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Thread: dsb's chevy gasser build

  1. #281
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    I ordered my 4.10 gears yesterday! So excited!
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

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  3. #282
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    scored big today on Craigslist. Got these 2 Holley "red" pumps for 20 bucks. both work as advertised.

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    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  4. #283
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    If you have room for a mechanical fuel pump I'd sure rather go that route myself. I have to run an electric in my Austin for lack of room. But in my '39 Chev I actually converted back to mechanical since the block was machined for it, and I just needed the plate and pushrod. They're sure way more reliable than even the best electric pumps.
    Vall

  5. #284
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1946Austin View Post
    If you have room for a mechanical fuel pump I'd sure rather go that route myself. I have to run an electric in my Austin for lack of room. But in my '39 Chev I actually converted back to mechanical since the block was machined for it, and I just needed the plate and pushrod. They're sure way more reliable than even the best electric pumps.
    Dammit Vall! LOL. OK. I thought I could not go wrong, but mechanical would be easier.
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  6. #285
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Another productive weekend. Got the firewall covered with that Eastwood rust encapsulator along with most every bracket I have yet to install. Installed the sound deadening on the floor so it is looking like a car again. I had to modify the brake pedal since the master cylinder is so high but should work well. I noticed a huge issue though with my steering shaft. it comes out of the firewall and points right at my headers. I am gonna have to noodle that.

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    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  7. #286
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    Dave

    it's really coming together nicely and is definitely looking like a gasser!!! Good stuff.
    Steve Hidden Content MOB in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  8. #287
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    You're getting bunch done Dave! Nice!
    You can probably raise the end of the column to be above the header, and then snake the DD shaft through between #5 and #7 exhaust tubes with a couple steering joints. Or toss that column and switch to a tilt column, and drop it lower from the dash to go under the #7 tube.
    Vall

  9. #288
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Well, I decided Saturday morning to solve the rear end riddle that has plagued me since I cut it off. I must have sat and stared at it for an hour , then it hit me like a Mack truck. Why in the world didn't I use the part of the floor the tail panel attached to? I must have moved that part millions of times because it was in the way. It uses the same two mounting holes as the original and it was not any where near as rusted as the original. Plus, when I cut it off, I cut a good 5 to 6 inches of it off. So, I put it on top of the old one, stuck 2 bolts down the mounting holes to keep it lined up, drew my cut line and whacked off what I did not need. I cut the new floor panels off at the welds so I could save the length and the 2 cross members I made to support the floor. welded it up and it is now flat, solid and even more sturdy than it was before. I put the tail panel up there, lined up and clamped the quarter panels to hold them and welded the trunk lock mechanism to the floor. Then a little trimming and one side of the panel fit like a glove. The other took a little more trimming, but both are tack welded to the trunk lip and top of the fender holding them in lace. I do have one question- if there are gaps where the panel meets, how do you fill them up while welding together?

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    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  10. #289
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Great work Dave! That's a major step forward too!

    As for filling gaps, there's a couple ways I do it. I either put a thin metal backer behind it to keep it from blowing out, or I use thick copper sheet behind it. The weld wont stick to the copper, so you can move it along as you fill the weld.
    The sheet metal backer will be stuck there after the weld, so if it might show somewhere I wont back it with sheet metal. But it does make the area stronger and easier to weld and not blow out.

    I've also got a stepping tool I use, but that would be used before getting to the point you're at. It steps the edge of the metal the thickness of the metal, so it can slip behind the adjoining piece and have no gaps. But this tool wont work well for curved areas, as it flattens the metal as it offsets it.
    Vall

  11. #290
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    I agree with Vall. Copper is the best way to gently tack the sheet metal without warping. I’ve taken 3/4 copper pipe and beat the end flat with a hammer leaving the rest as a handle. This way you can not only reach hard to get places but you can also contour the flat copper to fit your shape you need.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

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