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Discussion Starter · #541 ·
Did you by any chance do a cylinder leak down test before you pulled the heads? If you did and it was good and since the bearings look great why not put it back together and save the money for something else the motor might need.
Good suggestion steve but the heads were already off. During its life I blew a metal style head gasket So I wanted to look at the rings anyway. I think the piston rings should be all checked or just replaced. I had plans to bring the rods to Gary for oil drilling and honing for floating wrist pins like we did on the MG 350. I swear i notice the difference in the revving. I think it will step up the motor Too. Next rebuild will be new bore and pistons anyway. Summit has a re-ring kit just over 100 bucks. Federal kit is 177. I’m gonna check Amazon. As long as the pistons look ok too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #542 ·
Next up i put the old head gasket on the block and put down some modeling clay On the piston for number one cylinder. I dropped on the cyl head with all the bolts run down with my impact gun. Didn’t torque them down cause the gasket was already flattened. I put back the lifters and push rods for number 1. Gave it 2 turns around for intake and exhaust Impression. Opened her up and this is what I found. Pete set back the valves high enough I can go up in cam if I want. Never expected that. Clearance is supposed to be .080 + from piston to valve. I have over an 1/8 “. I probed the back with a caliper gauge as you can see the holes in the clay. I’m stoked I can leave the pistons alone. Big savings And less trouble. Last time I did this I was questionably close Under .080. I saw ways of cutting valve reliefs at home on YouTube but was not looking forward to that Mess. My cam is a solid flat tappet Crower 525 intake 546 exhaust 288/292 duration. It’s been run in a long time ago. So easy peasey.

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