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What about welders?

15K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  Doright 
#1 ·
Thinking of buying a new mig. Any 110v that can weld 1/4 inch? Saw one at Eastwood site, but does it?
 
#2 ·
I know everyone says that a 110 will do most of your jobs that need to be done. I have a 220v unit and am really pleased with it. I can pretty much weld whatever I need to do, or what I think I can anyway. They are not that much more and with less duty cycle and more amps, I think you would be happy to have the more powerful unit. If you do not have 220 at your shop, well, that's a good reason for the 110. I would stick with a Hobart, Miller style welder, I haven't seen the Eastwood one's work. I am sure someone will chime in though. My 2 pennies worth.
 
#3 ·
I really don't think a 110 welder is capable of doing a reliable penetration on 1/4. It may weld but not long and consistent like it would need. I have a Lincoln sp185 with variable controls on 110 volt and it does 3/16 with great penetration. 1/4 works but in shorter spurts. I was told my machine was an all around thin gauge to 1/4 steel welder and the dials make it versatile enough to do it all. It has served me very well and 110 made it a great tool all around the garage. Ive worked on 3 cars with it and I only changed the wire feed torch cable since 2003 or 4. I would recommend it in a heart beat. Before this lincoln I had one of those Marquette welders made in italy and it didn't last very long. Mig Gas of course. I don't use the flux core. Although I might try it on the 1/4 but it must be ugly.
 
#4 ·
I've welded thicker than 1/4" with my Miller 140 Autoset. But when I weld thicker metal, I also bevel my welds, and it can take multiple passes on metals of 3/8" or thicker. I've never regretted buying the Miller 140, but if I would have had a big shop, and bigger budget, I probably would have gone the next step up.
 
#5 ·
Rent my garage. So putting in 220 is not an option. May go back to stick. I know a 110 stick will weld 1/4.
 
#6 ·
110v any thing wont do a proper single pass weld on 1/4" unless you pre-heat the metal and bevel it and then I would not trust it on some thing that is going to be really stressed...I have a Miller auto set 140 on a decaded 20 amp circuit on a short run to the fuse box, it will do a great job up to 1/8", and is what I use 95% of the time, most auto welding is 1/8" down, for heavy stuff i go to the Lincoln coffin 180 stick, be sure to get a welder that is gas ready, also buy good USA made wire unless you are doing decorating welds and need to file them down for looks, the china shit is way softer. when it comes to the welder you get what you pay for
 
#7 ·
A+1 on Lash's comment. Also are you considering any sheet metal work? Stick welder won't help you there.
 
#10 ·
Just need to use the right rod. "that's what she said" Have a 110 mig gas to do sheet metal. May be doing frame work.
 
#11 ·
Know a guy, if he's still alive, that did ladder bars for Catalina's with 110 stick. Bars never broke. 4000 lb. cars with 421's and bigger.
 
#12 ·
I used to have a 110 Daytona Mig that I used for a lot of things I probably shouldn't have. I'm not making any recommendations, but I never had any failures. Now I have a 220 Lincoln and feel a lot better about what I do. I also have a Lincoln 225 stick welder I need to get running, by upsizing the wire to the plug and installing a bigger breaker.
 
#13 ·
Remember back in the 60's guys did things with gas. I think it was the 'Pure Hell' altered that ran an exhaust pipe straight axle after a qualifying crash. I remember NHRA tech wasn't to happy, but let him go anyway.
 
#15 ·
Like has been said before, if you can swing the cash buy a good name machine, Miller, Lincoln, ESAB etc. If your limited to 120 volt a good American welder will especially do better then a Chinese 120 just as the 240 volt units will. If your not in a hurry, keep an eye on Craigslist, local swap sites etc.. I've seen a few good name brand 120 volt welders quite often. Good luck!
 
#16 ·
The machine is not really the problem. The problem is with supply. Don't know the specs yet on the Eastwood welder. Or manufacture, but the price seemed good. Must be chinese.
 
#17 ·
There all chinese even the new millers some in mexico, as well as new lincolns.. there just made to a better spec, any 120 is going to need a 20 amp circuit to be able to really cook and sizzle with out kicking the circuit...they say a 15 amp is enough but I have found that a 20 amp is much better and a short run is best, if you have it at max...welder is just half the cost, gas ,cart ,helmet and supplies are also a big expense...shop Craigs list there seem to come up on a regular bases, if your not going to use it a lot you may be better off getting it set up and have a mobile welder come over and do it for you
 
#18 ·
Cart? If you have a welder you can make your own cart. Didn't look at my avatar. That's my car and the shop I work at. Welding at the shop is not a problem. The problem is welding at home. Cant tie up a bay for months with my shit.
 
#19 ·
Carts are so inexpensive now that I couldn't buy the metal to make one for what I bought one for. Plus rather spend my time doing welding on the cars. I paid $32 brand new for my cart, and it's worked great for me.
I went over to purchase a Wilton vise from a craigslist ad recently, and the seller had two wire feeds there for sale cheap. One was a fairly new Lincoln 130 MIG that was 120v., with cart, gauge, gas line, and everything but a tank. He was asking $350, and might have come down more, as he was moving out of state. I almost bought it, in case a friend needed one, but couldn't think of someone who I might pass it along to.
 
