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Discussion Starter · #1,341 ·
Awesome...keep in mind before wet sanding that if the paint has a slight orange peel to it..like most do...when you wet sand it , it will leave smooth areas that will stick out like a sore thumb against the not wet sanded areas...so look at the areas you are not going to sand and only sand down to that like area.,..don't know if that makes since to you...or me...but just go light and easy...I am thinking that with almost 4 coats you have plenty of room for finish work...out side looks more like a true ford white...nice work
Thanks Lash! I'm hoping to attack some areas that have either a bug, of flecks of possibly dirt? They really stand out, and need to be knocked down. A friend mentioned using a new razor blade to cut these things off first, and then the wet sanding would take less time. Does that make sense to you?
 

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Only if the bug is on the surface would I do that...like the last coat of paint ..other wise just do a wet sand...it only shows a lot because YOU know it is there...most others will not see it...my pin stripe has a few booble's in it but others who have looked at it did not see them...you can always go back over thing at any time...easy to take off, but a bitch to put paint back on..because I had alot of clear to work with I used 600...1000...1500.. 2000...3000. and last 5000... and then compound..looks like freaking glass and I have not even waxed it yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,343 ·
Thanks. I'll keep to just wet sanding the high spots, and then buff it out with cutting compound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,344 ·
This cleanup, and paint finishing is gonna take forever! Can't believe with all the masking I did how much overspray got into the engine bay on the frame rails and front axle/springs. I cleaned with brake cleaner on a rag, and a Scotchbrite pad and cleaner on the frame rails and suspension. But once cleaned it still didn't look like before, so grabbed mu Rustoleum gloss black paint, and went to work with a brush repainting everything from the firewall forward.
Then spent some time cleaning up the red paint, and bare metal on the engine. Looks pretty good again, but wasted most of the morning. Have to go back at it tomorrow with the hood off, polishing, and cleaning some more. Temps are in the mid 80's, but supposed to drop back into the 70's next week, so maybe be able to do more cutting and buffing.
Have a list of 4 pinstripers I've gotten info for, so will call them next week also, and see what I can set up with one of them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,345 ·
Got my weatherstrip back around the doors this morning. Pulled it off to paint, and it's so inexpensive for the 3M self stick stuff that it wasn't worth saving and messing with gluing it back. Only $12 for 25' of it. I had masked off the trunk weatherstrip as it's wider, and easy to mask, so it didn't need replacement.
Masked off around my grille area and scuffed the grille and repainted it also with the Duplicolor graphite gray metallic. Had some overspray leak under my masking there and just figured it was quick and easier to paint it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,347 ·
I hope you don't get on a roll and paint the house and garage next!:rolleyes:
That was a selling point when we bought this house 32 years ago! All new aluminum siding that was powder coated, and never needed painting! I hate painting, but if I could spray paint the walls it might be OK?
 

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Hey Vall are your hands and arms starting to buzz from all that orbital work.............lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,349 ·
Hey Vall are your hands and arms starting to buzz from all that orbital work.............lol
Not yet, but I'm not sticking with it much. Plus my buffer is a random orbital, so not like those that simply spin. It doesn't seem to put out much vibration, but I keep it on lowest setting. My buddy's son told me to not go too fast or risk burning through the paint.
I do a couple hours, and then switch to details like touching up frame paint, or weatherstrip, etc. It's been so nice I should buff more, but when it's this warm I end up driving it instead of buffing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,352 ·
In the midst of working on the body and the paint work, I discovered a flaw in my upper shock mounts! The shocks are a single bayonet on the bottom, and tops are two bolts straight up. They are for a 2nd Gen Camaro/Nova, and when I installed them I added a reinforcing plate to the trunk floor pan. But when I went to reinstall my slicks I happened to look just at the right angle to see the trunk floor pan was cracking out! Can't see the trunk side as I built a removable box over the vent tube, and wiring to the fuel cell.
So had to stop the buffing yesterday and switch to fabrication. I wanted to make a crossmember to go side to side on the frame rails, but there's no straight route with shocks, exhaust, etc. that blocks any straight route. But the top mounting point is very close to the frame rails, so I decided to build two mounts; one per side. I also noticed 4 rivets on each frame rail that were just short stubs from where I'd removed a crossmember. So I ground those off smooth, and then drilled all 8 out to reveal the frame holes. I made the mounts bolt in using the 4 old 3/8" holes, and this way I avoided dropping my fuel cell, or chance welding around the frame paint, or finished car.
I made the new mounts out of 1/4" steel plate that wraps over the inside frame rail and offsets up 2.5" so I'm close to the stock shock length still. Might be an inch lower, but not enough to worry about. Spent 5 hrs. building and getting the frame ready yesterday, and bolting them on. Then painted them up, and called it a day. Today I reinstalled the shocks and reconnected everything. Then made up patch panels to go over the two mounting holes on each side, and tacked them in place too. Painted it all up, and reinstalled my "box" that covers everything.
A really tough job, but worked out well, and the mounting points are not going to break or fail again!
 

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Nice you caught that before it got to bad...sounds like it is good and strong now...but look at it this way you needed a break from paint work...it is very tedious type work..ask me how I know..........lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,354 ·
Nice you caught that before it got to bad...sounds like it is good and strong now...but look at it this way you needed a break from paint work...it is very tedious type work..ask me how I know..........lol
Yeah, I'll use any excuse to take a break from buffing! lol. I actually drove the car several times after I saw the cracks, as I figured they weren't that bad. But when I removed the cover inside the trunk I saw both sides were cracked, and I'm pretty sure the driver's side shock wasn't before. At least I didn't see it.
I ended up making some extra sealing plates around the vent tube hole, sending unit wires, and filler neck, while I was there. I have a large amount of the black flexible poly material I bought a couple years ago, so I made covers from that. I wanted tighter fits on those areas, but didn't want metal that could cause damage to anything penetrating the trunk pan. So the poly was a better solution. I cut it to fit snug, and then drilled holes to size. Then split the poly from one side to the holes so it could be worked over the various tubes and wires. Then just pop riveted the panels to the trunk pan. Worked out good, and was a simple fix that blends in well. It's all under the cover, and trunk mat, but now no smells can get into the trunk or car.
 
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