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Discussion Starter · #541 ·
Did you by any chance do a cylinder leak down test before you pulled the heads? If you did and it was good and since the bearings look great why not put it back together and save the money for something else the motor might need.
Good suggestion steve but the heads were already off. During its life I blew a metal style head gasket So I wanted to look at the rings anyway. I think the piston rings should be all checked or just replaced. I had plans to bring the rods to Gary for oil drilling and honing for floating wrist pins like we did on the MG 350. I swear i notice the difference in the revving. I think it will step up the motor Too. Next rebuild will be new bore and pistons anyway. Summit has a re-ring kit just over 100 bucks. Federal kit is 177. I’m gonna check Amazon. As long as the pistons look ok too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #542 ·
Next up i put the old head gasket on the block and put down some modeling clay On the piston for number one cylinder. I dropped on the cyl head with all the bolts run down with my impact gun. Didn’t torque them down cause the gasket was already flattened. I put back the lifters and push rods for number 1. Gave it 2 turns around for intake and exhaust Impression. Opened her up and this is what I found. Pete set back the valves high enough I can go up in cam if I want. Never expected that. Clearance is supposed to be .080 + from piston to valve. I have over an 1/8 “. I probed the back with a caliper gauge as you can see the holes in the clay. I’m stoked I can leave the pistons alone. Big savings And less trouble. Last time I did this I was questionably close Under .080. I saw ways of cutting valve reliefs at home on YouTube but was not looking forward to that Mess. My cam is a solid flat tappet Crower 525 intake 546 exhaust 288/292 duration. It’s been run in a long time ago. So easy peasey.

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Discussion Starter · #543 ·
I’m trying to get a call back from Gary and we can’t seem to connect playing phone tag. I wanted him to hone my connecting rods so they full float but it looks like it might not happen soon. Has anyone tried pressing out wrist pins on a home HF press without hurting the pistons? i see some using torch some using heat guns On the rod end to press out wrist pins. I’m thinking of doing all the leg work so Gary can just hone the rod end for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #544 · (Edited)
So Gary and I finally connected on the phone monday night. We discussed my options. First we discussed making the rods floating wrist pin like he did for me on the MG 355 small block. My pistons have grooves for the retainers I would need.
Then I gave him my 2 options for cam and heads I have available. I have a 530 intake 540 exhaust 294 duration crower cam with solid lifters and 202 heads that are slightly ported as I mentioned before. My other option is a roller cam 630 lift intake and exhaust with 320 duration and a set of fully ported bowtie heads that yielded 9 second quarter miles. I won't have the compression to do that but what fun would it be to have that idle with my hilborn. Gary gave me his blessing on the fully ported version with either cam and the hilborn. I guess it all depends if the valves clear the pistons. So thats my plan for now. Only problem is the rockers I have I believe are 3/8 studs. I may also need solid roller lifters unless I steal them from the current motor. Well anyway I started working on removing the pistons from the rods. Prepping them for Gary to hone for me. I drilled the oil holes with the chamfer at the top to funnel oil on the wrist pin.





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Discussion Starter · #545 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #546 ·
then there are the exhaust ports. Then look at the springs. Huge I tellya. Hope this will work out.