#20 ·
Buy? Shopping carts, bed frames, fridges. These are all items people throw away by me on a weekly basis. No need to buy.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Just realized!! I have a power generator I found in the garbage!! 8hs motor, it runs! But I'm getting shocked through the case. Have to pull the case off and see if I can find out what's going on. Need to know if the HF tig is any good.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Hi, I have had some experiences with 110v mig welders. Some of the posts hit it right on the head, yes it is possible to weld 1/4" with bevels and pre heat but it is a bit on the edge.

A few things I have learned on these machines.

A USA made machine does seem to last longer than the imports. We bought 2 lincoln's (now imports) and 2 hobarts (assembled in USA) a few years ago and one of the lincolns has burned up already and is far less heavy duty compared to the hobart. Hobart is a value line of Miller and in my opinion are great machines for the money. The older Lincolns were made in the USA and I have seen them hold up well too.

Use 75%Argon/25% Co2 gas for best arc stability.
.023 wire for light gauge welding and .030 works well up to 1/8"

The flux core general service wire does burn hotter and may work for heavier gauge steels. This is what they may be rating the machines for that you see.

Also look at the duty cycle, try and get one with the highest percent at the highest amperage/voltage.

If possible use a 20amp circuit and do not use an extension cord when welding at maxed out ranges. Also use a 10 or 12 ga. ext. cord as short as possible, you will amazed on how much it affects the welder with long thin gauge cords.

I recently purchased a HF 180 amp mig (220v) for work to fill in for a Miller that died after 20 years until I can get a replacement. I also bought the warranty to just see how well it holds up. I will update as to see how it holds up.

Anyways it is always better to buy a larger machine than you think you need. I would avoid some of the older dual voltage machines, I have seen several main circuits fail when you do lots of trigger welding.

Hope this helps,
Steve
 
#24 ·
Wow Steve that was chock full of advice. Thanks for sharing your welding experience. I use a Lincoln sp 135 that has been outstanding from 2004. Im thinking it's the USA version.
 
#25 ·
I still have lots of old stuff that works grate. It is now a global market so welders have followed suite, I am sure even the big US company machines are full of import parts as well. I am not saying all import stuff is not good, they have some nice inverter type stuff that is reasonably priced. As for the HF Tig if I remember correct the new one they have out is just DC; this will limit you to just steel and not aluminum. One low priced tig I have seen is the Everlast brand. I have not had much experience with them but from what I have read and people that I know they seem to be good units. I am sure lots of off brands like eastwood ect are made by common companies with different branding. Sometimes they even look the same and have the same controls.
 
#26 ·
The old stuff is like the "Energizer" bunny! Seen machines that have been in WWII that were still working into the early '90's. Still wish some of them dudes were still alive!
 
#28 ·
First off asking a 110 v welder to weld 1/4" is asking a lot of any of the 110v machines out there not saying it cant be done but????

I would look into running 220 out to your garage OR Making a HEAVY extension cord for your Clothes drier plug out to your garage, When I say Heavy I mean Heavy! 00 wire!
I did this for years before wiring my garage. You may think its expensive to run new wiring out to your garage now but think about how much an electrical Fire would cost you if it were to happen?

There are great deals to be had on older large Transformer machines in the used market as every one is going to the smaller Inverter machines.
I picked up a used Miller Shopmaster 300 with a Hi Frequency box for Tig welding I picked it up used for $1500 a few years ago Great AC/DC constant current machine.
It does Mig Tig and Stick.

I also have a Miller Millermatic 251 Mig welder I bought new works great even on Thin sheet metal.

Then I also have my Everlast 250EX Inverter machine its a Fantastic little welder AC/DC I would buy another Everlast again in a Heart beat great machine!
They have many models and great prices ya there made out of the country but they are very affordable and your getting a great welder for your money with a great warranty! They stand behind there machines!
That was my major concern with buying one Just in-case.
I Went on there websight they have had a few machines with problems but Everlast has always fixed it or given the owner a new machine.

Duty cycle is every thing in welding especially when welding thick stuff! The higher the duty cycle the better the machine is.
If your knocking on the limits of your duty cycle expect to be buying a new machine its that simple.
Heat kills welders! They get HOT! Welders don't like to be pushed beyond there limits (DUTY CYCLE) They Burn up if you do it once to often and with todays Elcheapo everything you get what you pay for!
With smaller Machines You may hit your Duty cycle once or twice and the machine just stops to cool down BUT the damage is done turn it back on and it may work or you may let the Magic smoke out you just never know.

Just me but I would buy a Quality machine to begin with like a USED Miller or Lincoln, I prefer Miller myself but I wouldn't shy away from a good upper line Everlast!
Good luck finding a used one! People just don't sell them used very often for some reason lol !
 
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