Most people fabricate a bracket on the intake manifold or carb mounting bolts to attach the regulator to. Some mount it on the frame, but yours might not be accessible to adjust hidden down low.
Fired her up today. not too many gremlins. I was impressed by the ease. Holley Sniper is very sensitive to good grounding though. We need to do some breakin and driving to eek out anything else overlooked. I am really stoked at the shop that halped my manage this and who did most of the work, Ready Motorsports in Mannfred OK.
In addition to the new engine build I had contacted Don Ross Fabrications about building me a pair of engine side panels with louvers. Don is highly respected in the nostalgia car building circles. He has restored at least one of Garlit's Swamp Rats, the Nichols dragster crashed at Indy in the mid 1960's, and is currently building the Shark Dragster run by Nix and others in the 1960's. It was really great that Don had the time to do this and it will really make the car a treasure.
About three years ago I had a cam lobe go flat, filled the motor with metal. i pulled it to have a local shop go through and refresh it. They built the long block complete. We got home and while putting it together, two of the bolt holes in the heads for the intake just crumbled. I pulled the heads and went back to the shop. I was pretty pissed they did not catch the deterioration. They went through and fixed the holes. Turns out these were chinese heads and the castings were literally turning back to sand. I put the heads on and could only manage to finger tight several of the intake bolts and lost a couple of threads on the exhaust manifold. Still, like a dumbass, I went ahead and put her together. The shortblock was solid and had good internals. I drove it for two years. Tuning was a nightmare and it would not consistently stay in tune. A close friend gave me a set of 062 casting Vortec heads. Instead of bolting them directly on, I took them to a machine shop to work on the guides and the spring seats thinking to put a bigger cam in with the heads. It took nearly a year to get the work done but a large part of it was the guy at the machine shop showed me how to set up the machines and do it. We set them up for flat tappet cam with a 550 or better lift. The heads came out nicely. I decided to change the heads and Charles Ready at Ready Motorsports offered to help me. We were going to do it in his shop and I was going to go up and help. Meanwhile I decided it I was going that far on the engine I just as well put a roller cam in and bought a Comp Extreme Energy X288 roller cam conversion kit. The motor was a mess, used a lot of oil and fouled the plugs quite a bit. That was when Charles learned he screwed up. He recommended a Holley Sniper EFI. Neither you guys nor Charles knew I was the guy that started with headers on a GTO and wound up with nearly 1500 whp. So we assembled the parts and heads and Charles pulled the old heads. It was ugly, Compression was good but a couple of cylinders had bad scratches. I could look down the intake runners of the old heads and see the wet oil running through. The seals were good, it was the metal around the guides on the head side criumbling that let oil flow directly into the intake runner. I was already pretty heavily into the heads, cam kit, and Sniper so I figured the short block needed to be redone. I was looking for a 010 casting block but we figured with the roller cam and Vortec heads, why not just go to a later model SBC block with a one piece rear main seal. By then we had upgraded the valve springs on the heads and I got thinking, stroker..... So we had Midwest Engines in Tulsa do the longblock. They had done a build for Hot Rod Magazine a few years ago. so that's a pretty common gearhead version of how I went from a free head swap to a acompletely built 383 stroker with roller cam and EFI. Sorry for the rant, it is amazing to look at how I got there though. Essentially, yes the old motor was not well enough to risk using with the new stuff. I should have followed my gut instinct and replaced the heads when I first found the problem. Still, I put a lot of miles on those cheap heads, and had a lot of fun. Can't wait to try out the stroker
Okay got her home Thursday Unloading her and I hear a thud on the other side of the trailer. rushed around to see what was up and my wife was face down on the concrete sidewalk. Huge pool of blood. after a minute she was coherent and we got her up and in the house. She refused to go to the hospital which made for a long evening. Got her to the Dr's office Friday, aside from some pretty bad bruising and a broken nose she is okay. After 70, falling is a terrifying thing, probably one of the biggest killers. Completely forgot about the car until today. I had an appointment with Don for the final fitment of the hood panels but had to cancel it. The tune wasn't sport on because I rushed the shop to get the car on Thursday. It is a 4 hour drive. Messed with it a bit Friday night and got it idling pretty good, took it out to log some hours. Brand new motor is tight, probably less than 100 miles on it so I am taking it pretty easy. Took it out today and did some tuning logs. Adjusted the mechanical timing which was off pretty badly and have now started the tuning/relearning process. Have a really good tuner coming over Monday night to tweak it.
Looks good Bill...sorry to here about the wife...glad she is ok...and yup falling down when your old indeed sucks...been there done it a few times...you need to post some sound bytes...once you get the final tune on it
Lash...Washington Chapter and Member...Mean Old Bastards Club
Big problem nowadays is going to a hospital or emergency room. That was the challenging issue. On a brighter note, after a clean bill of health for my wife, I turned to my less than healthy EFI. Car would not start well, didn't idle well, had a bad lag at part throttle operations and seemed sluggish on the top end. Only thing to do was go back to the basics and start from scratch. I reset the Distributor to TDC +10 degrees and set up the efi on a base static timing of 15 degrees. Then went through and reset all the input parameters on the setup wizard. Turns out the distributor had been bumped when I was coming to pick the car up. The car responded well to the 10 degree initial timing so I decided to up everything to 15 degrees which a couple of the Holley YouTube Videos suggest on the Hyperspark. I made a video of the process. When I set the timing up the car responded immediatly, calming down and running much smoother still than it had with the 10 degree static. The idle shot up to 2000 RPM on the way home so I reset that and the car runs absolutely fantastic. Enjoy the video.