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'39 Chevy Coupe project.

183K views 2K replies 24 participants last post by  1937Austin 
#1 ·
Nothing really to report, but figured I'd start this here vs. keep posting on the swap meet thread. So here's the same images from the swap meet.











The seller delivered it late yesterday afternoon during another downpour of rain. So even assessing the car just wasn't any fun after getting soaked unloading it. And unloading proved to be a chore too!
First the seller trailer had a 3/4" plywood deck that was rotted, so one rear tire sunk into the deck creating a hole! Then as we rolled it off the front tire turned with no steering box. As I went up to turn it the other tire was pointed a different direction! That's when I looked underneath and noticed the tierods weren't connected! Independent front wheels didn't make steering it off the trailer very easy!
Finally got it off, and then with a guy on each front wheel we tried to push it into position and keep the wheels parallel. Wasn't easy, but got it done. Then I simply covered it up, and went inside to dry out.
But some really good news too! I never looked at the title, or asked what state it was from. But turned out to be a current Oregon clear title, and a matching vin tag he had inside the same envelope! So it wont even need a vehicle inspection like an out of state car would need! One less hassle, and expense for me!
Hopefully we'll get a break in the rain someday, and I can get all the parts out of the car, and get a closer look at what I'm up against with the rust repairs.
 
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#910 ·
And I'd welcome the help too!
I talked with the guy who painted my Austin, and he basically told me to just give it a good coat of rattle can black before he installs the glass. Since everything outside the glass will get sanded or scuffed he didn't think what I painted it with was as important as it just getting paint. He said the epoxy sealer was OK too, but if I wanted a little more then paint it.

Got home from the doctor around 11:00 a.m., and made a sandwich. Then headed to the shop to do a quick masking job on the windows, and grille. After that I went over the whole car with 360 grit pad to scuff it, and prep it for high build primer. Of course going over the whole car by hand revealed I wasn't really ready! I found I'd totally forgot the chin piece under the grille which I'd pounded out, but never given a skim coat. And the front of the passenger side front fender had some tiny ripples in a 5" area. So had to mix up a little more filler and hit both.
Once I finished I looked out side and it wasn't bright outside anymore! Looked at my phone and it was 6:30 already! Where did those 7 hrs. go to???
 
#912 ·
Time certainly flies when I'm working on the cars.
Although I'm not blind, I do wear glasses when working on parts of the build where I want to see minor imperfections. But it seems the braille method still shows up things my eyes miss. Funny how a thin sheet of sandpaper and my fingers can detect imperfections my eyes miss. Once I feel them, then it seems my eyes can easily see what I felt!
 
#913 ·
Well it's all one color now, but had a few small mishaps. Of course the usual runs here and there on vertical surfaces where I either moved too slow, or got too close. But also one ugly wrinkle on top of the rear fender that looks like something was on the surface? Not sure what as I wiped it all down with a prep solvent, and again this morning with a tack cloth. But it will need to be stripped down and shot again in this small area.





 
#914 ·
Got my side windows all installed today! Actually went super easy for a change, and they fit perfectly.





My buddy who sells accessories stopped by and dropped off my side mirrors, so had to test fit them too. Right side is the convex type so I can see that side better.
Did some sanding of runs, and filled a few more little imperfections I'm still finding. Got my license plate light and bracket reconnected so I can be legal to drive it out to have the windshield installed.

 
#917 ·
Thanks guys!
Appears my plan to get glass in front and back are sidelined this week. After a much drier and warmer April, our weather appears to have turned around and we're paying for it with a cool wet May. No dry weather in the 7 day forecast, so I guess I'l redirect my efforts towards interior work. Need to get the masonite to do interior panels, but 3 passes through Home Depot's lot showed me lines waiting to enter, so I drove away not wanting to stand there waiting. Have to try again this week, or drive out to a farther Lowes and see if they have it.
 
#918 ·
Looks like something changed with the rules today as Home Depot had no line outside, and walked right in this morning! I bought two sheets of panel board and hauled them home. Made paper patterns for kick panel, doors, and 1/4 panels, and then traced them onto the panel board. Cut out the 6 pieces, and drill holes for the window cranks. They're ready for covering whenever I get to that point in the build. I'd like to do carpet first, but I've got an area on the floor I think needs to be filled in to make the carpet job easier.
The low spot where it drops down behind the seats will cover easier if I fill it in to flatten it up to the flat panel on the rear floor.



It's just those two small dips I'd like to fill, but not sure what to use? I thought maybe I'd just cut sheet metal to cover them, and screw it to the front of the wood platform? Remove the floor insulation first, and just use construction adhesive to attach it to the floor metal, then cover with sound insulation again? Hate to start welding, grinding, and doing all that for such a small job.
Have to think on it, and decide before I do the carpet.
 
