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Discussion Starter · #601 ·
Well my new alternator came in today so I thought why not put it on. It’s easy right? I had to go under the car to loosen the adjustment Bolt. Then topside I took out the pivot bolt and tried to pull out the unit. Wouldn’t come out topside. The unit slipped out of my fingers and dropped to the floor. First thing I thought of was my moroso pulley. Thank god it didn’t break. Lined both units on the bench and The new one was all American standard. The old one was metric. I should be happy right? I hunted down all the hardware at the back and the adjustment bolt. Swapped out the pulleys. Put the top pivot bolt in and I couldn’t start the adjustment bolt. At first I wanted to take off the bracket and open up the holes and widen the adjustment slot. The stubborn in me said screw it just take the top pivot off and start the bottom bolt and the top one will thread in with my ratchet. What a pain in the arse. Got the belt on and got back under the car and used a pry bar to adjust and tighten the bolt. easypeasy right? Good god yalllll. Started the car and got exactly 15 volts like the dyno sheet said.
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Discussion Starter · #602 ·
I then took this for your listening pleasure.

 

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Have you put a voltmeter on the alternator to see how accurate your gauge is? 15v. seems a tad high, but it might just be the gauge. Mine reads almost 15v. but when I put my meter on it it's actually 14.4v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #604 ·
Paper
Have you put a voltmeter on the alternator to see how accurate your gauge is? 15v. seems a tad high, but it might just be the gauge. Mine reads almost 15v. but when I put my meter on it it's actually 14.4v.
paper work that came with the unit spec‘d at 15 volts. So I have to think the gauge is accurate. Next time I go out there I will check at the battery Just to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #605 ·
Oh by the way. I can’t shut the car off now from the key anymore. So this is next.
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Discussion Starter · #607 · (Edited)
Well I got the diode from my stash and cut it in just like the diagram on the smaller wire and now she shuts down with the key. I did notice something different after installing the diode. Now my gauge reads 14-14+ which was 15 yesterday. I put the meter on the battery like Vall mentioned. I got exactly what the gauge said. 14.3. That’s a good thing but it makes me wonder what the diode did to change that. Anyway on to the next thing.
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Discussion Starter · #608 ·
I picked up a test set of lifters and rockers to check the roller cam valve clearance. I also installed the cam at the recommended 4 degrees advanced. Put both rocker arms on. Gave the crank a spin with the ratchet. Exhaust valve cleared and then the intake started to open and then like a brick wall it stopped. So looks like I either change pistons out or go back to the stock style 202 heads And try the roller again. if the roller don’t work then back to the Crower 540 Lift. Testing to be continued.
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Discussion Starter · #609 ·
Waiting on the engine build to decide which fork in the road I should take.


meanwhile I thought I would pull my MT slicks out of storage and put them on my torque thrust wheels I bought about 14 years ago. So I drag my tired self out there and clear some room in the garage to use the tire machine. I installed the tire valve and then put the tire on the rim then I inflated it and I felt something hit me in the face after I pop the beads. I take a closer look and there’s a leak coming through the drag slick surface and it’s a tiny tiny pinhole so I sprayed it with water and Shernoff that’s what it was. I grabbed my cutting pliers and dug in and pulled it out and it was a stinking tiny piece of sheet metal cutting or filing from a grinding tool that hit embedded into the slick and I never saw it when I bought them so that must’ve been leaking when the guy I bought them from had them. Nobody has a conscience When they think they’ll never see you again.
Now I am torn about putting a tube in there with a patch over the tiny puncture just so that the tube doesn’t get compromised in anyway.The other shame is I have to drill out the valve stem hole now I have to make it 5/8 to make the tube stem fit it which I was trying not to do.

I’m gonna have to call Mickey Thompson and ask them what they think I mean it’s a really really tiny puncture I would never plug it because I would have to put a big hole in it to make the plug go In. That’s how tiny this is. I don’t trust that idea but I did patch it so that the Tube can rest on it and not be hurt in any manner. Just not 100%Sure that I should do that. Lots of chatter on the Internet about using plugs and patches in slicks and not being a problem but you know I just don’t know what to do at this point. The real shame of it all is that the slicks are brand new they were on a car rolling around in the garage obviously on sharp metal filings but they don’t even have the nibs worn off on them that’s what I’m so sad about. They were never burned out yet. God knows whether or not the other tire has a Air leak too.





