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Discussion Starter · #1,421 ·
I officially don't trust the chain store's alternator testers. I took two alternators I had here to have them checked. One from my '39 Chev; a 10SI, and a 2nd 12SI I tried on the '39 that appeared brand new. The 1st one was putting out a whopping 17.6 vdc at the battery! The 2nd one I bolted on to test, and it read 12.1 vdc running, and when I turned the engine off the voltage at the battery came up to 12.7 vdc.
But had both alternators checked at the local O'Reilly's and he said they both tested good. I asked him what his machine read for voltage, and he tells me it doesn't tell him. Asked if his machine would tell him if it's beyond normal spec, and he couldn't tell me if it would give an error if it was too high.
So I went ahead and gave him the old alternator, as it sounded a little noisy, and bought a new 10SI and installed it. Started up the car and it read 14.1 vdc, as I'd expect from a good alternator.
So I guess I'll have to trust my own meters, and forget about having things checked at the chain stores. My gauge in the dash is still 1 volt higher than my Fluke meter or my other two meters read, but since I know how far it's off I wont worry about that. All three of my hand held meters read exactly the same, so I know they're all correct.
 

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Ask a smart question to a stupid person...you will always get a stupid answer...and most time a stupid look......LOL...BOTH OF MY GO TO GUYS AT MY LOCAL NAPA QUIT AND WENT TO BETTER JOBS. NOW

IAM JUST STUCK WITH A REALLY STUPID OWNER TO DEAL WITH....HE IS A REAL DUMB ASS...YES i AM YELLING I AM PISSED........
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,423 ·
This ordeal involved 3 different chain stores. Started out at Autozone, where they told me their tester was broken down. Probably has been for who knows how long? They actually suggested O'Reilly's, which was funny, and one guy caught it and told me where the closest Autozone was.
Then on to the next, where the guy tells me he doesn't have the connector to plug into my alternator, and will have it in 5 days and can test it then. Then finally to the last store where of course, he wants make, model, year, etc. I told him any 10SI or 12SI is fine, but he tells me his machine wants exact data. Then once I told him to try a '75 Camaro, he pulls up the picture of a 63 a. 10SI, and I asked him to show me what all it's compatible with. His computer says every GM made from 1968-1985, including trucks, etc. So I asked if his machine is going to know which year my car was?
I like to mess with those guys sometimes, but this was getting old by then. So once his machine said mine was good, I told him to just give me that alternator, and gave him mine as a core. It's working fine now, so in the end all is OK.
 

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I do that all the time. When they ask what year of car, I always say 51 chevy then watch as they try to figure out how a V8 is in there and not the 6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,425 ·
Just got my UPS tracing number for the new pie crust slicks! Supposed to be here by next Wed.! Just in time to get them mounted on the '39 for the 4th of July car show up north near our daughter's house!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,426 ·
Mmmm! Garage smells like fresh pie! Crust slicks that is!



Got the notice they'd be delivered today, but of course I sat around waiting all day, and UPS didn't deliver until 7:00 p.m. tonight! Have an appointment to have them mounted and balanced first thing tomorrow!
 

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Super dooper. Love me some pie! Are you coming up to Gasser Mania on the 11th at Riverdale and break those puppies in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,429 ·
Got over this morning and got the slicks replaced. So good to go now. The new slicks on brand new casings are a big improvement! They took hardly no weight to balance them, so that's great!



 

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Discussion Starter · #1,431 ·
Man your car looks awesome!
Thanks Dave! It just looks like an old hotrod, which is exactly what I wanted. Not afraid to drive it anywhere, or worry about chips, etc. I've got so little invested into it monetarily that it's easy to not worry about it at all. And it's a joy to drive too!
 

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11th of what Mike? July, august, ?? Looked at Riverdale's calendar, but it shows nothing for any dates?
Their site is kind of difficult to get around on. July 10thy is In-liner day (open) and July 11th is Gasser Mania (open). We are headed down Sunday morning for the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,433 ·
Their site is kind of difficult to get around on. July 10thy is In-liner day (open) and July 11th is Gasser Mania (open). We are headed down Sunday morning for the day.
Any idea what the entry fees are for racing? I'm sure my '39 is heavy and not that fast, but might go just to see what kind of times it might turn?
I see no Billetproof in August, so a private car club is putting on the event instead. So they're upping the entry fee to $105 to race, and the entry for going to watch is what we used to pay to race now. Not sure I'll even go watch yet?
 