#919 ·
Years ago my daughter wanted some new fangled MP3 player, stereo system, and she gave me the one in her car after they put the whiz bang one in.
It's a nice JVC radio and CD player, which is all I really want. So I cut out the dash insert to accept the new stereo, and mounted it in. I bought a pair of 5" speakers way back then also, as I planned to put it all in my Falcon. But the Falcon was so loud I figured I'd never hear it, so it all got set aside then. So it will go into this project and be all I need for the car.
I need to figure out how my materials measure up for the black carpet and diamond black vinyl, so I know if the trunk divider gets black carpet on it, or the diamond pattern vinyl. I think I've got enough vinyl, but hard to say for sure until I lay it out. Sometimes trying to get things aligned ends up using more material than I thought.
 
#920 ·
Found a place in Oklahoma City that sells both original style headliners, and perforated newer style vinyl headliners. The newer style are about $100 cheaper, and will go better with my interior plan, so ordered one from him off Ebay. Had a little glitch with Ebay as I typed in "1939 Chev coupe", but in typical Ebay fashion it brought up the headliner, and after hitting the "buy" button it read, "1939-40 Ford"!!! Crap!
I called the guy and he said no problem, he'd fix it on his end and send the correct Chevy headliner.
 
#921 ·
70 degrees here today, and perfect weather for a drive, and car projects! So took the Austin on a 35 mile drive, and then when I got home I went to work on the '39 Chevy.
I cleared out the interior and sprayed black paint on all the jams and pillars, so when my headliner arrives I'm ready to install it. Then wiped down the floors, and began fitting the black carpet. It was close when I measured it, and by the time I finished all I had left was a handful of little pieces!





Next I'm going to start covering the panels I built for the divider and side panels.





Have two more 6"x 9" tri axial speakers on order for the divider panel. so will need to cut holes for those also once they arrive, and before I cover the back panel.
 
#922 ·
Sanded and fought all my bows into the loops on the new headliner. Man those are a battle to get the curved ends fed through the loops, and even worse after the first one! Got it marked up for center, and hung it from all 5 bows. The first two are just wire bows, but the last three are stamped out and screw in place at each end.



Plenty of extra material, so sure no issues worrying about whether it might be close in places! Once I got it hung I began pulling it forward, and then used 3M spray adhesive to attach it around the windshield opening, and clipped it with small clips to hold it while I worked it back to the rear window. Then glued and clipped it back there also. Worked it side to side with more glue and clips until it was smooth. The 3M glue is nice because you can pull it back off if you do so immediately, so working ripples out is easier.
Still need to steam it, but it's pretty smooth, and just some folds from shipping that need to relax a bit.



Got the interior cut to shape, and covered the kick panels in smooth black vinyl. The rest will get the diamond pattern. Reinstalled my shifter and boot, and the bucket seats too.









 
#923 ·
Timing.
Seems like it rarely works out as I'd hope. I finally found a shop that told me he'd do my windshield and rear window installation. Scheduled the date for June 12th, as that was his first opening. Then 2 hours later the surgeon's office calls and tells me my hernia surgery is approved and scheduled for.....June 12th!
So have call the shop now and see if their 2nd date of June 18th is still open.
 
#926 ·
Thank you Mario!
I found the missing escutcheons for the handles I need today. United Pacific, (the same company I bought the window knob rebuild kits from) sells repops for $3 ea. so having my friend who sells UP order me up 6 of them.

I couldn't figure out how to finish the headliner over the doors. Nothing left on my car, and nothing I saw anywhere online to see how they were done? So I just decided today to finish it off like the 50's and 60's cars did with a trim strip. They used a piece of sheet metal above each door to tuck the edge into, leaving a smooth rolled edge above the doors.
I cut sheet metal strips, and used self tapping screws to attach them. Then used a putty knife to slightly bend them, and stuffed the material doubled over under the edge. It worked great, and seems to be holding as designed.
The 39 has staple strips above the windshield, but nothing around the back window. I'm guessing it had a staple strip also, but can't tell where it would go? Need to figure that out as I just glued it around the window, and need something more to ensure it wont release and drop out. It needs glue and staple strips.
 
#927 ·
After a couple days I went out to the shop yesterday and the headliner had released the glued area around the back window! It's 3M spray adhesive, but seems not to hold well. I could press it back down, and it held great again, but not sure how long?
I read my shop manual and it says the headliner is glued and "tacked" around the window, but no sign of how it could be tacked, or what it can tack to? I questioned this on the '37-'39 Chev forum, but got no answers. So today I decided to try a little bit time consuming fix that should hold it.
I re-glued it around the window, and then got out my rivet gun and drill 1/8" holes through the headliner and steel framework. Riveted it every 3" on the straight section, and every 1.5" or so in the corners. It should sure hold now, and the rivet heads are thin enough it wont interfere with the weatherstrip or garnish molding.
Started another deep cleaning, but had to quit early. Tomorrow I'll back it out to the front and after blowing off the dust I'll begin washing the engine, frame, suspension and whatever else has tons of dust.
 
