Gasser HotRod Forums banner
61 - 80 of 91 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,700 Posts
Not sure how they'd change the center to center points of the shackle, or make the springs work any better than straight flat bar for a gasser? And I don't think you'll have issues with shackles inverting if the angle is set right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Howdy and welcome to this forum………… Just came across this thread have not been a regular on the forum n have missed this ……. I like this little badass coupe with a haircut great build n metal work. I also am from Texas about 500 miles to the south of San Antonio in the RGV. Those helicopters from different departments r a pain in the ass. Will need to go to HEB curve service n get some popcorn n beer n enjoy some updates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I took 1 leaf out, the smallest one and seemed to make a lot of difference in stiffness and brought it down some. I also found some YJ Jeep factory front shackles I had in my scrap brackets box.. may try those with some 1/2" bolts.. not sure though.
I will set the engine in the frame hopefully sometime this week. The engine mounts came without the frame brackets, so I just made some out of scrap brackets I had.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,700 Posts
Look plenty stout. I buy those old big long shackles they sold in the 70's, and still sell. Find them in good shape at swap meets usually for $3-$5 a set, and they have 3 holes on one end, and single hole on the other. I cut them in half and use the 3 hole end for one pair of springs, and drill another hole in the other half for the second set. One for the front axle springs, and one for the rear springs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
Well after staring at the bootlid aka. trunk lid this morning. Bottom section is rusted out which is a common problem.
I'm going to attempt a scratch repair.. because repair patch panel cost + shipping from the UK is not realistic. Cost $62 + $90 shipping and no guarantee I'll even receive the part. Lol. I hate ordering international, bad experience. And a reproduction lid from Minor Mania out of Nevada is a $1000.. ridiculous, that's more than I paid for the entire shell.
To me it looks like it will be a complicated repair, but we shall see 👀🙏.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,700 Posts
Looking at the image of the trunk lid, it almost appears the lowest part is solid. Like the rusted out part is higher up? So might be able to cut a strip wide enough to span the rusted area, down to the bottom edge, and then weld that in. Maybe not even have to wrap it over the edge if the bottom edge is good enough. Just do a tack bead all along the bottom edge until it's all welded solid, and then grind it smooth.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
But the thicker gauge lip around the bottom still seems like good metal. Think I may be able to cut rust out leaving the lip and patch skin and remake inner support as close as I can get it.. is that what you were saying? Now that I've got it up on the work bench it doesn't look as scary as I thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
Does this look goofy.. I promise y'all will not hurt my feelings.. any feedback is greatly appreciated..
So back story, there was a lot of rust I cut out of fender wheel well area.. and I don't know if I like the wheel opening gap around the tire so I've been playing with ideas.. I'm visual so I have to see it and it can be modified narrower. It's about close to factory width from what I remember. Maybe a tad wider.


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Synthetic rubber

Wheel Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire

Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive lighting


Don't mind my welds.. lol this metal is very thin and I'm blowing through on lowest setting so I have to build weld up then grind smooth. Rear fender and body will look like one continuous piece when done.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,700 Posts
Not sure about "goofy", but it doesn't look right with the lower being further out than the top of the fender arch. Should either have the same tread reveal all along, or if anything the leading and trailing edges in more than the top.

Looks like your trunk lid isn't bad. I'd weld in all the new inner structure first, and since I can't hammer out a bunch of odd shapes at once, I often do these repairs in 5 or 6 pieces if they have a bunch f odd shapes like your inner structure has. I think once the inside is solid, the outside should be able to do with one piece, with just a little massaging and welding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,665 Posts
I got to agree with Vall on the wheel wells...I would wait till you get the wheels where you want them...but with that much welding already done I am thinking you are going to go with it...get a bag of 60lb sand break out the hammer and dolly and go to town on the boot cover repair
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Yeah after looking at it for days, it doesn't look right to me either. The 1/4 round stock is going to get welded to the lip anyhow.
I'll just remove the rectangular section at the bottom & continue the round stock along the lip. Like I said I'm visual so I'll do thing where they are not too permanent in places I'm no sure of, that way I can go back and change it.. Thanks guys for the feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 ·
The 1/4" round stock is a great way to shape the edge, and also a great way to finish off the lip too. I used it on my Austin's rear fender radius, and my '39 Chev too.
Yes I have used this method a few times in builds and works great and gives a nice finished edge while also giving it strength.
So I'm taking y'all's advice I knew it really didn't look correct just needed a second opinion my dad also said it looked off.
So brings me to another question he brought up. While doing a burnout and at the top end of the track the rear slick will get taller. How much of a gap should I leave to account for that, so tire has no chance of contacting fender? I can raise body up a little if need be through ride height adjustment on coil over shocks. But what would be a good start point as I don't want a lot of gap.. thanks again for everyones help.
 
61 - 80 of 91 Posts
Top