to check my entire fuel line from tank to carb, but all of it was secure and dry. So drove on to the show, and did the hill climb, and 100 mile run home. But always smelling the raw unburnt gas smell.
So today I was washing all the bugs off the car, and cleaning underneath, and hoped I'd see something, but still all dry. Then I had the light go off in my brain, and I said to myself, better check the vent. I built a cover over the vent and fuel sender to protect them from damage from anything I put in the trunk. So unscrewed the cover and set it aside. Sure enough the 3/8 hard line into the vent was snapped off right at the fitting! Easy fix, as I just dressed the end, slid the fitting over it, and put a new flare on the end. I added a rubber pad under the horizontal part of the line between the tank and the exit through the floor, just incase it might have vibrated at all in the 10" section. Sure glad I found it and it was an easy fix so I don't have to smell gas and wonder when it might ignite! But can't figure out how a well secured line could fracture, and snap clean off, even with multiple big bumps?
So today I was washing all the bugs off the car, and cleaning underneath, and hoped I'd see something, but still all dry. Then I had the light go off in my brain, and I said to myself, better check the vent. I built a cover over the vent and fuel sender to protect them from damage from anything I put in the trunk. So unscrewed the cover and set it aside. Sure enough the 3/8 hard line into the vent was snapped off right at the fitting! Easy fix, as I just dressed the end, slid the fitting over it, and put a new flare on the end. I added a rubber pad under the horizontal part of the line between the tank and the exit through the floor, just incase it might have vibrated at all in the 10" section. Sure glad I found it and it was an easy fix so I don't have to smell gas and wonder when it might ignite! But can't figure out how a well secured line could fracture, and snap clean off, even with multiple big bumps?
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Bugged me all day yesterday. I looked for the cause when I stopped, and again at the show, and again after the hill climb, and again when I got home. My eyes were watering from the fumes on the drive home yesterday! Of course if I'd found the issue quickly I'd have had to do a duct tape fix on the road, and then fix it right once I got home anyway.
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Drove the '39 over to help a younger friend figure out his gas leak on his Holley carb. Easy fix as it was the float adjustment nut loose on the front bowl. Then he mentioned it's running rich, and a quick search I discovered the electric choke wasn't opening. Bad connector for the 12v. signal, so a new connector fixed it.
We went for burgers and I noticed a horrible squeak in the front of my car. Did some investigation, with both of us hanging our heads out the windows as we drove back, and sounded like the right front. Got out at his house and began pushing and pulling on the right front fender and it was squeaking at a main support bracket.
When I got home I disassembled the headlight trim as the bracket bolts into the fender inside the bucket. Made a couple poly material spacers and drilled the bolt pattern into them. Sandwiched the poly between the bracket and the fender, and tightened it all down. End of the squeak, hopefully forever!
But during my climbing around under the car I also discovered the left front fender tab snapped off! Of course that's part of the fender, and no way to weld it without damaging paint. So I made up three triangular tabs and stacked them together to drill four 3/16" holes along the edge. Bolted a pair to the broken side, sandwiching the fender lip to them, and drilled through the holes and pop riveted it to the fender. Then used the third one on passenger side to reinforce the unbroken tab so it wont break later.
This old metal gets pretty brittle over 83 years, so hopefully this is the only issue, and not the beginning of issues!
We went for burgers and I noticed a horrible squeak in the front of my car. Did some investigation, with both of us hanging our heads out the windows as we drove back, and sounded like the right front. Got out at his house and began pushing and pulling on the right front fender and it was squeaking at a main support bracket.
When I got home I disassembled the headlight trim as the bracket bolts into the fender inside the bucket. Made a couple poly material spacers and drilled the bolt pattern into them. Sandwiched the poly between the bracket and the fender, and tightened it all down. End of the squeak, hopefully forever!
But during my climbing around under the car I also discovered the left front fender tab snapped off! Of course that's part of the fender, and no way to weld it without damaging paint. So I made up three triangular tabs and stacked them together to drill four 3/16" holes along the edge. Bolted a pair to the broken side, sandwiching the fender lip to them, and drilled through the holes and pop riveted it to the fender. Then used the third one on passenger side to reinforce the unbroken tab so it wont break later.
This old metal gets pretty brittle over 83 years, so hopefully this is the only issue, and not the beginning of issues!
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