#928 ·
Cleanup day. Pulled the coupe into the driveway and mixed up a bucket of suds. Sprayed it off with the air hose everywhere first, and then washed it down and scrubbed with bristle brush. Lots of overspray on the newly painted frame rails, so scuffed them and shot another coat of gloss black engine enamel.
After that I remembered I forgot to install the lap belts I got, so removed the bolts on the seats and installed the belts. Cleaned up inside and out, and touched up black paint wherever. The engine survived the build without much dirt, so a quick dusting, and hose down got it looking good again.
Decided I'm just going to leave it in primer for the summer unless I find somebody who can paint it reasonably and then I'll have it done.









 
#929 · (Edited)
Hey Vall. Those wheels and primer color body are great combo. I’m really liken that 39 body style. I never really liked the fat fender years Before but your cars got my attention. Great job.


by the way I know it’s too late but the 3m black weatherstrip adhesive works good at the outside edging of the headliner with the black plastic wind lace to hide the edge. I forget if you said you didn’t have an edge or not.
 
#930 ·
Thanks Mario. Appreciate the comments!

And the 3M weatherstrip tip is great also! I have 4 places that just end with the edge showing, and was unsure what to do. Not much shows at these places, two are the "A" pillars where it just ends and had maybe 1/2" raw edge showing. The other two are the B pillars where it goes vertical along the door opening side. The opposite side ends under the 1/4 windows, but nothing along the door opening. I had planned on making a filler panel the width of the B pillar to finish it, but using the adhesive would be much easier, and look much better!!
I assume I'd just mask along the edge, and then apply it to hide the edge?
 
#931 ·
Keep in mind that adhesive needs to be on both surfaces and need to tack dry then push together and it should stay put.
 
#936 ·
Ha! Nothing to this glass installation! Got bored this afternoon and knowing I had this nifty glass suction cup tool, I thought I'd give the rear glass a try. I put the weatherstripping on the glass, but it kept falling away on the bottom. So duct taped it to the glass at bottom center to hold it. Then used 12 awg insulated electrical wire in the rubber channel as a pull cord, and sprayed soap all over the weatherstrip.
Using this suction cup tool to hold it in place, I began pulling the wire and the rubber lip pulled right over the opening! When it got to the end the window popped into place perfectly! I was surprised how quick and easy it was. Maybe a few minutes total to install it. Piece of cake. Gonna try the windshield halves next, and maybe get this all done sooner, and save $300. They wanted $125 just for the back window.

 
#939 ·
awesome Vall. Nothing to it. I did my glass on the 35 back in 2009-10. It’s been so long I don’t even remember doing it. Ha. Glad you figured it out. It’s like a square body pu truck back glass.
 
#938 ·
Really a little tough to take pictures during the process Dave when it takes both hands, and can't really stop during the process or the glass can slip out and crash if I let go before it's done. I can describe it, but that's about all I can do.
I put the rubber all around the glass, and taped it to the glass at bottom center so it wouldn't droop away from the glass and fight me. I made sure the duct tape was only on the side of the rubber and glass so it wouldn't be trapped under the rubber once it pulled in place.
Then I attached the suction cup tool dead center on the glass so I could hold the glass. Starting bottom center I fit the 14 awg wire into the lip of the weatherstrip, making sure it was pushed down into the lip. Worked it all around the rubber until I got back to the start point, and left a foot of wire hanging out on both ends. Mixed up some car wash soap diluted 50-50 with water in a spray bottle. Sat the bottle on the roof to keep it handy, and grabbed the suction tool and sat the glass through the window opening. I guided it over the bottom lip of the opening with the two wire ends laying outside. I could only barely get the rubber lip started over the steel lip, but I began to pull each wire a few inches, and working back and forth the rubber began to overlap the steel lip. Just kept pulling back on the glass as I worked each end of the pull wires alternately, and kept spraying a lot of soapy water on the seal, and metal as I went. When it was almost all but maybe a few inches pulled over, those last few inches took more force to pull, so went just an inch on each side and more soapy water to finish it. But it suddenly popped the last of the rubber lip over, and the whole window and rubber moved outward a good 1/4"-3/8" when it did.
After that it's just installing the inside trim to ensure the rubber is held in place permanently. It will also get some sealer under the lip soon to ensure it doesn't let water leak in around the rubber. Trying to find the right sealer that has a small tip I can work under the rubber as I go all around the window.
Since my car has fresh primer on it I used my 3M masking sheet material to protect the area below the window. It's a pre taped roll of blue visqueen that's 18" wide. So I just taped it below the opening, and spread it side to side to catch excess soapy water that might run down during the install. It worked great, and nothing got on the fresh primer.
 
#940 ·
By the way I found this interior pic on my 35 from a factory interior finish car for sale pic. Interesting how they finished the top roof area below the headliner.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Mode of transport Window Fixture
 
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