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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Nothing really to report, but figured I'd start this here vs. keep posting on the swap meet thread. So here's the same images from the swap meet.











The seller delivered it late yesterday afternoon during another downpour of rain. So even assessing the car just wasn't any fun after getting soaked unloading it. And unloading proved to be a chore too!
First the seller trailer had a 3/4" plywood deck that was rotted, so one rear tire sunk into the deck creating a hole! Then as we rolled it off the front tire turned with no steering box. As I went up to turn it the other tire was pointed a different direction! That's when I looked underneath and noticed the tierods weren't connected! Independent front wheels didn't make steering it off the trailer very easy!
Finally got it off, and then with a guy on each front wheel we tried to push it into position and keep the wheels parallel. Wasn't easy, but got it done. Then I simply covered it up, and went inside to dry out.
But some really good news too! I never looked at the title, or asked what state it was from. But turned out to be a current Oregon clear title, and a matching vin tag he had inside the same envelope! So it wont even need a vehicle inspection like an out of state car would need! One less hassle, and expense for me!
Hopefully we'll get a break in the rain someday, and I can get all the parts out of the car, and get a closer look at what I'm up against with the rust repairs.
 

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Very Exciting. Love it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Vall these always look good with a slight dump to the front, kind of accents the fat front end on them
That's what I think too Lash! A lower front stance, but not too high in the back either.

Looking around at front suspension options has revealed that people tend to go for the 1st gen Camaros, or pre '74 Novas. Both rear steer subframes. The other choice is MII crossmembers and expensive systems, which run about $1200-$1500!!! I think I'll rule out the MII, unless I stumbled into something cheap.
The early subframes are getting harder to find, and prices going higher. So I might look at later front side steering Camaro-Nova subframes. Not sure why guys avoid them, as the front side steer have much better geometry, and factory disc brakes. Not a big fan of either subframe from a standpoint of their bulky size. But it does make engine locating a breeze, and makes a nice factory setup for parts if needed.
And I haven't ruled out a drop tube axle yet either. It could get the stance I want if I use fairly flat springs, and a 4"-6" drop tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That '38 is gorgeous! As you mentioned, slightly lower than I want to go, and not enough nose down stance for what I prefer. I'd raise it an in or two in front, and maybe 3" in the rear. Make it more driveable around town.
 

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Here's a '39 that belongs to a guy I know in my area. It's been pretty much as is for the last 40 years or so, although it was stored away and unseen for a number of years. I always thought it was sitting on a stock Mustang II crossmember and suspension but the pic looks like it has spring eyes showing. I just looked at it again last Friday but can't remember for sure. I always liked his licence plate and MANIAC is his HAMB screen name, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here's a '39 that belongs to a guy I know in my area. It's been pretty much as is for the last 40 years or so, although it was stored away and unseen for a number of years. I always thought it was sitting on a stock Mustang II crossmember and suspension but the pic looks like it has spring eyes showing. I just looked at it again last Friday but can't remember for sure. I always liked his licence plate and MANIAC is his HAMB screen name, too.
That's pretty much the stance, and appearance I'd like! Great looking car! I think you're right about seeing possibly spring eyes under the front fenders? Unless it's just the frame horns extended out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This is my old '40 Chevy coupe I sold to my friend back in around 1971 or '72? Of course it didn't look like this when I owned it. It was a gasser back then with a 413 Mopar wedge engine, and 727 trans. But Steve had it restored, and made into a street rod.
I like the stance, but not his choice of wheels and tires.

 

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nice looking rod. stance is great like you said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well it can officially start now. The Falcon sold today to the 2nd person who looked at it. Nice young couple who sold their '68 Mustang recently, and wanted an old school gasser. They drove several hours to come look at it, and both enjoyed the drive I took them on in it.
So now I can begin more serious searching for various parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ordered some 18 gauge sheet metal today for various repairs I'll need. 4'x8' sheet and had some cuts done that I know I always use for repairs. Had six 3"x 48" cuts, and two 5"x 48" cuts. $85 total. Another local supplier wanted $85 for the same sheet, but $10 a cut for the extra cuts! Ridiculous!

Nobody sells lower door skin patch panels, so I'll use the 3" to make those. The 5" will possibly be for any splicing I need to do between rockers and floor pan pieces. The floors come as 6 or 8 pcs. and no trans tunnels. I don't think I need any tunnel anyway, but will fabricate one if needed.
Can't locate a patch panel for the area between rear fender and rear door edge either. So some of the cuts will end up there too. I'm sure I'll be tired of cutting, grinding, and welding in no time!
 

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Vall the frame width from outer to outer rail is 33 inchs at the fire wall just before the body mount take 7 inchs from that for the inner width the frame rail at that point is 3-1/2 by 6 inchs Dia....I should let you know that the 98 up ranger frames are high strength hydro formed and are stressed.. so if you cut it from the mid section it will spring out of shape on you...not a good thing...my buddy that was just here had a 39 like yours that he raced here in the northwest..had a L88 427 with a muncie M22 and 4.88 ford 9 inch...said that the old top hat frame never gave him any problems and is more than good enough for big horse power and thought it would be a shame to cut it up for a graft...since disc drakes are very do able on the stock axle and a truck roll bar would be enough...he said that more than once he left the 3rd member on the ground at the starting line..and lost a few 1st gears in the muncie...the pic he showed me several months ago the stance was almost stock
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Your buddy's '39 was the standard business coupe if it had a dropped I beam axle. Mine is the Deluxe that had a backseat, and sliding 1/4 windows, so they didn't come with an I beam axle. They came with the knee action control arm suspension that was crap, even when new. So keeping an axle isn't in the mix, since it doesn't have one now.
I could put a later straight axle under it, but I'm not going the gasser route on this one, so not sure I can get the stance I want with a straight axle and parallel leaf springs. But I have considered it as a possibility. I'm still weighing options and deciding before I even begin to think about cutting and chopping.
 

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frame

I did not know there was a difference...so I looked it up....man that is some ugly ass front suspension and should be ripped off ASAP...even if it worked good what were they thinking... my old Plymouth had a knee action type front suspension on and it worked great but a different design by 1951 ..considering the era when it was produced...well it did till I over sprung it.....lol....some others that are being cut up for grafts are the Vic's... Dakotas...Couriers...alot out there to consider...but hey that is the fun part...before the knuckles get bruised and the hands dirty...and making The dollars stretch...here is some good pics of a T/A frame front section...https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/d/blaine-1979-pontiac-trans-am-camaro-hot/6866638025.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Pretty familiar with the 2nd gen Camaro and Firebird since I had a Camaro for over 40 years. They just look too big and heavy for me. Not sure what I'll end up with, but I know MII kits are more than I want to spend.
I may still end up putting a drop I beam axle under it, but with flat springs to keep the height down. And go with a solid rear axle in the 9" that's in it, or my 8.8" spare. Lots of time, and lots of ideas!
 
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