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Discussion Starter #1,221
Competition Orange and Yellow have always been 2 of my favorite colors. I don't think you can go wrong with either of these colors, especially on a gasser.
I'm still undecided as to whether the '39 will get lettered up, and done in some period gasser style lettering once it's painted. But if I do go that route I think the orange will be even better. If I don't it's still a period color that will match the build better.
 

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I would be in for a pastel, pearl, or creamy color no matter which color you choose. I am no expert on the matter but I don't think metal flake or 2 step clear coat would help the cause. I believe your mantra is what ever makes you happy. In my past projects I would look to a "hero" of the day and see what they did, such as Smokey Yunik (even though he was circle track but just an example of where I am going with this).
 

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+1 for the competition orange and lettered up. If you need help with mocking it up on the computer to get an idea of what it could look like DM me and I can help you with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,224
I would be in for a pastel, pearl, or creamy color no matter which color you choose. I am no expert on the matter but I don't think metal flake or 2 step clear coat would help the cause. I believe your mantra is what ever makes you happy. In my past projects I would look to a "hero" of the day and see what they did, such as Smokey Yunick (even though he was circle track but just an example of where I am going with this).
That's pretty much what I did when I chose the dark red mettalic on my Austin gasser. I always liked the metallic red Big John Mazmanian used on his gassers, along with the gold lettering. So that made me choose something similar.
Only pastel color I ever was OK with was Ohio George's pastel blue Willys gasser. Loved the car, and his winning ways, but wont ever use that color on any car I own. And definitely not a pearl, as pearls are way too new for traditional cars. I might consider tossing in some metallic, not metal flake, in the orange, just to spice it up a bit. Never been a metal flake guy myself, even though it seems to really be popular on clones I see guys building.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,226
Almost looks more like an extremely dark gray, than a black? I like the level of sheen on it a lot better than some of the flatter colors I see. Not sure it can ever get $30k?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,227
I've been attempting to bend my fiberglass trunk lid the last few days. I cut a couple 2x4's to 20" and stood them up inside the trunk. Then pulled the lid down so they sat against the sub structure, and put a ratchet strap across the trunk lid handle, and pulled down with the strap.
Not a lot of pressure at first as I wanted to see if it bent, and how much it needed. Left it set a couple days, and checked it yesterday. It had bent slightly, but not nearly enough. So cinched it down again, and a little more pressure on the strap. Giving it a couple more days, and maybe by tomorrow the curve will align with the trunk lid opening, and it wont need anymore work on it.
I also need to put some shims between the hinge bolt points on the body to lower that end of the hood, as it's maybe just under 1/8" high there also. Maybe a washer or two between hinge and body will lower it enough to get that edge perfect also.
 

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Couldn't stand it. The weather went back to gorgeous clear skies, and sunny mid 60's highs. So took the '39 out of the shop and went for a drive yesterday. Left it out overnight as today's the same, and our car club breakfast is this morning. Rains coming back tonight, so maybe our little reprieve is over after today?
 

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Hey Vall,
Here's a measurement I didn't think would be that close on your nose. I guess you thought of this already? Tank to the floor?
1939-chevrolet-coupe-gasser-hotrod-streetrod-project-5.jpg
 

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Since my frontend doesn't tilt, it doesn't apply Mario. But it does show how far out it would protrude, and I'm not a fan of that.
your front end doesn't tilt? do you know what this means? this means I haven't been paying near enough attention to your work. :)

 

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Discussion Starter #1,232
Nope. No tilt. The hood is removable, so I can run with or without. But fenders are steel, and bolted up solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,233
Got a pair of non period correct valve covers for the '39 Chev. Haven't been happy with the old finned covers, as they're just not that cool. And I found a pair of NOS B&M covers I really wanted, but at $550 on BIN Ebay, I passed.
I located these Brodix valve covers locally for a decent price NIB, so got them for the SBC.

 

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Nice...with the open sides on the 39 those will look real good...if the engine shows by all means dress it up...nothing wrong with mixing old and new...
 

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Discussion Starter #1,235
Nice...with the open sides on the 39 those will look real good...if the engine shows by all means dress it up...nothing wrong with mixing old and new...
I agree of course, although I've heard guys question the mixing of eras. A friend had these and finally decided they were too modern for his tastes. So I jumped on the cheaper price. I still have to drill holes for breather on one side, and PCV valve on the other. And figure out what to do to baffle the breather and not have screws show outside. I may bend up an aluminum baffle and have it tig welded inside to avoid screws. Or just buy Mr Gasket baffled grommets.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,236
Beginning to chip away at my winter projects on the '39. I pulled the valve covers off, and test fitted the new Brodix valve covers. Passenger side just cleared the firewall by 1/4"! Driver's side wouldn't go on at all! Had to remove the coil from the firewall, and then it just cleared the alternator, and slipped over the supplied studs. Once in place the coil can go back on as it's only in the way when sliding them in place. They do make the engine look slightly larger with their physical size, and height.





I also broke out the metal working tools and cut up some sheet metal fillers to weld into the old bumper openings. Ground everything smooth and tacked them in. Still need to hammer them into shape after welding, and give them a coat of filler. Discovered a small crack on the bottom edge of one fender also, so welded that up too.

Next I swapped out the shackles on my front axle springs. I've had these shackles sitting here forever, and wanted to install them to give a slight lift, and slightly more kingpin angle. They're 1.5" longer hole to hole, and have a tube brace welded between the shackles to make them one piece, and an H shape. Which makes them a little stronger also.
That turned out to be more of a task than I thought! One pair had the brace welded in crooked, so the holes didn't align! Couldn't get a bolt through the close fitting holes. I could have opened the holes up, but that didn't sound right. So I cut the tube brace out, put bolts in top and bottom, and welded the brace back in properly aligned. It went right in after that.
The 1.5" taller rear shackle raised the front almost 1", and changed the kingpin angle from 6 degrees, to 7.5 degrees. Should make it track even better, although it tracked fine before too.

Need to check valve lash before putting gaskets on, and finishing the valve covers. And need to see if I still have spare valve cover gaskets too!
 

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Wow what a list in a short time. Valve covers look cool. How in the world does someone weld the shackle crooked. No pride in the worker anymore. Must have been a 5 o’clock whistle shackle. Glad you got it sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,238
Wow what a list in a short time. Valve covers look cool. How in the world does someone weld the shackle crooked. No pride in the worker anymore. Must have been a 5 o’clock whistle shackle. Glad you got it sorted out.
I wondered the same Mario. They were new pieces I found at a swap meet. Appeared to have never been used, and now I know why! Quick cut with the band saw on one end was all it took. I stopped just shy of cutting clear through so it would help hold it while I put bolts through and rewelded it.

I've always bought inexpensive shackle sets at swap meets, and I keep finding projects to use them on!
 

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Got to ask were does the oil go in.....longer shackles...going up...2nd floor Gasser-ville....covers look great...adds some bulk to that engine
 

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Discussion Starter #1,240
Got to ask were does the oil go in.....longer shackles...going up...2nd floor Gasser-ville....covers look great...adds some bulk to that engine
If you read my earlier post I mentioned I have to drill a hole in each valve cover. One for a PCV valve, and another for a breather, where I'll fill oil also.
Longer shackles are now 4.25" between holes. Not really that long. My old ones were just that short.
 
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