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1935 Chevy Gasser

54675 Views 665 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  1937Austin
1935 Chevy Standard Series Coupe.

This is a project that is a work in progress. Became road worthy 2010. Project took from 2002 to 2010 to get on the road.

Hanging saturday night with another gasser buddy.

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Yeah you’re right. I was looking at the glass 1/2 empty. I’m happy with the glass 1/2 full now.
Beautiful chevy you got there Mario. I bet she's a blast out on the street!
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I Love, love, love that color! such a cool car. Kinda makes me want to get an oldie like that.... HHHMMMM.
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Thanks guys. It’s a rigid ride all dressed up with no place to go. Lol
9-7 to 1 compression doesn’t need a parachute. Unless there is boost.
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Thanks guys. It’s a rigid ride all dressed up with no place to go. Lol
9-7 to 1 compression doesn’t need a parachute. Unless there is boost.
I put mine on in case I ever ran 1/4 mile. But I've only run 1/8th mile and never needed to pull it.
Last year I bought the MT valve covers. I had a slightly used reusable blue Felpro with steel reinforcement and ribbed to stop oil leaks valve cover gaskets to install the new Mickey T’s. I used RTV black to insure the seal. I like the height of the blue gaskets for more clearance. Well bottom right cover at the back of the block had a leak bad enough to leave a 5” glossy spot under the car Which I saw as I walked around the garage today. The RTV black wouldn’t let go of the valve cover. The studs made it more difficult limiting the movement, Because they did not have slot or Allen head to unscrew them. Took me like 20 min of pry-bar and scraper cut action all around with no access on the intake side. finally got it off. Cleaned it all up and took a rubber Felpro gasket Which I spray glued this time. I sprayed the valve cover too. Placed it down and rammed it all home. I’m gonna let it sit overnight before I start it to check For leaks.
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I take it your studs don't have an allen socket head to allow you to remove them easily Mario? Might be worthwhile to see if your local hardware store has any and swap them out for next time. Mine have allen heads and I've had to remove them to get valve covers off before too.
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Mario, have you ever tried "Right Stuff" sealant from Permatex? It comes in black, quick setting, and gray, longer setting time. It's a bit more expensive than the regular but it works!!
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I take it your studs don't have an allen socket head to allow you to remove them easily Mario? Might be worthwhile to see if your local hardware store has any and swap them out for next time. Mine have allen heads and I've had to remove them to get valve covers off before too.
Good idea Vall. Next time I go to the store I’ll buy a set.
Mario, have you ever tried "Right Stuff" sealant from Permatex? It comes in black, quick setting, and gray, longer setting time. It's a bit more expensive than the regular but it works!!
I’ll check that stuff out. Thanks Steve. Permatex black is normally a sure thing so I don’t know what happened with that corner leak. If what I did leaks again I will order that stuff.
Great looking car, that is one nice looking body style, the grill in them makes the car I think. The Right Stuff is good stuff but you'll need a 4 ft pry bar to get them off. That's one thing I liked about the BBC after market heads that were machined flat and raised where the VC goes on. I guess they do the same on the SBC too. I hate oil leaks and header leaks.
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My Edelbrock VJ heads are machined flat too. I’m gonna take Valls advice and buy Allen head 1/4 in studs. Go figure I couldn’t get the valve cover off but I had a corner seepage. Crazy.
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My Edelbrock VJ heads are machined flat too. I’m gonna take Valls advice and buy Allen head 1/4 in studs. Go figure I couldn’t get the valve cover off but I had a corner seepage. Crazy.
Valve cover studs are great especially if your using spacers like i needed to use. I got these studs and nuts off of boltdepot.com for pretty cheap they have the allen head to run them in.
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Great looking car, that is one nice looking body style, the grill in them makes the car I think. The Right Stuff is good stuff but you'll need a 4 ft pry bar to get them off. That's one thing I liked about the BBC after market heads that were machined flat and raised where the VC goes on. I guess they do the same on the SBC too. I hate oil leaks and header leaks.
I think all the good quality aftermarket aluminum heads have this feature. My Dart SHP heads are done the same.


With my Brodix valve covers not having a lip around the perimeter they use very long studs to clamp them down, and seal really well. I've even taken them off to readjust valves and not changed gaskets, and still no leaks.
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Well I placed my order on my one and only site. Amazon. I went with 2” so if I need to cut back for clearance I can.
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EXHAUST MODIFICATION
I've been feeling terrible physically so I wanted to get moving out in the garage and I thought of this real fun modification to my exhaust. Removable Street inserts to switch to race inserts for our local drag strip.
I use the car for cruise nights and now that I have a drag strip nearby I will be attending some occasional race days. The track requirement of mufflers is a must. When I raced last year I was told by a track official that I had sparks coming out of my collectors as I was racing. Gave it some thought and I realized that the steel wool in the insert was burning out under full throttle. Makes sense right? So wouldn't it be great if I could swap out the inserts to race style instead of trying to pound my silencer inserts.
Being I use side swept headers with long collectors outside the frame, its hard to set up a street pipe with a T under the car without it looking gaudy. My collectors have removable Car Chemistry 3 disk inserts with some steel wool wrapping inside and they take the obnoxious out of the sound and still sounds real cool. But this is still too loud for my neighbors in the early rise "cars and coffee"meets at the Oak Beach inn. So I came up with an idea, to use another insert with center caps on both sides of the inner tube to cut back the sound for the early morning startups. I also remembered my son never used the 3 inch inserts we bought for his Camaro which he sold. So I ran upstairs to my spare parts attic and found the 2 new boxes of inserts. I opened it took one out and man did it look small compared to my current insert. Then I realized my collectors are 3-1/2 inch. Shoot. Now i have to spend money to do it. Thought I had a good plan. I called Car Chemistry to see if they can help with a cut rate exchange returning the 3 inch for 3-1/2 inch. Was a little late on a Saturday so I left a message. Well I was foiled for this weekend.
Ps: if anyone needs to buy a set of these lets make it a worthwhile deal. I hope the manufacturer will help me out which I can't expect at this point. They have a 30 day return with 15% restocking fee, but Im a about 10 years out on these. I'm thinking maybe 40 bucks each plus ship to anyone who wants these.

$57.99

Car Chemistry Exhaust Inserts


Exhaust Insert, 3-Disc Inserts, 7 in. Long, 3 in. Diameter, Steel, Each
See More Specifications | Check the Fit



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That's a great price Mario, hope one of the members realizes it and grabs them. I've got the 3" in my Willys headers and the 3 1/2" in the 53 headers and love them.
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Great idea to have a quiet, loud and open header option. I bet it would make it nice on long drives to pop in the capped off set and then when you get into town switch them out. Interested to hear the tone difference
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That's a great price Mario, hope one of the members realizes it and grabs them. I've got the 3" in my Willys headers and the 3 1/2" in the 53 headers and love them.
Did youi wrap them with the steel wool and screens with the kit they sell or did you use them as is out of the box?
Great idea to have a quiet, loud and open header option. I bet it would make it nice on long drives to pop in the capped off set and then when you get into town switch them out. Interested to hear the tone difference
yeah I would like to hear them too. I have ideas on the street version. They actually sell the 2 disk which is more for drags. I may spring for that one. See how they treat the return.
Oh by the way, I don't think I will be making long drives in that bone shaker. Oh gotta go, Im late for my chiropractor visit. LOL
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