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Discussion Starter · #548 ·
Looks like a great pair of heads. Is the plan to make the coupe a strictly race car engine build? Or do you plan on occasional street driving also?
I minimally drive on the street to local cruise nights so I don’t mind going all out race. Our dragstrip is running again this year so I may get to go there in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #549 ·
So after prepping the rods and getting them ready for honing, I called Gary again to let him know Im ready whenever he is. So now I wait, and wait and wait. Haha.
Im trying to figure out what retainers I need for the wrist pins. Gary has lots of retainers he said but he just needs to know what part numbers I need for my pistons. Well I found a part number which is: 3946848 and a spiral lock. This number is for pistons that look like mine but have a slightly different part number. That piston I have is a 3959456 TRW 216-99. The retainer I found is for 3989048 and 3989051. I'm hoping the number will work for mine as well. Pics I have show them to be identical. Supposedly offered for both floating and press on wrist pin style rods. If anyone has an idea what I may need please feel free to throw a part number at me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #550 · (Edited)
I haven’t heard from Gary because he’s been so busy. This is why I tried honing the rods at home. I got a real good fit. The wrist pin oiled up gently slides to one side. Now I needed to check it on the piston so I waited for the retainers to show and they did yesterday. I checked the retainers fit in the piston and put the wrist-pin in. Got a nice snug fit side to side and the rod moves nicely on the wrist pin. 1 down & 7 more to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #551 ·
I did three more pistons last night and I have a good method down to make sure that they are very similar in size and being very careful not to over hone the rod end. Last thing I want is a wrist pin knock. I’ve been hunting for minimal rebuild kits cause all I need is gaskets rings and bearings. They vary in price depending on moly rings and whether it’s a Summit kit or federal mogul kit. Ranging from 100 to 200 bucks. The lower price is just cast rings. I would rather have the moly rings. I need to do some testing for valve clearances on the 630 lift cam with the bow tie heads before I order head gaskets with the kit. I’m concerned with keeping the compression as high as possible. I already know the crower cam 529/540 is fine with the 202 factory heads I was going to use as a backup. Money is a factor. Bow ties will cost me roller valve train. Crower cam is flat tappet And already on board. If the 630 roller clears the pistons I don’t mind waiting for used lifters and rockers. I have 3/8 rockers which fit the factory heads. The bow ties are 7/16 which is probably needed for the 630 lift. So onward to honing the rest of the rods. Hopefully this week I can put the number 1&2 piston in and check the 630 cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #552 · (Edited)
2 steps forward 3 steps back. I went to the pistons I already installed on the rods and found the wrist pins rotated great on the rods but not so good in the pistons with the retainers installed. so out came one retainer and I had to clearance the ends of the wrist pins so it spins at a couple thousands clearance by feel. I took off a little on each end till I could spin the wrist pin with my finger with no end play that was noticeable. I did this with my old craftsman bench belt sander. Kept things at a 90* grind. Steel base made a good flat surface to keep all level and smooth. It’s a slow way to work things out but I got two done tonight. No movement retainer to retainer but I can spin the wrist pin with my finger in the hole. Now I know for sure they are full floating. Glad I read an article on JE pistons website. I never realized the retainers would stop the pin from spinning. This is a great learning experience. To get things moving quicker I measured the last pin width at 2.97 inches. I could probably do the grinding in advance Using that measurement.
 
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2 steps forward 3 steps back. I went to the pistons I already installed on the rods and found the wrist pins rotated great on the rods but not so good in the pistons with the retainers installed. so out came one retainer and I had to clearance the ends of the wrist pins so it spins at a couple thousands clearance by feel. I took off a little on each end till I could spin the wrist pin with my finger with no end play that was noticeable. I did this with my old craftsman bench belt sander. Kept things at a 90* grind. Steel base made a good flat surface to keep all level and smooth. It’s a slow way to work things out but I got two done tonight. No movement retainer to retainer but I can spin the wrist pin with my finger in the hole. Now I know for sure they are full floating. Glad I read an article on JE pistons website. I never realized the retainers would stop the pin from spinning. This is a great learning experience. To get things moving quicker I measured the last pin width at 2.97 inches. I could probably do the grinding in advance Using that measurement.
I was going to write something nasty about "your finger in the hole" and decided not to, re. our conversation last night, LMAO!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #555 ·
I've never worked with or owned an engine with full floating wrist pins, so this is all new to me Mario. Learning as I watch your posts.
Me too. Lol
The only reason I’m doing this is because the MG motor has them and I swear it revs quicker than I’m used to seeing. Has to help. Even tho there are neigh sayers online about any difference at all.
 

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Me too. Lol
The only reason I’m doing this is because the MG motor has them and I swear it revs quicker than I’m used to seeing. Has to help. Even tho there are neigh sayers online about any difference at all.
I have read where people mentioned they weren't sure it was good for a wrist pin to float in a piston that's made of aluminum, and would wear faster than floating on a steel rod. It kinda makes sense, but then I wonder just how many miles it would shorten life?
 

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Discussion Starter · #557 ·
I have read where people mentioned they weren't sure it was good for a wrist pin to float in a piston that's made of aluminum, and would wear faster than floating on a steel rod. It kinda makes sense, but then I wonder just how many miles it would shorten life?
i may be confused with what you wrote. The piston is forged aluminum and the wrist pin spins or rocks back and forth when in cycle in the piston on press fit Rods already. So adding a rod float as well should make an inexpensive mod. 302’s had the full float setup like I’m using or creating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #558 ·
I figured I would post a pic of a wrist pin I had to grind on to make enough clearance for spin. The retainers have a flat side and a slightly rounded side.
Not noticeable until you look carefully at both sides. I didn’t know that either till I read the article at JE pistons online. First pic is the ground pin. Second as not so flat as supplied.

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Discussion Starter · #560 ·
Brain fart Mario on the wrist pin floating in the piston. Not sure what I was thinking?
Hey I totally understand that. Who among us hasn’t had gas attacks. Every day for me Vall. I tried to upload a video. Just a test.
Didn’t work direct. Gotta go to you tube.
 
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