So Cal 53 Mainline street gasser - Page 35
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Thread: So Cal 53 Mainline street gasser

  1. #341
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Bet in California can can no long have that plate with the word white....
    Lash...Washington Chapter and Member...Mean Old Bastards Club

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  3. #342
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    So I

    hope I'm not posting this to soon. Everyday since I got the car running again when I'd check the radiator it's needed some water so I'd put some in and check the oil for signs of water and there'd be none. Finally today when I checked it the level was right up at the top; I guess it just took a lot of time to purge itself. It also appears that the small amount of water that was in the oil system has been expelled as steam because there's no more vapors coming from the valve cover breathers, whew........................... I had it idiling for about 15 minutes today and the temp got up to 185 which is good news because there is a group of hot rodders who want to do a cruise tomorrow of the homes of an Army and Marine vet who both have the virus. I guess I can always take the Willys though.
    Steve Hidden Content MOB in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  4. #343
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Sounds like you got it Steve. Have some fun and take her out on the cruise. Just check your carb spring return or bring extra diapers. Like i will tonight. LOL
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  5. #344
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    It's the

    little things that'll kill your motor. I had the 53 out today, the weather was hot 95 degrees, but the car's been running cooler since I got the heads done. I take a look at my temp gauge and it's up to 235 and I'm like WTF. My first thought was a slipped or broken belt but the volt meter is showing 14 volts. I pull over to check it and the fans aren't working. I check the circuit breaker with the fuel pump and it's fine ditto the relay so then I flip the 2 way switch from the sensor to manual on and the fans come on so I'm figuring a bad sensor as Val and I both commented on having problems with. When I get home and let the motor cool down I pull the sensor out and replace it with a new spare and it still doesn't work, turns out it's a bad 2 way switch!!!!! At least I had a spare new one in my 12 volt electric box of parts.
    Yep, no lie; if it's got wheels or tits it'll give you trouble.
    Steve Hidden Content MOB in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  6. #345
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    235 is a scary number Steve. I’m glad you caught that and were able to use the 2nd position to manual mode so you could get home. That happened to me too before I finished my setup in the MG. I had poor cooling in my case and not a fan fail. Is your switch tripping the negative on the relay or direct to sensor and ground causing a load and burn on the switch? Reason I ask is because I have yet to loose a switch that is a ground to a negative trigger 30 amp relay.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  7. #346
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I have relays on both of my cars, but I also have override switches that are direct current carrying switches when I need to override if a relay or sensor fails. I don't think in today's world of poor quality parts we can afford to not have a way to bypass critical systems like the cooling fan.
    Vall

  8. #347
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    Mario

    Mine's wired with the power going to the fans through a relay and 20 amp circuit breaker. The two way switch, typical 125/250 vac 20 amp, is one side goes to a chassis ground and the other side to the sensor.
    Steve Hidden Content MOB in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  9. #348
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I have mine wired direct 12 v. positive to the fans, and ground switched through the relay contacts. Same thing, just a different side of the circuit.
    Vall

  10. #349
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    To hopefully

    eliminate this problem from happening again I ordered a miniature blue LED indicator light. I'm going to mount it under the fan switch and hook the lights ground lead up to the center post of the 2 way switch. That way when the switch is on manual it'll light and when it's on the sensor it'll light when the sensor grounds.
    Steve Hidden Content MOB in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  11. #350
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbauman2 View Post
    eliminate this problem from happening again I ordered a miniature blue LED indicator light. I'm going to mount it under the fan switch and hook the lights ground lead up to the center post of the 2 way switch. That way when the switch is on manual it'll light and when it's on the sensor it'll light when the sensor grounds.
    Steve, I bought bat wing toggles with a light in the end of the bat wing. They have 3 wires so two do the switching, and the 3rd terminal is to illuminate the light in the end of the bat wing. So I just took the power lead from the fan and fed it back to the 3rd terminal, so if it's lit up there's power to the fan. Saves adding another hole in the dash, and another lamp.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-C1-Red-C...72.m2749.l2649
    Vall

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