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Discussion Starter · #521 ·
A great fix Mario and the best part was you kept it simple.
Thanks Steve. I see it that way as well. I just need to replace the on off sticker now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #522 ·
I have been wanting to install door lock knobs for ages. I bought originals that dry rotted and tore off leaving just the threaded Barrel and this was about 12 yrs ago. Recently I ordered the anti theft cal custom style knobs because they were listed as 35 Chevy knobs. To my dismay they were a #10 thread. Mine was a #6 or 8. I kept them because they were too inexpensive to send back. I have been thinking about some sort of insert into the knob that might match the thread Of the door lock. So today I was at Ace hardware and I was looking for the seat bolts I need and I see screw anchors left on the counter. It hit me like a ton of bricks. Why couldn’t I stuff that in the door locks I have and let the anchor self tap into the rod. I gave it a shot and it worked.
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Ran into the same thing Mario on my '39. The newer style door locks fell over the threaded shank on my doors. I wrapped the threads with teflon pipe tape and screwed them on, and they seem to be holding well so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #524 ·
Well my wedding anniversary is coming up in Sept and I made an early request for M/T valve covers. The story is 3 yrs ago I bought 2 used sets. One I put on the MG. The other set I saved for the coupe. Well 2weeks ago I took them down from storage and decided to check fit with my roller rockers and girdle kit when it all checked out ok. I was psyched. So I laid them on the beach to start cleanup when I noticed a daylight see thru a crack at the bolt down area on one of the covers. Now I’m thinking welding aluminum And how will I do this. Then on the second cover I noticed a dent on the inboard side and the base was a little wavy. So I waved goodbye. Not gonna deal with it. Ive been searching all over for a decent price used valve cover and it’s gone sky high. Buy used and you get what I already have and end up with used scrap. I checked new with summit racing and they were 25$ more and polished. So I yelled hey Chele……do you mind if I order my anniversary gift early? she said sure go ahead. So I orded the the new Mickeys polished. I got them in and was looking them over when I noticed some unfinished polishing between the grids And lettering. I’m thinking that they will all look like that from China. So I called Summit and they agreed that replacements won’t be any better. So they credited me 30 bucks. Now they look great. Lol. Reason this way, If I bought used pieces at the high prices posted and polished them they would look about the same Or worse so I’m good with it. They’re not perfect but neither am I.
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You may want to look at PML. WAY expensive. BUT U.S.A. :) Got these for my Cad.
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I didn't realize that those MT were still being made these days? They look very traditional, and must be cast off the originals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #527 ·

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Discussion Starter · #528 ·
I didn't realize that those MT were still being made these days? They look very traditional, and must be cast off the originals?
I like them Vall. Except for the unfinished polishing on top. Like I said if I would have polished them they would have looked worse. Plus imagine all the sanding and polishing and buffing I would have to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #529 ·
My son sold his vette. Someone made him an offer that made him money after owning it for 3 years. So I have an empty spot in the garage. I have been wanting to pull out my LT1 that was in the coupe during my accident. It’s been in storage since I built the 377 during the gasser build. So this week while I was off a few days I dug it out to open it up and plan to give it a once over. I started looking at the piston tops and lifters. Topside all looks really good. My master plan is to put my Hilborn on it for the coupe. The late great Pete Davis almost gifted the Hilborn to me. I paid a quarter of the going price for a used working injection package. He told me the coupe deserved the Hilborn. So this build is dedicated to him. My 377 is a 9.5 to 1 and the LT1 is close to 11-1 with a .05 1044 Felpro head gasket. Pete said the higher compression would work better with the injection. My only issue with the motor is valve clearance. The cam I have in there may have tapped a few valves during my running at the strip. When Pete went through my heads he said there were a few bent valves. he replaced them and did a multi angle valve job on the seats and the valves. So sad he passed away. The Hilborn was run at national speedway on Long Island back in the 60’s. Pete bought it from the Willys owner, used it on his Vega and then sold it to me. It has gas nozzles with a working pump. I have to set it up. It’s going to be a learning experience with a very cool factor for me.
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Well that will likely make your '35 a strictly drag strip car since you'd have to prime the injectors to fire it off usually. But how cool is an injected engine! I've contemplated doing it for my Austin's engine since it's fairly high compression also, but chickened out as I drive it so much on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #531 ·
Yeah I know It will be hit or miss on the starts. But it’s worth a try. This will likely be my last fling with a project. When I see the tunnel ram it makes me think to just leave it alone and just drive it. But I also think if this block and Hilborn sell as a package deal it could bring some money back that was spent a while ago. LT1 pink rod and forged crank block With Hilborn.
 

