If you haven't already, I'd look on the web for all the pictures I can find of similar cars and decide what details you like and want to use on yours and what you think doesn't work. Once you can picture what you want,in your head, then tear into it.
good idea I have been looking at pictures for the last 3 weeks one possible path would be to remove the rear side windows and and make it a delivery panel truck
then use those windows on the cabin of my wooden boat project
I am also toying with the idea of using a shortened t bucket frame for a chassis
but right now I need to get it out of the florida weather I have a cover on it but I need to try and make some room inside somehow
i really dont know what I have here I havent had time to look it over yet
I love your choice of gasser project. Listen to the advice from the senior members here. They are awesome motivators and great build experience. Definitely do what Gary suggested. Look at pics and vision your own before you tear into it.
Wish you the best with it. Wish I could have done that one instead of my MG.
When looking at pictures, don't forget to look at other similar 50's panels and wagons. The Thames panels and wagons are quite similar and are popular rod projects too. Panels are very cool, but don't forget your seating will be back further with a V8 swap, and it may be like driving in a tunnel with the side covered, and your seat farther back. I'd cover the windows with paper first, and sit in it. Then decide if that's what you can work with.
I have been watching his Hillman build with the hemi, but for some reason stopped getting updates. Need to go back and see if I can find it again. Don't go there often, but it is one of a few builds I do like to watch.
Pretty sure Speedway does special widths now, if that's the route you want to go. When I did my Austin Speedway didn't do special widths, so I ordered the narrowest tube they had and cut another 6"-7" out of the middle. I simply laid the axle on two pieces of angle iron about 2' long. Welded the angle to the tube, and then cut the section out. Found a 12" long piece of solid round bar that just fit inside, and pressed it into each tube half. The angle iron ensured the two kingpins stayed in alignment while I narrowed and welded it back together. I drilled 4 holes in each half to plug weld, and then left a 3/8" gap in the middle to weld together and fill. Then ground it smooth, and cut the angle iron off. My axle is about 36" kingpin to kingpin.
I've seen I beam style axles also cut down, and in hindsight I wish I had gone that route instead. I was leery of cutting down an I beam then, but after seeing how it's done, and how well it works, I'd do it. The correctly narrowed I beam axles use a Z cut to make sure the weld surface has a lot more area, and is plenty strong. With about a 6"-8" Z cut, the axle will work just fine when narrowed and welded. Here's an example of a Z cut and weld:
Well I have been slowly working to get the rust under control and patch up holes and bad repairs and eventually paint the car satin black but the most important thing I have done is come up with what I believe is an original name for the car
On the front fender where the class would normally be painted I am going to paint
"1/2 Fast" in small letters
And in large goldleaf letters will be the name
that's it for the up date for now
"this car has a 49" track width any ideas on a good place to get a front gasser axle? "
OK, here's an idea which you won't like much, but will work for you and has a bit of "history" to help make it legit for a classic vintage style Gasser; AND we doing it on the MGA Gasser that we've just started, so you've have a partner in crime who'll have your back when the H.A.M.B. gang find out about it . . .
If all else fails and you just cant come up with a front tube axle that suits your needs, opt for the torsion tube front end out of an old VW Beetle:
The stock track width for the early Beetle is just 51 inches while narrowed front beams are available in the aftermarket in any length. They're VERY easy to narrow "at home" if you want, but at 51 inches, you can probably deal with the wheel off-set for a perfect fit on the Hillman.
Massively strong units, the one in the tiny Bug Eye pictured is supporting a 396 Chevy mill, you can almost use any engine that you like other than a Hemi. Plus you can install raised or lowered spindles or "beam adjusters" to set your ride height. We using a "raised" beam and setting the mount at a lower level to achieve the classic raised nose bleed" Gasser stance that we want for the MGA.
The VW beam mounts are available from any Sand Rail Buggy supplier and are an easy weld on proposition, we going a bit low-buck on the MGA and are using a cutoff and welded on stock VW frame head as an option. Only because we had on on hand.
The stock disk brake calipers, rotors, and spindles scan be had from the Karmann Ghia and bolt right on, or a Karmann Ghia front beam assembly can be substituted if you want. Same as the Beetle except for the brakes.
Anyway, just a thought for you. Easy and cheap option with a history that can't be beat. If you want any help with this or links for any necessary components, just get in touch. Our ideas are often a bit off-center mainly 'cause we're always on a budget.