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That's a really nice, clean car! Looking forward to seeing the progress. Are you planning to stub the frame, and do a straight axle, or put it under the existing frame rails?
Posts by 1937Austin
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My Austin gasser has over 15,000 miles on it in the last decade and uses heim ends on all the tie rod and drag link ends, and drives wonderful. My '39 Chev also uses heim ends everywhere, and has over 8,000 miles in the last year with several long trips, and drives great.
Every car I've built for my own use, or for others has had heim ends on the axle, and never an issue. The key is decent quality heim ends, and nothing more. If they're decent quality they will hold up fine.
Which converter you use depends on what cam you choose, so you'll need to decide on all the engine specs first, including heads and camshaft, before choosing the converter stall speed. For an engine like a BBC 454 that's not going to get high compression, or high flowing aftermarket heads, I'd stick with a cam that has plenty of lift, but not long duration, or too narrow an LSA. I'd not go less than a 109-110 LSA for a car that's going to be a good street driver.
If you can step up to a roller camshaft I would certainly do so. The number of cam and lifter failures with flat tappet cams in recent years leaves me worried about whether any of them can be trusted to be good quality, even with proper high zinc oil.
Might call Howard's cams and ask them about the #CL128001-09 if you go flat tappet, or 118045-09 for a roller cam. Both are good cams that operate in the 2000 rpm-5900 rpm range, and will work with a milder build.
Every car I've built for my own use, or for others has had heim ends on the axle, and never an issue. The key is decent quality heim ends, and nothing more. If they're decent quality they will hold up fine.
Which converter you use depends on what cam you choose, so you'll need to decide on all the engine specs first, including heads and camshaft, before choosing the converter stall speed. For an engine like a BBC 454 that's not going to get high compression, or high flowing aftermarket heads, I'd stick with a cam that has plenty of lift, but not long duration, or too narrow an LSA. I'd not go less than a 109-110 LSA for a car that's going to be a good street driver.
If you can step up to a roller camshaft I would certainly do so. The number of cam and lifter failures with flat tappet cams in recent years leaves me worried about whether any of them can be trusted to be good quality, even with proper high zinc oil.
Might call Howard's cams and ask them about the #CL128001-09 if you go flat tappet, or 118045-09 for a roller cam. Both are good cams that operate in the 2000 rpm-5900 rpm range, and will work with a milder build.
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I understand the hesitance to cut the rear radius, but honestly think you'll have to decide between too high a stance, narrowing the rear axle and major tubbing work, or just doing the radius. My choice would be as Steve did and radius the wheelwells, and keep the stance down.
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As far as which end of the springs the shackles should be, it depends on which side of the axle you plan to locate your steering box and drag link. I try to not have my cross steering pushing or pulling on the same side as the shackles, so it's not deflecting from shackle flex sideways. So if my steering box is behind the axle I put the shackles in the front, or vice versa.
I hope your decision to go 2" narrower on each side with your 54" axle width doesn't result in issues. With fenderwell headers it may put the tires too close to the collectors, and have contact when turning, or hitting bumps while turning. The other concern is the car taking on the look of a old tractor with too narrow stance up front. I usually go wider, not narrower, when the stance is higher than stock.
I hope your decision to go 2" narrower on each side with your 54" axle width doesn't result in issues. With fenderwell headers it may put the tires too close to the collectors, and have contact when turning, or hitting bumps while turning. The other concern is the car taking on the look of a old tractor with too narrow stance up front. I usually go wider, not narrower, when the stance is higher than stock.
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Probably not worth sending the axle back if it works out to be too narrow as shipping on a package that long would likely be almost as much as the axle costs. Better to sell it at a loss than return it.
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You just need to cut the front shackle mount loose and move it forward enough to ensure the shackle doesn't flop over under load. The 35 degrees is fine, but not necessary. Anything from straight up to slightly past that point works fine, and will also avoid this flop over. Looks like your mount needs to move about 2" forward to avoid this.
Longer shackles aren't the fix for this, as longer shackles will result in changing caster, and you wont have the correct 7 degrees angle. It will also make the steering sketchy as the longer the shackles are, the more the shackles can deflect side to side when cornering, or turning. Best to move the mount.
Longer shackles aren't the fix for this, as longer shackles will result in changing caster, and you wont have the correct 7 degrees angle. It will also make the steering sketchy as the longer the shackles are, the more the shackles can deflect side to side when cornering, or turning. Best to move the mount.
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