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Any idea what the entry fees are for racing? I'm sure my '39 is heavy and not that fast, but might go just to see what kind of times it might turn?
I see no Billetproof in August, so a private car club is putting on the event instead. So they're upping the entry fee to $105 to race, and the entry for going to watch is what we used to pay to race now. Not sure I'll even go watch yet?
For Gasser Mania it looks like $35 for the day to race, $10 for spectator. Gates open at 9am.
The Estranged Car Club from Portland is doing the three day race in August. Looks like Billitproof will be back in 2022. I put in my car for the Estranged race and haven't heard a word from them. So not planning on it, they are limiting car count to 130 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,435 ·
Sounds like Riverdale is running Gassermania themselves, and Estranged is renting the track for their deal. Guessing Estranged is trying to ensure they don't lose money on the rental, as I heard it was around $1,000 a day, and their event is listed as 3 days? So maybe it works out to $35 per day for the $105 total?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,437 ·
So they sent a pair and not just the one replacement????
They sent a pair because I paid for the 2nd tire, so they'd both be new and not recaps on old casings. I kept my one good rear slick as a spare, in case I ever need on on my Austin. So I have two brand new slicks, not recapped slicks. Plus Towel City doesn't offer slicks built on old tire casings anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,438 ·
Some days the simplest of projects just keeps throwing stumbling blocks in my way! I started out this morning with the plan to put a spacer between my water pump and the fan. Already had several to choose from, and the bolts to do the job. Easy job; maybe an hour I figured.
So pulled the fan off, and measured the distance from pulley to radiator. Had plenty to use my thickest spacer and still not hit the radiator. So put the spacer in and tried starting the bolts, but it's a huge PITA working between the radiator and the fan with 1" clearance. After fighting for an hour I got all 4 bolts started and run down. As I began to turn the fan to tighten each bolt I heard that metallic sound of the blade hitting metal! The automatic trans cooler fittings sticking out just enough farther that the fan hit them when tightened! So pull all the bolts, and grab the next shorter spacer that 1/2" less, and had to cut and shorten my bolts 1/2" also to not have a bunch of extra thread to screw in. A little easier to get to the bolts now, and got it on quicker. Tightened them just snug, and spun the fan to check clearance, and I hear another "tink"! Now the new location is just touching my polished stainless catch can! So I can see it's an easy fix; just tweak the brackets I made up to bolt it to the side mounts on the radiator. Bend the bottom fine, and it clears. But I figure I'll bend the top a little too, and the bracket snaps off the side of the radiator just as straight as if you cut it off!
So now I'm really getting irritated! Another "easy fix", but I have to build a new bracket and run it over to the 1/4" stud that my radiator surround, and fender bracket bolts to. So I make up a new aluminum bracket, drill the holes, and go to bolt it on. But the old bolt acts like it's cross threaded, or seized? I finally get it out, and toss it to parts unknown. Grab a new bolt, and hardware, and mount up the catch can. Hopefully the fan being closer will now be more efficient at moving air at idle.
Finally after I'm done my one hour estimate is off by about 2.5 hrs. as it took me 3.5 hrs. to do this simple task. Good thing I wasn't charging somebody for my time, as they'd think I was pretty worthless.

Did a little tuning also, as my wife went with me to our Wed. night cruise, and said, "This car is stinky." I knew it was rich, so tweaked the 4 corner idle mixture screws, and got the vacuum reading up to a whopping 11". Not a lot, but it's a big roller cam and that's 2" above where it was, so better. Also checked the timing and bumped it up from 4 degrees initial to 10 degrees. Still starts as easy as before, but should have a little more zip in the acceleration, and a little better mileage around town.
 

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Sounds like you had a rough bout with Hotrod syndrome. Lol. Good to hear your happy endings.
you da Mann Vall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,440 ·
We started our Wed. night drags-cruise in on July 7th. 1700+ cars there on the 7th for opening night! The two weeks since have been less with about 1000 or close to it each week! Last night was perfect weather with a little cooler temps around 80 degrees, and a great turnout.
Been driving the '39 the last 3 weeks there, and keep getting comments from guys saying things like "never seen this car around Portland before?". Funny, as I've not had that question/comment with any of my previous cars when i got them out for their first cruises at the Wedd. night event?
 
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