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Many years ago while at the Hot Rod Reunion a woman was there with a streetable Fiat Topolino with a small block and mechanical Hilborn injection. She had rigged up a really cool system to prime the motor. She installed a small electric fuel pump and ran a fuel line to an 8 port block (looked like a nitrous distribution block) that had a solenoid installed on the "in" port of the block. She'd then taken the lines that normally would have fed nitrous and had drilled and tapped the injection ports for small spray nozzles. When she wanted to start the motor she simply turned on the fuel pump, pushed a button that controlled the solenoid, got a quick shot of fuel, hit the starter and there it was. It was really a very clean & simple set up. I asked her why she didn't just take the primer line off the injection pump and she said the electric pump worked great for starting the motor and less flooding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #533 ·
Sounds very interesting. Thanks for that Steve. I will have a pump already available and I also have another Holley red pump in my box of tricks in my auto treasure chest. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #534 ·
Many years ago while at the Hot Rod Reunion a woman was there with a streetable Fiat Topolino with a small block and mechanical Hilborn injection. She had rigged up a really cool system to prime the motor. She installed a small electric fuel pump and ran a fuel line to an 8 port block (looked like a nitrous distribution block) that had a solenoid installed on the "in" port of the block. She'd then taken the lines that normally would have fed nitrous and had drilled and tapped the injection ports for small spray nozzles. When she wanted to start the motor she simply turned on the fuel pump, pushed a button that controlled the solenoid, got a quick shot of fuel, hit the starter and there it was. It was really a very clean & simple set up. I asked her why she didn't just take the primer line off the injection pump and she said the electric pump worked great for starting the motor and less flooding.
I would have loved to see that Fiat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #535 · (Edited)
this post is gonna take some reading. I needed to go a little off topic for a bit Just to give you a back story.
In storage I duct taped the motor to keep dirt out of most areas Back in 2002. My 202 straight plug camel hump heads that I was using on the LT1 originally, went on the MG build. The heads that I bought used and ran after the camel humps were 202’s slightly ported when I bought them. The guy who sold them to me yielded an 11:40 using nitrous with 12-1 comp. I used them as they were and yielded a best et of 11:81 No juice.
Pete did a trick valve job with his own special cutting tools. And handed me the heads with a flow data sheet which he performed himself being he had a head flow testing machine. Don’t ask me where that sheet is right now. He gave his blessing on the heads with a mild port job. Shortly after sadly he passed. He was amazing. Wanted to help me build the coupe while he was Terminally ill.
I had no idea as he never mentioned it. He pioneered small Chevy builds at the drag strip and ran half a second faster than his competition. He was sponsored by SK Speed in Lindenhurst driving an Anglia back in the late 60’s and early 70’s. He told me he was part of tunnel ram research and development. Before Edelbrock made it available. He also drove his own Vega as well with an experimental dominator cut in half placed center directly over each half of the custom intake. Let’s top this all off with him being a college professor teaching physics at Stony Brook College. Man he did it all. So sorry to loose him as a friend. He befriended me when I attended the 100 ft drags at Riverhead with the coupe back in 2010 which caught his interest While it was on the trailer. Sorry I just went off topic a bit but it needed to be mentioned. When he sold me the Hilborn he gave me a brass valve with a rod and knob attached he mounted in the Vega to adjust for a lesser line pressure for street driving To drive his car to the drag strip Without fouling his plugs. So this will be very interesting As a project for me.

Now back to the show.
I pulled off the oil pan and then the timing cover. The timing chain is as tight as the day I installed it. Obviously minimal mileage Over 12 years of driving. About 50% of it was quarter mile. So I’m happy.


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harbor freight 1100lbs electric hoist makes this an easy one man operation. Love that thing.

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LT1 was built with the windage tray and stud kit. I installed the Milodon 7qt pump and pickup For a 7qt summit racing oil pan. I used a high volume pump with a standard pressure spring, a tip I picked up from Dick Gazan Small Block Builder. That way you don’t need to be worried about running out of oil at the crank and worth a couple of horses at the top end.
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Some oily sludge from a previous cam and head change but virtually no metal material anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #536 ·
I popped out a rod bearing and a main bearing just cause I was really curious about the wear and if they were standard as I remembered. And sure enough they were in decent shape and also standard for both. Then put them back so I could check valve to piston clearance.
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Discussion Starter · #538 ·

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Discussion Starter · #539 ·
I pulled out the heads that Pete worked up for me. They have been wrapped up for at least 5 or 6 years. First thing I noticed different was the valve seat area was de-shrouded around the valves and also the valves look set back from their original position. His trick was just that and he did his own muti angle valve grind. Proven to increase flow in his flow booth. He had me bring the heads for a surface cut. .005 at another shop that had a grinder. 1.5 springs shimmed installed. today I rolled the push rods on a glass mirror. All perfect. So maybe the slightly bent valves were from the previous owner. I didn’t have the heads checked before I used them.
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Did you by any chance do a cylinder leak down test before you pulled the heads? If you did and it was good and since the bearings look great why not put it back together and save the money for something else the motor might need.
 
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