dsb's chevy gasser build - Page 24
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Thread: dsb's chevy gasser build

  1. #231
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    Dave

    when I saw your latest close up photo posting and remark about how you thought the shackles weren't correct in the upwards position I was going to take photos of the shackles on my 53 and my 69 work truck to show you that they both are in the upwards position. Air shocks are definitely the cheapest and easiest way to go.
    Steve Hidden Content MOB in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

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  3. #232
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbauman2 View Post
    when I saw your latest close up photo posting and remark about how you thought the shackles weren't correct in the upwards position I was going to take photos of the shackles on my 53 and my 69 work truck to show you that they both are in the upwards position. Air shocks are definitely the cheapest and easiest way to go.
    Its funny, I do not remember them being like that when I first took the car apart. Then I looked up an old manual and boom. There they were. Easy peasy.
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  4. #233
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsb View Post
    OK. That sounds good Vall. I intend to put some air shocks on there to stiffen the rear up anyway so the tires won't rub on the fender.
    Do yourself a favor and install bump stops over the axle on the frame also Dave! That way in a worse case scenario no matter what happens the axle will be stopped before the tires hit the fenders. I bought a pair of poly bump stops from Autozone for about $8 and mounted them to 2" box tubing. Then bolted them to holes above the axle that existed. (Probably for shorter bump stops?) I can run my air shocks at lower pressure, and still not worry about the tires messing up my fenders.
    Vall

  5. #234
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    OK fellas, I picked the hottest day to take the motor apart and finish all the little things. Torque the heads and set the rockers. I noticed that when I was doing the very first cylinder, when I backed the nut off, the screw in stud was coming out. Do I need some red loctite on there?
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  6. #235
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsb View Post
    OK fellas, I picked the hottest day to take the motor apart and finish all the little things. Torque the heads and set the rockers. I noticed that when I was doing the very first cylinder, when I backed the nut off, the screw in stud was coming out. Do I need some red loctite on there?
    You need to torque those studs in Dave. Are they studs with the hex? I used permatex black then torqued them in. They shouldn't come out with rocker nut unscrewing. Are you using Poly locks or just regular nuts?
    Rocker Studs (screw-in) Engine Oil 50 ft-lbs.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  7. #236
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmhotrod View Post
    You need to torque those studs in Dave. Are they studs with the hex? I used permatex black then torqued them in. They shouldn't come out with rocker nut unscrewing. Are you using Poly locks or just regular nuts?
    Rocker Studs (screw-in) Engine Oil 50 ft-lbs.
    They do NOT have the hex head between the 2 threads. If I decide to but the ones with the hex head on there, do I have to have the stud boss cut down?
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  8. #237
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Here is what they look like. They came with the heads when I bought them.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  9. #238
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I'd toss all of those Dave. The studs with a nut that tightens against the head surface are much stronger. Do your heads not have a machined surface around the threaded hole for a nut to bed against? If they don't then you might have to have them machined, or use those studs with Loctite. Hope they're machined, and you can just swap them out.
    Vall

  10. #239
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1946Austin View Post
    I'd toss all of those Dave. The studs with a nut that tightens against the head surface are much stronger. Do your heads not have a machined surface around the threaded hole for a nut to bed against? If they don't then you might have to have them machined, or use those studs with Loctite. Hope they're machined, and you can just swap them out.
    nope. they are not machined. well, at least I am pretty sure they are not. I will look when I get home but I am almost positive.
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

  11. #240
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    I was

    surprised to see that the studs hadn't been made to accept an allen wrench to install them with. I'm thinking that whoever installed those didn't want to go the expense of having the boss' machined flat. The other thing is that most of the time when you go to the expense of the machine work most guys will also install pushrod guide plates. If you're going to use the ones you have I'd definitely use red loctite as you mentioned. My other thought is that since the bosses weren't machined they were probably drilled and tapped by the dude you got them from. You really want to make sure when you install them that they have a nice tight fit and there's no wobble as you're screwing them in other wise there's a good chance you're going to be pulling a stud out.
    Steve Hidden Content MOB in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

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