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dsb's chevy gasser build

75K views 787 replies 17 participants last post by  dsb 
#1 ·
Well, time for me to join the party. My first stint on here I was building a 1949 chevy styleline 2 door gasser. Ran into money problems and went back to HD choppers. Well, sold my bike and decided I was going to go another direction. I started with my running gear first since that is where most of the money is. So, without further ado, here we go!


For the motor- it is a mid 70's 350 bored .040. Camel hump heads with screw in studs, comp cams muthr thumpr, Edelbrock air gap intake, edelbrock carb, new pistons, polished crank etc...

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Transmission is early 80's TH350 with 56000 miles on it. I put a B&M shift kit in and a new pan. Should be in good shape there.....

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Rear end is out of a 1997 Trans Am WS6 with 15x10 wheels on it.

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Front tires are morose drag skinnys

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continued next post....
 
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#2 ·
Just picked this up today- 1950 chevy truck axle set up. Great shape, spindles are rock solid, all I need to do is buy the kit to put disc brakes on it. 50 bucks!

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And the best deal yet was this 1948 styleline frame from Arizona. still had the factory brake master cylinder and all lines on it for 100 bucks! Not a speck of rust that needs attention. Looks like it came from the factory.

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Scored a set of bucket? seats from one of those hotel vans they pick you up in the airport with for free. Will re cover and find sliders for them but pretty comfy.

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#3 ·
Attached stand offs on the inside frame rails for holding brake, fuel and power lines. If you have not heard of BungKing.com check them out.

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Started marking center lines of current front and rear tires so I get the replacements in the same spot. I actually saved my notes from the last build so I won't even need a body yet to get them on. The rear axle is going under the springs.

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#4 ·
Wow Dave you are on your way. My jaw dropped when I got done reading and seeing your posts. I have the same front axle on my MG with the disc conversion kit and mid seventies bearings rotors and calipers.
 
#6 ·
Unfortunately I purchased mine locally who ordered it for me. I didn’t know better back then. I can look at speedway and see if it’s like mine later for you.
 
#8 ·
Speedway's site is where I got my disc brake conversion. There's really two options there and they are Chevy or Ford bolt pattern. But they also offer two disc diameters, and I prefer the smaller rotors for clearance for any wheel. Here's the link to what you need for your axle if you go Chevy pattern. No machining needed.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe-Disc-Brake-Kit-1947-1959-Chevy-Half-Ton-Pickup,4622.html

Good to note the wheelbase length, but don't get hung up on keeping it stock length, or it will look goofy when it's raised higher! Most people go 1"-2" forward with the front axle to keep it centered or slightly forward when swapping in a straight axle. I went 1.5" on my Falcon, and 1" on my Austin.

Be careful with piston choice when using the small chamber camel hump heads, or your compression will end up too high, and your engine will ping even on premium octane gas! I'd go with 10cc dished pistons to work with those small 62cc combustion chambers.
I went with flat tops on my Austin and camel humps, and my compression is high enough I need to add octane booster, or race fuel to my premium gas to avoid detonation.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the link Vall! I did see in my notes that on my other one I did move it forward of the center line 1 inch. Heading out to lunch soon to pick up some 2x3 inch metal stock to make perches for the springs. As for pistons my engine guy said the same thing so I got some dished pistons will put me right where I need to be. My engine guy has been drag racing for over 30 years and is setting me up for a great street/ light to light car!

Now I just have to figure out the torque converter.
 
#12 ·
My disc brake kit for my '55-'59 truck axle came with spacers also. It's in there because the spindle will run out of threads before the spindle nut get tight against the bearings. I put my Austin together for mockup and as most guys do, I didn't read the instructions first. Got it all together and spun the nut down and it ran out of threads before it got close. Decided I better read the instructions, and get it right, even if it was just mockup.

One other heads up on the kit. The brackets for the steering arms will not clear the kingpins. I have no idea why Speedway doesn't make them to clear, or give longer bolts and spacer bushings in the kits? But you'll need to put spacers between the spindles and the arms that are thick enough to allow them to clear the kingpins.
Have to just hold them up and measure how thick the spacers need to be as I don't recall the size? I cut mine off some thick wall DOM tube and put them over the bolts to space it out. I tack welded them to the arms once they were tightened down just so they wouldn't have a chance of rocking and loosening the bolts.
 
#15 ·
#19 ·
Been shopping for a body for the car. I chose the 49-52 chevy because I like it and the frame was the same for 4 years running. Also, other makes used it as well. Here are some i am looking at.

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That last pic is of the business coupes floor. I love the look of the business coupes, but that floor may be beyond my meager skills to fix. He only wants 1000 dollars and I am sure I can get him down lower. We will have to wait and see....
 
#20 ·
I wouldn't worry about rusted out floors. They make patch panels that aren't too spendy. As long as the rockers are solid. Rockers are a PITA to replace, and are a game changer to me. Having just finished rockers on my '39 I'm looking forward to simple floor repairs!
Floor patch panels for front and rear can be found on Ebay for under $300 for all 4 pans. Likely you wont need the center hump as they never rust out. The 4 pans should get all, and whatever they don't cover can be patched with just small flat strips if needed.

I personally think the fastbacks are cool, but don't work as a gasser for me.
 
#23 ·
Wow being in the rust belt you have a lot of looking around to do to find some thing solid....witch in the long run will save you time and money if you need to go out of state to find a solid body... may be worth the shipping hassle...I hate rust..and latent salt deposits that eat away for ever
 
#24 ·
I’m with Vall on the fastbacks. With the right rake and axle location it may work great. It reminds me of tony’s Studebaker.
Speaking of which will be the July feature car on our calendar starting Monday.
 
#26 ·
Black with flames. It’s so classic. Flames actually look good on there.
 
#28 ·
I guess I could go either way with condition making my decision.
 
#30 ·
I wouldn't expand the search so far that you can't rent a car trailer and go get it yourself. First issue is taking the seller's supplied pictures, or word about condition. Second issue is the sheer cost of shipping these days. It could easily cost you much more than what basic rust repair costs, and it could turn out where you paid shipping and still had to do rust repair. That would be a real double loss situation.
I'd stay within a day's drive to buy a car and that way you can still get lots of pictures and talk to the seller. Then once you're satisfied grab a trailer and truck and go look at it. If it's as advertised you can load it up and haul it home.
 
#32 ·
ok, HOW DO i GET THESE THREADED THINGS OUT OF THE EYE OF THE LEAF SPRING? sorry for yelling. Also, do I need these on here? Looks like they are some sort of stop but one does not look like the other....

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#35 ·
Hey Vall, I want to use the springs. I bought new bushings for the eyes, but with that threaded plug in the eye, they do not fit. I tried heating them up to pound them out, but all I got was sprayed with hot grease!
 
#34 ·
Those little brackets do look like stops but mine are bolts at the bottom of the spindle that hit the I-beam axle for stops.
Im not familiar with yours. Maybe they changed from year to year. I like the bolt setup with as a stop so it prevents you from turning too far each way.
 
#36 ·
Dave,

good luck if you're using propane or mapp; neither will get the steel eye hot enough. You need an oxy acetylene to get it red hot. Just make sure you've got the right size driver handy for the threaded bushing. The best bet though is a press if you have access to one or even if you have to go somewhere and pay $30 for a cold press removal.
 
#37 ·
Yes, I'd take the springs to a shop and have them press them out. Can't imagine it would cost more than the $30 for both that Steve mentioned?

Those L shaped "stops" Marion mentioned appear to be homemade to me? I think somebody just sandwiched them on the kingpin retaining pins.
 
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