dsb's chevy gasser build
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Thread: dsb's chevy gasser build

  1. #1
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    dsb's chevy gasser build

    Well, time for me to join the party. My first stint on here I was building a 1949 chevy styleline 2 door gasser. Ran into money problems and went back to HD choppers. Well, sold my bike and decided I was going to go another direction. I started with my running gear first since that is where most of the money is. So, without further ado, here we go!


    For the motor- it is a mid 70's 350 bored .040. Camel hump heads with screw in studs, comp cams muthr thumpr, Edelbrock air gap intake, edelbrock carb, new pistons, polished crank etc...

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    Transmission is early 80's TH350 with 56000 miles on it. I put a B&M shift kit in and a new pan. Should be in good shape there.....

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    Rear end is out of a 1997 Trans Am WS6 with 15x10 wheels on it.

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    Front tires are morose drag skinnys

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    continued next post....
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

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  3. #2
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Just picked this up today- 1950 chevy truck axle set up. Great shape, spindles are rock solid, all I need to do is buy the kit to put disc brakes on it. 50 bucks!

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    And the best deal yet was this 1948 styleline frame from Arizona. still had the factory brake master cylinder and all lines on it for 100 bucks! Not a speck of rust that needs attention. Looks like it came from the factory.

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    Scored a set of bucket? seats from one of those hotel vans they pick you up in the airport with for free. Will re cover and find sliders for them but pretty comfy.

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    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  4. #3
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Attached stand offs on the inside frame rails for holding brake, fuel and power lines. If you have not heard of BungKing.com check them out.

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    Started marking center lines of current front and rear tires so I get the replacements in the same spot. I actually saved my notes from the last build so I won't even need a body yet to get them on. The rear axle is going under the springs.

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    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

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  6. #4
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Wow Dave you are on your way. My jaw dropped when I got done reading and seeing your posts. I have the same front axle on my MG with the disc conversion kit and mid seventies bearings rotors and calipers.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  7. #5
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmhotrod View Post
    Wow Dave you are on your way. My jaw dropped when I got done reading and seeing your posts. I have the same front axle on my MG with the disc conversion kit and mid seventies bearings rotors and calipers.
    Thanks Mario! Where did you buy the disc conversion kit from? Speedways website is a bit confusing as I am still relatively new to the straight axle game.
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  8. #6
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Unfortunately I purchased mine locally who ordered it for me. I didn’t know better back then. I can look at speedway and see if it’s like mine later for you.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  9. #7
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmhotrod View Post
    Unfortunately I purchased mine locally who ordered it for me. I didn’t know better back then. I can look at speedway and see if it’s like mine later for you.
    I think I found them but it says I have to machine my spindles? Is that right?
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  10. #8
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Speedway's site is where I got my disc brake conversion. There's really two options there and they are Chevy or Ford bolt pattern. But they also offer two disc diameters, and I prefer the smaller rotors for clearance for any wheel. Here's the link to what you need for your axle if you go Chevy pattern. No machining needed.

    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Delux...ckup,4622.html

    Good to note the wheelbase length, but don't get hung up on keeping it stock length, or it will look goofy when it's raised higher! Most people go 1"-2" forward with the front axle to keep it centered or slightly forward when swapping in a straight axle. I went 1.5" on my Falcon, and 1" on my Austin.

    Be careful with piston choice when using the small chamber camel hump heads, or your compression will end up too high, and your engine will ping even on premium octane gas! I'd go with 10cc dished pistons to work with those small 62cc combustion chambers.
    I went with flat tops on my Austin and camel humps, and my compression is high enough I need to add octane booster, or race fuel to my premium gas to avoid detonation.
    Vall

  11. #9
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsb View Post
    I think I found them but it says I have to machine my spindles? Is that right?
    If it’s a Chevy truck spindle mine needed a spacer on the inside to accommodate the rotor grease seal and space out the bearing to line up with the caliper bracket. Which came with the kit.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  12. #10
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1946Austin View Post
    Speedway's site is where I got my disc brake conversion. There's really two options there and they are Chevy or Ford bolt pattern. But they also offer two disc diameters, and I prefer the smaller rotors for clearance for any wheel. Here's the link to what you need for your axle if you go Chevy pattern. No machining needed.

    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Delux...ckup,4622.html

    Good to note the wheelbase length, but don't get hung up on keeping it stock length, or it will look goofy when it's raised higher! Most people go 1"-2" forward with the front axle to keep it centered or slightly forward when swapping in a straight axle. I went 1.5" on my Falcon, and 1" on my Austin.

    Be careful with piston choice when using the small chamber camel hump heads, or your compression will end up too high, and your engine will ping even on premium octane gas! I'd go with 10cc dished pistons to work with those small 62cc combustion chambers.
    I went with flat tops on my Austin and camel humps, and my compression is high enough I need to add octane booster, or race fuel to my premium gas to avoid detonation.
    Thanks for the link Vall! I did see in my notes that on my other one I did move it forward of the center line 1 inch. Heading out to lunch soon to pick up some 2x3 inch metal stock to make perches for the springs. As for pistons my engine guy said the same thing so I got some dished pistons will put me right where I need to be. My engine guy has been drag racing for over 30 years and is setting me up for a great street/ light to light car!

    Now I just have to figure out the torque converter.
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

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