'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 53
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Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #521
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Primer

    Quote Originally Posted by 1946Austin View Post
    No problem with warming/cooling cycles here lately! Today's temps were low of 44 degrees, and high of 46 degrees. And tomorrow will be slightly better with lows of 46 and high of 51 degrees. I plan to warm the shop up tomorrow to around 65 degrees, and give it numerous wipe downs, plus go over it with scotch brite pads and another wipe down prior to shooting it.
    Lash can you elaborate on why priming it one panel at a time would be better? I thought it would be best to get it coated as soon as possible to eliminate flash rusting? If there's any doubt I'll do whatever to ensure it's got a good base before shooting the epoxy sealer. I only want to do this once.
    Vall doing a section at a time only applies if you do a heat lamp warm up...in this weather I like to get the metal up to about 90 degrees and let it cool down to 70 (sweating it) then give it a quick pad scrubbing then wipe and prime
    Lash...Washington Chapter and Member...Mean Old Bastards Club

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  3. #522
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    Vall doing a section at a time only applies if you do a heat lamp warm up...in this weather I like to get the metal up to about 90 degrees and let it cool down to 70 (sweating it) then give it a quick pad scrubbing then wipe and prime
    Thanks Lash! Makes sense to me. Mario suggested I run my twin halogen lamps directed at the surface and then turn them off while painting. My spray gun is a gravity feed and only has a 16 oz. pot, so I can't shoot a lot at one time anyway. Probably take 4 refills just to get the car all primed anyway.
    Vall

  4. #523
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Mario is right if you do not have heat lamps to get it hot, watch and see how much moister comes out of the metal...remember the epoxy system will not breath..and will encapsulate moisture...heat is your friend...you can also put the space heater inside the car...have fun...I love to paint
    Last edited by Road Angels; 12-08-2019 at 04:05 AM.
    Lash...Washington Chapter and Member...Mean Old Bastards Club

  5. #524
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Got out there this morning and put my portable heater inside the car as Lash suggested. Then ran to Home Depot for tack cloth and a bunny suit with a hood to keep the paint off me. When I got home I did a dry wipe down, and then a second. Then did a few wipe downs with the tack cloths, and mixed up some primer.
    I got my big 40 gal. air compressor out of storage, and set it up outside the shop. Then ran the hose inside and hooked up my old spray gun. I did a test spray and the darn gun wouldn't work properly. Fortunately I had a second brand new gun in the sidelines, so I grabbed it quickly and assembled it. Poured the primer in and went to work spraying. Of course I shut the heater off first and took it out of the car.
    It laid down really well, and I did as Mario suggested in a phone call, and added some "fast" reducer to make it dry quicker with low temps. I painted it in 4 sections starting with the roof, then the trunk area, and finally each side. I had an issues with the seal on the lid of my gravity feed gun, and it dripped occasionally which created some runs where it landed on wet primer. And of course I had some other runs from getting the coats too heavy. But all in all it went great, and it's done.
    I now recall how much I dislike the smell of automotive paint too! Even with a good respirator on it just doesn't really stop all the smell. At least the respirator kept me from getting a headache from the fumes!









    Vall

  6. #525
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    How many coats did you put down Vall? I was glad you mentioned respirator. We never talked about that. Very important my friend. Don’t mess with urethane epoxy. I had asthma attacks from that stuff. Protect yourself even when mixing both parts. Looks good. Lay down in the cool weather is always better than the heat and having to slow it down. Runs do happen in the cold too. You could probably wet sand the drips during the end of the cure time but be careful it has set completely. You don’t want to lift up down to the meta. Did you use all the primer you have?
    it still looks like a good canvas.
    Last edited by mmhotrod; 12-08-2019 at 07:20 PM.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  7. #526
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I only put on 2 coats Mario. I still have close to a half gallon, and will likely use it after I finish the body work and I'm getting it ready for paint. I think you mentioned I could use this same primer later?
    Vall

  8. #527
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    looks good...do not worry about drips and runs.... she is covered and will not rust...when you do the body work there is going to be plenty of boo boo's and stuff that will need to be gone back over any way...I bet putting the heater inside warmed up every thing doors and all....well except the rear fenders
    Lash...Washington Chapter and Member...Mean Old Bastards Club

  9. #528
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Yeah, I wasn't as worried about the rear fenders since they had been skim coated to true them up already. So no bare metal on them anyway. Lots of finish bodywork to do ahead, but at least I can relax and take my tme now that the bare metal is sealed.
    Finally got my -10AN to -6AN reducers, so I can build up the fuel line now. I'll also run the main battery lead now since I want to use one mounting screw to hold both straps for fuel and battery cable. Saves drilling more holes, and they will be spaced apart by the straps.
    Vall

  10. #529
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Picked up my driveline today and installed it in the '39. Then I filled the differential with friction modifier and grease. Got my taillight housings stripped and shot with etching primer, and then mounted both with new body gaskets I made from old inner tube. That's when I realized I have two driver's side housings! Crap. So the one on the passenger side would have an upside down lens if I leave it. Most wont see that, but I'll know it's there, so need to locate another.
    Put my tires and wheels back on today so I can push the car out to get the frontend set on it. I'll get my nephew to assist since he's coming over in the near future to pick up my old Suzuki quad for his son. I never use it, and he has a 10 acre farm. His 8 year old wants to drive his Polaris 750 all the time, and it's way too much. My little 230 will be better, so I'll give it to my great nephew to play on.

    Need some input on jetting my 700 cfm Demon carb. It's a vacuum secondary carb, with 4 corner jetting. It has 74's in it now, and that seems kinda large for my 350? Even with my .513" lift, 286 duration, roller cam. I think maybe something around 64-66 would be better. What do you guys think?
    Vall

  11. #530
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    I never jetted a carb with 4 corner idle circuit. I’m gonna say 64-66 is too lean. 513 cam with headers will probably take at least a 70 as a starting point. Just my gut feeling. Idle mixture screws will tell a story right away.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

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