'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 48
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Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #471
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Had one of those moments last night just as I was about to hit the sack. Hate when this happens, as it usually means I'll wake up worrying about it. One of the things I also did yesterday was install leaf spring clips on my rear spring packs. They arrived in the mail, and in order to align the springs I loosened the U bolts and tapped the springs all in alignment. Got the clips on both spring packs, and moved on to the next project!
    Then last night I suddenly remembered I never re-tightened the U bolts! Glad I remembered, but wish it would have been earlier so I could have ran out and done it then. Instead I was looking at the ceiling and hoping I'd remember it today!
    Vall

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  3. #472
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    After applying the burl wood vinyl to one end of the dash it became pretty apparent that it was going to be a bit too much. Plus it looked like it might need a chrome trim strip to edge it and look finished. So I scaled down and just put the gauge panel and clock blank off plate in burl wood. Just enough to offset the ivory and give some contrast.







    The old radio doesn't work, but I kinda like the look of it, so I'll keep it in the dash and hide another CD player under the seat.
    Vall

  4. #473
    Senior Member dsb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1946Austin View Post
    Got so caught up in working on the '39 today that I lost track of time. Missed our car club Tuesday night get together at the local pizza parlor. But it was worth it as the day was pretty productive.
    I got out the paint again and finished up painting the undercarriage, including the rearend. Then made up the mounts for my rear axle snubbers and got those mounted to the frame rails. Happened to be a 3/8" body bolt right where it needed to go, so used that as an easy mounting bolt for one hole.
    After that I removed the drag link and tierod and hung both up to shoot paint on them too. Then I cut the 1/4" rods I bent for the rear fender radius, and fit them to the openings. A few hundred tiny little tacks later they were on and I ground the welds all smooth.
    I got to looking at the inside of the fender where the rod sits against the fender, and figured the round rod left a perfect place for crud to sit and maybe rust. So mixed up a little Duraglass and ran a bead all along the rod inside to make sure anything will run off and not sit in there.
    Never got to fabbing the shock mounts, but ordered a pair of shocks for a late 50's Chevy 1/2 ton.
    Hey Vall, what paint are you using for the underside?
    Dave

    I wish I was half the man my dog thinks I am!

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  6. #474
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsb View Post
    Hey Vall, what paint are you using for the underside?
    I always use plain old Rustoleum black enamel. And I always brush it or roll most of it. For the crevices and tight spots I use gloss black engine enamel in spray cans. I take the nozzle and spray tube off a can of brake cleaner and shoot paint into all those tight places a brush or roller wont fit.
    It's time consuming to paint it all this way, but it really holds up well. And Rustoleum was designed to encapsulate any minor rust left on the surface, which it does well. I painted my Austin the same way about 9 years ago, and it still looks like new. I get under it each spring with a brush and bucket of soapy water and give it a cleaning to start the year. Never see any signs of it going bad, but it has lost some of the gloss and looks semigloss now.
    Vall

  7. #475
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Got all my brake lines bent up, double flared and terminated. Only forgot one fitting while flaring ends, and it was long enough to trim the flare off and slip a new fitting on before flaring again. I'll have to start at the master cylinder and tighten all the fittings later, but didn't want to do it today.



    And a picture of the front suspension and those painted tierod and drag link.

    Vall

  8. #476
    Senior Member ol blue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1946Austin View Post
    Thanks Gary. I've never owned a hotrod with an OD trans, so the 700r4 will be a new thing for me. I wont be doing a lot of drag racing with the '39, but I hope to occasionally drive it to the annual Billetproof drags and make a few passes with it.
    How did you do your lock up converter? I bought a pressure switch that's supposed to unlock or lock it when it comes to a low rpm, and lock it up at higher pressures or rpm's. Supposed to tie the circuit to a keyed ignition circuit, or toggle switch. Haven't gotten to that part yet, and hoping I chose the right part to do it.
    I put this car together about 20 yrs. ago with a Chevette engine and transmission. The trans wasn't overdrive but did have a lockup. I used 2 relays in series, the 1st wired normally open and the 2nd normally closed. The 1st was actuated by a push button to engage the lock up. The 2nd was actuated by the brake lights to drop the lock up out. Since I used a momentary push button, it seems to me I had to loop a jumper wire from the output of the second relay to the control input of the 1st relay to keep it energized and locked up. It worked well for a while and then quit unlocking. I don't think I used heavy enough or maybe not continuous duty relays. I never tried to fix it, I just ran without it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 001.jpg  
    Gary

  9. #477
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Looks good Vall your lines went in much faster than mine...I see you went with a Fancy alloy manual propositioning valve...very pretty...............lol
    Lash

  10. #478
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Yep Vall it looks amazing. Good choice on the dash too. All looks professional build.
    great job.

    ps love the rustoleum too
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  11. #479
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Gary, I bought a Shift Technologies kit that has the solenoid fittings, and wiring for about $35. It didn't come with the electrical connector so had to buy a new one for $11. This and a toggle switch (if I want one) will make the 700r4 do it's thing I hope.
    Vall

  12. #480
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    Looks good Vall your lines went in much faster than mine...I see you went with a Fancy alloy manual propositioning valve...very pretty...............lol
    The front lines took all the time. The back line was just the bend to the prop valve, and then strapping it to the frame underneath, and a bend at the axle. Pretty fast and simple. I did the adjustable prop valve just because it always seems I need the adjustment to get the right combo of disc drum stopping power. And they're really pretty cheap at around $32 at my local decent auto parts store.
    Vall

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