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I'd just do a vulcanized tire patch on it Mario. My dad did them all the time, and showed me how to do them. I've patched a bunch of tires the local tire store said they weren't allowed to patch. I just have him dismount them, and I do the patch at home, and then take it back for him to mount it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #611 ·
I'd just do a vulcanized tire patch on it Mario. My dad did them all the time, and showed me how to do them. I've patched a bunch of tires the local tire store said they weren't allowed to patch. I just have him dismount them, and I do the patch at home, and then take it back for him to mount it up.
I just got off the phone with Mickey T. They said that a patch will work fine but they cannot recommend doing it. So I think I’m good. Just gotta wait till Amazon delivers Saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #612 · (Edited)
I did try a patch from Auto Zone and was not successful. It had one tiny bubble every 10 seconds which is still a leak. While it was still inflated I decided to just try it on the car before I break it down again to put a tube in the slick. I put it on and my heart broke because it touches the front of the fender 33 inches is way too long in diameter. Oh well I guess dreams can just go away as you wake up in life so my only resolve will be is to shift the rear back with the ladder bars half an inch minimum and I don’t know if it’s worth all that trouble to use the slicks I got a good deal on. God help me if the other one leaks too. Well either way I still have a tube to put in the rim on both but it’s just disappointing. Especially that they look so good on the car. I’ve never owned slicks like these before or use them so I was anticipating getting the benefit of traction. When I bought these slicks I had a 557 gear ratio and I figured they would only help the gear in the quarter mile because I was running out of rpm at the end of the run. But now I have 456 and I could probably go down to 30” slicks. But right now I don’t don’t wanna spend the money because there’s so many things happening in the economy right now and I don’t wanna be frivolous with my hobby money.
I could also cut the fenders but do I really want to get into that now. Body work days are over for me.
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They do look really good on the car Mario. I ran into the problem years ago when I had some I think 32" tall slicks that only had about 1/2" clearance and were constantly hitting the wheel well. After contemplating redoing my wheel wells to fit the taller tire I decided not to and ended up selling the M/T slicks and Torque Thrusts on Craigs List. It didn't break me up to bad because they were 15's, not 16's like I prefer so I put the 16's with street tires back on until I was able to get another pair of 16" Torque Thrusts. When I did I ordered a pair of the
10 X 29 1/2 cheaters from Towel City. After I got them and had them mounted I came out the following day and one was flat. Turned out there was a super small leak from the side wall. I called up Towel City and they sent me out a replacement. At that time I hadn't started working on my Willys yet and thought I'm going to hang on to this tire. After I got the Willys running and purchased another pair of 16" Torque Thrust rims I had a buddy in a neighboring city buy a single tire from Towel City and I purchased a pair of tubes from M/T and never had a problem.
 

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Not sure moving the rear axle would be enough clearance once the tires expand at higher speed? I think they might possibly rub with expansion since the area touching is closer to tread center where they expand the most.
Probably best to sell or trade them for a smaller diameter slick that clears, and wont require moving the axle, or buying tubes. Even if you had to put out a little money, it's better than buying tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #615 ·
They do look really good on the car Mario. I ran into the problem years ago when I had some I think 32" tall slicks that only had about 1/2" clearance and were constantly hitting the wheel well. After contemplating redoing my wheel wells to fit the taller tire I decided not to and ended up selling the M/T slicks and Torque Thrusts on Craigs List. It didn't break me up to bad because they were 15's, not 16's like I prefer so I put the 16's with street tires back on until I was able to get another pair of 16" Torque Thrusts. When I did I ordered a pair of the
10 X 29 1/2 cheaters from Towel City. After I got them and had them mounted I came out the following day and one was flat. Turned out there was a super small leak from the side wall. I called up Towel City and they sent me out a replacement. At that time I hadn't started working on my Willys yet and thought I'm going to hang on to this tire. After I got the Willys running and purchased another pair of 16" Torque Thrust rims I had a buddy in a neighboring city buy a single tire from Towel City and I purchased a pair of tubes from M/T and never had a problem.
Well that worked out great for you. My Firestones measure 29" diameter. I measured the MT's and they are 32" at the edge. 1.5" each side is a big difference. Wasn't prepared for that. Tires looked smaller off the rims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #616 ·
Not sure moving the rear axle would be enough clearance once the tires expand at higher speed? I think they might possibly rub with expansion since the area touching is closer to tread center where they expand the most.
Probably best to sell or trade them for a smaller diameter slick that clears, and wont require moving the axle, or buying tubes. Even if you had to put out a little money, it's better than buying tubes.
Vall I was just thinking the same thing. Thanks for the advice.
 

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So Vall, what do you seem to have against tubes? I know if you run over a nail or something they can be a bitch but that's about the only down side I know of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #618 ·
I actually already have MT tubes. When I bought the slicks 8yrs ago I ordered the tubes and had them in storage. I was going to drill and pin the slicks with screws. I really don’t need to do all that because the car doesn’t have the power to warrant pinning them.
 

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So Vall, what do you seem to have against tubes? I know if you run over a nail or something they can be a bitch but that's about the only down side I know of.
I have nothing against tube Steve. But why buy tubes for tires that are too big? And no reason to buy tubes if you go smaller size and they don't need tubes? I guess the only thing I really have against tubes is that tubes for racing slicks are extremely expensive, and if you run regular tubes they usually don't fill out as well.
I didn't know nails were anymore issue with a tube, other than the tire and tube need to come apart to fix the tubes. But that's a plus to me as I much prefer patches over plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #620 ·
I found out something new about my tire machine during the slick mounting and dismounting. I didn’t know the top bead breaker had more adjustment than the bottom shaft which has the adjustable groves for different height. The shaft had extra holes too so I could remove the bolt and move the bead breaker higher to reach over top of the slick and into the rim. Now I didn’t have to flip it over to break both sides which is how I did it the first time. Got some bites on Facebook for the slicks but just not comfortable with the transaction methods so I’m holding off.
 
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