'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 67
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Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #661
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I'm confused? It took all of an hour with a stripper disc to remove the rust from the passenger side fender. I'd expect the driver's side to go even quicker. And the driver's side appears to have no filler. Pass. side has very little, so can't see going after either too aggressively. It will take some time to ensure they're nice, and not get any flat spots, but not sure I'll be in them 30 hours, even with my limited skills. Hope I'm not wrong!
    Vall

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  3. #662
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Hey Vall you probably already know this ...but drill a very small hole at the end of the crack in the one fender, to stop it from going any further...obviously before you weld it up
    Lash

  4. #663
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    Hey Vall you probably already know this ...but drill a very small hole at the end of the crack in the one fender, to stop it from going any further...obviously before you weld it up
    I will, and I'll also put sheet metal behind it before I weld just to keep it from blowing out. I can grind off whatever doesn't stick afterwards on the back.


    Got the grille bolted in place today, and it fit great! Before bolting it in I made up a sheet metal plate for the chin piece just to reinforce the area. I shot it with etching primer on the back and then pop riveted it in. Gave the top side a coat of more primer so I can just paint it later.



    One of the upper fender supports that bolts into the headlight housing was gone, so I cut up some cardboard and made a template off the other. Reversed it and bent it up from a piece of 18 ga. sheet steel. The original is a stamped sheet metal piece, so I duplicated that. Had to cut internal corners, and then weld it together after making the bends.



    I drilled the single hole with the unibit, and then clamped the bracket under the fender and drilled the two holes that go inside the headlamp. Bolted it up under the fender, and I'll make braces that go from the frame to these later.



    Bolted the grille in with 1/4-20 bolts, and the biggest fender washers I have for better support.



    Then I made up another sheet metal plate for the top of the grille. This will serve several purposes. Strengthening the grille so it wont flex. Keeping the incoming air trapped so it has to go through the radiator, and wont go over the top of it. And a place to mount my front hood pins that will hold the front of the hood down.



    Tried the hood back on and the fit was much better! It needs very little beyond some surface grinding to lower the side I built up. I also needed to take some material off the edge that contacts the grille top trim. It touched on the driver's side, but was 1/4" off on the passenger side. So I traced along the edge with a felt pen and took some off with the flapper disc.





    You can see here where the passenger side was just a tiny bit higher.



    A little skim coat of filler and some hand blocking, and the hood will be ready for primer.

    Vall

  5. #664
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Looking good making great headway....
    Lash

  6. #665
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    Looking good making great headway....
    Thanks Lash! The steel fenders sure are a game changer! Everything else is going to go much easier now.

    I've come up with a plan to install the two front hood pins underneath the nose of the hood, so they'll be hidden. Then I can reach through the side opening to pull the front pins instead of having them poke through that curved area. Should be cleaner, and nicer looking.
    Vall

  7. #666
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Awesome job. Looks great. Your matching and lining up pieces that weren’t a matched set. That’s a challenge and you did great.
    To save a lot of grinding on the back side when I have to weld thinner sheet metal I take 3/4 or 1” thin wall copper and smash it flat leaving the rest long enough to use as a handle to reach the curved underside of the areas that would be hard to reach and weld at the same time. The copper will absorb a lot of heat so you can have better control over your stitching. Brass probably works better but chances are you won’t be able to flatten to a curve shape with a handle to use it without going to great lengths. Anyway I hope you get it.
    Last edited by mmhotrod; 02-14-2020 at 06:59 AM.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  8. #667
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Mario the bracket I bent up has the odd angled bend needed to straighten up the bracket from the fender angle. So when I bent it I didn't make a full 90 degree cut on each side, and that allowed the metal to overlap with the angle bend. So those were an easy weld, and gave strength to the bent area.
    But I'll definitely try your method on the fender crack to see if I can keep it from burning through like most old metal often does for me. I have some brass rod here that might fit inside the rolled edge. I'd just need to drill it and make a handle to hold it in place as I stitch the outside metal.
    Vall

  9. #668
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Lash

  10. #669
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    That's the guy I got the fenders from. Looked at all those parts while I was there. He did have a decent grille, but not as good as mine is now. It could be better than mine, but would need more work, and I have plenty of that already.
    Vall

  11. #670
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Fired up the heater and went to work building braces today so I could get the jackstands out from under the front fenders. I made up these vertical braces to hold it up.





    Once bolted in it felt really solid. But then I grabbed the fenders and wiggled them laterally and they moved quite a bit. There's a lot of tin hanging out there, so I made lateral braces from the frame out to existing holes in the lower fender lip.
    I grabbed my nutsert tool and installed nuts into a bunch of existing holes, which saved a lot of time, and let me use blind holes. The more I use the nutserts, the more I love them. Used up all my 5/16 nutserts, so need to order more soon!
    After that I got out the '32 Ford radiator, and built a pair of bottom brackets to hold it. The mounts were 1.5" narrower than my frame rail width, so I added 2.5" to the bottom of each frame rail with plates, and bolted them in to the frame lip. One hole was there, so only needed to add a 2nd to each side. Then a single bolt through the radiator mount, and some rubber under it to isolate it.



    Radiator is REALLY close fitting! The brackets on the upper sides are less than 1/4" from the fenders, and that's moving it back close to the fan to get to a wider area.





    I still have to fabricate upper mounts from some point to the two side brackets. There's also a center top plate that could be used, but I'd like to not use the two stock rods back to the firewall. If I can locate some nice chrome, or polished aluminum 3/8"rods I'd use them, but otherwise I make a bracket to tie the radiator into the grille top.
    Top hose is a gimme to find and install. Bottom is a very short 90 degree hose that isn't maybe 12" total. Might be interesting to see what i can find in a 1.75" hose that's a short 90!
    Vall

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