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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
So I was reading an article that said that I could set the shackle angle without the weight of engine and transmission. It said I could set the shackle just off vertical and when weight of engine / transmission are added it would put me close where it needs to be. Is this true? I always thought you had set shackle angle with entire weight of vehicle including driver. Just curious because I still need to fab engine / trans mounts brackets.
 

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So I was reading an article that said that I could set the shackle angle without the weight of engine and transmission. It said I could set the shackle just off vertical and when weight of engine / transmission are added it would put me close where it needs to be. Is this true? I always thought you had set shackle angle with entire weight of vehicle including driver. Just curious because I still need to fab engine / trans mounts brackets.
After you've done a few straight axle installations you can pretty much guess the angle needed before weight, and get close enough. In most cases just past vertical will put you close enough, but if there's any doubt I simply put some 4x4's across the frame rails and set my engine on top of that to test it before welding things solid.
If the shackles are a little too vertical it's way better than too much angle. So error that direction vs. starting with too much angle.

On your extra holes in your wheels. I'd not use baby moons myself, as I think they'll change the whole look of a gasser. I'd get chrome snap in caps and put them into the 5 unused holes. Most have spring clips on them, and I'd bend those over once you snap them in to ensure they stay in place well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
After you've done a few straight axle installations you can pretty much guess the angle needed before weight, and get close enough. In most cases just past vertical will put you close enough, but if there's any doubt I simply put some 4x4's across the frame rails and set my engine on top of that to test it before welding things solid.
If the shackles are a little too vertical it's way better than too much angle. So error that direction vs. starting with too much angle.

On your extra holes in your wheels. I'd not use baby moons myself, as I think they'll change the whole look of a gasser. I'd get chrome snap in caps and put them into the 5 unused holes. Most have spring clips on them, and I'd bend those over once you snap them in to ensure they stay in place well.
Yes I completely agree. Every article I've read on gasser front parallel leaf suspension are mainly on real Drag Strip cars and they say the same thing.
To set shackles just off vertical with no engine weight and that will get you very close or on point. Also most of those guys are running 10-12° positive caster too.. That much caster helps, if you were to get squirrelly on the track it wants to straighten back up and I also understand it doesn't help at all in turns but this is mainly a race car. My main concern is having them reverse when tires are lifted off the ground in a wheelie.. so I'll add the weight of the brake rotors, calipers and steering and see how much more droop I have which I think will not be much.. really appreciate all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
So this is a guesstimate.. because my wheels have not come in yet.. but I have spindle centered off the ground around ride height with a imaginary 28" tire. And there is no engine weight in the chassis yet. The very most front part of rocker is 18" off the ground and rear part of the rocker is 13.5" off the ground at ride height. I would like the front to come down about 3".. so with BBC engine weight and maybe removing a leaf I'm hoping to accomplish that.. The diy engine mount kit should be here the 21st and I'm going to get engine tacked in the frame with 1/4" metal bar bolted to front engine plate mounting holes probably tomorrow. It will have a rear engine plate between trans bell housing and engine.

Found these on Amazon open box deal brand new everything is there just damaged original packaging.. I paid $39.

Arm Bicycle part Font Automotive wheel system Auto part


This is where the Hotrod sits now. Tomorrow I hope to have weight of the engine sitting in the chassis.
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Car Wheel Vehicle Tire Automotive tire


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Tire Car Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle


Just a reminder rear wheels and tires are rollers and for mock up. The wheels are the wrong offset. I only want about 2.5-3" of tire sticking past the fender.
 

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I really doubt the shackles would ever reverse doing a wheelie, and fold back. Likely they'd simply return as the front tires hit the track, and continue forward. The 10 degrees will be a much better kingpin angle for a short wheelbase car like your Morris. I also am running 10 degrees on my Austin, and it does affect how sharp I turn it while backing up, as it wants to scrub the tires when backing up if I turn too tightly. But going forward the car turns easily, and I can let go of the steering wheel at 100 mph, and it tracks very straight.
On a longer wheelbase I wouldn't go 10 degrees, unless it too was a strip only car. I run 7 degrees on my '39, but it's 25" longer wheelbase than my Austin. I ran 6 degrees on my '63 Falcon gasser, and it drove great street or strip. It was 115" wheelbase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
On your extra holes in your wheels. I'd not use baby moons myself, as I think they'll change the whole look of a gasser. I'd get chrome snap in caps and put them into the 5 unused holes. Most have spring clips on them, and I'd bend those over once you snap them in to ensure they stay in place well.
I really like this idea! I didn't really want to use baby moons.. I'll have to see where I can source some chrome caps.. Thanks again for all your help & ideas 💡.

Found them!

 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
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Engine mock up bars.. I may utilize them for front engine plate.. they are not finished.. it's scrap roll bar tubing and 1/4" plate. I still need to box in the tubing at engine side mount. It would be nice if I can figure out how to bolt them to the frame with a 3x3" square 1/4" plate on frame side.

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I need to repaint the engine, it got beat up moving it around.
 

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If I remove a front leaf spring, which one should I remove first? It's a six pack spring.
I usually remove the shortest, but it does the least to change ride feel, so you'll probably be best to remove the two shortest. May even need to remove 3 if two still rides rough. I also use the leafs I remove as spacers if I run out of U bolt threads when they're out. Just cut them about 4"-5" long and put them back together with the spring packs as spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Okay that sounds like the plan.. it's a big block but aluminum heads and intake.. so I don't think it'll be that heavy.. with my dad and I sitting on the frame we can't bounce it.. lol 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Has anyone tried running boomerang shackles in the front. I know in the off-road world and going back to my rock crawler days with leaf sprung Jeeps they used them for more articulation and to avoid shackle from inverting and bending a soft flexible leaf spring.
Reason I ask is that it seems it would work very well on a Gasser. You can run a softer spring so on a hard launch you can get more front end rise before front wheels leave the ground during weight transfer. Because I know on a rock crawler the whole point is to keep all tires connected to the ground softer spring equals more droop more articulation.. What are y'all's thoughts?
I under stand the stance of the gasser is for weight transfer but you get very little rise out of the front before front wheels come off the ground with stiff springs.
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