'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 52
GasserHotRods.com is the premier All All Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Page 52 of 119 FirstFirst ... 242505152535462102 ... LastLast
Results 511 to 520 of 1182

Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #511
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,564
    I actually did mount a plate high on my driver's kick panel Mario. But then after bolting the fuse block to it I found it didn't hide the fuse block very well, so I tore it back off. I finally decided to remove the hand parking brake assembly because I wont be using that. It allowed me to drill a pair of holes to match the fuse block, and I bolted it on with 1/4-20 x 2.5" long bolts. So it can be removed in case I ever needed to.
    I'm pretty anal about grounds, but hadn't considered SS screws. I'll take that idea for sure! I drill and tap all my ground screws if possible. If the metal is thin I use screws and nuts behind as I don't care for self tappers, unless it's a last resort for grounds.
    I also didn't use the rubber body shims that came with my '39 as I prefer the body bolted direct to the frame for better grounding. It does add a little vibration transfer, but these aren't high end custom cars, so I expect a little road noise transfer anyway.
    This wiring harness is a new one for me. I've used the Speedway 20 ckt. GM harnesses previously, and love them. But this one was $85 vs. twice that for the Speedway. And it comes with a fan relay, and some features the Speedway harness doesn't have. So far I like it, and the diagrams that came with it make it very versatile for almost any year car with alternator, or generator, and old or new steering column. Takes a little longer to build, but I think it will be better when it's done.

    No work yesterday on the '39 as we had gorgeous sunny high 40's! I decided to finally break down and put the new mufflers I've had for 6 months on my Burb. So I chopped off the old, and welded in the new Walkers. I'm a bit shocked how bad the old mufflers were, as they didn't sound as bad as they looked off the truck! They literally fell apart once I cut them off! Both muffler inlets and outlets fell off, and the ends were cracked and leaking!
    I guess I got used to the drone, and rumble, but it was amazing how quiet it was on my drive to our Tue. car club meeting last night! I think I like the quiet version!
    Vall

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GasserHotRods.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #512
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,564
    Had to repair the alternator adjustment arm on the Suburban today. Of course it's been 6 years I guess that I've owned it, and after the head work the belt began slipping. But someone made up the adjustment arm, and it was too short, and sort of cobbled welds.
    So I removed the arm and cut off all the crap welds, and welded up a longer arm so the adjustment would be in the middle of the arm.
    After that I pulled the bucket seats from the '39 and cleaned up the rear floor area. Laid down the sound deadener on the floor, and inside the 1/4 panels. I ended up with almost one roll leftover, plus a roll of the foil tape also. I might put two layers on the firewall since that area transfers the most heat to the interior.

    Vall

  4. #513
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    6,844
    looks real cozy in there Vall. is that the foil from Home depot you told me to buy? i still haven't used it in the MG yet.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  5. #514
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,564
    Quote Originally Posted by mmhotrod View Post
    looks real cozy in there Vall. is that the foil from Home depot you told me to buy? i still haven't used it in the MG yet.
    Yes Mario, that's Frost King. Home Depot has it, but I bought 4 rolls off Ebay seller for a few dollars per roll cheaper. I paid a bit over $15 per roll and free shipping. It's Frost King FV516. I checked the Ebay seller I bought from and they've raised their price to $24 a roll now. HD is cheaper now than the Ebay sellers. And Amazon and Lowe's have it for $18.98 also.
    Vall

  6. #515
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,564
    Started back in on the wiring, and ran into trouble. First I decided to mount the headlight switch, and use the factory hole. I put the fuse block too close to the dash, and being pretty high up it interfered with the switch mounting. So had to move the fuse block back towards the firewall to make room. Then I got to routing wiring, and decided to make up the dash area. Got wires sorted out and hooked up all the gauges. Then went to mount the panel and my panel hit the headlight switch too!! So again I had to stop and trim the panel off as short as possible on the left end so it wouldn't hit the switch.
    Finally I got the gauges and steering column all done, and tidied up the dash wiring. Then I laid out the rear harness and saw it had tons of length. So instead of running it on the floor, I snaked it up the A pillar and above the driver's door on that side. Then dropped it down the C pillar at the rear, and into the trunk area. Still lots leftover to make up the taillights, especially since they're up high on the sides about halfway down the 1/4 panels.
    I pulled all the extra wiring out of the looms that is for items I don't have nor ever will have. Also have about 10 extra circuits I'll land on a terminal strip so if I want to ever add anything it will be easy to just land the power on the strip.
    Masked off the dash, and engine bay also, so I can begin sanding the body down to prepare to shoot epoxy sealer. Next week looks like we will get into the 50's, and if I'm ready I can add a little heat to the shop and prime the whole body.
    Vall

  7. #516
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,564
    My butt is dragging! 4 hours of non stop paint stripping with the paint stripper discs. But those "sponge" looking discs sure do a great job, and pretty fast. My little Harbor freight 4.5" angle grinder never shut off for more than a minute to move my step stool, or change locations.
    Took another hour after I quit to finish vacuuming up dust! Didn't want to use air to blow it out as I figured it would end up settling back on the car again. I'll have multiple wipe downs before it's clean enough to shoot the epoxy primer.
    The good news is I didn't find a single speck of body filler other than what I spread on the patch panels I put in. I did however find one more rust hole in the top of the cowl. Also found some dents above the rear window that appear to be from some kid climbing up on the roof. But the rest the roof is perfect, so guess they didn't get far. I think most will tap out with a hammer and dolly, and need almost no filler.
    You can maybe see them in this image about 6" above the window. Just a few ripples.









    Didn't strip the trunk lid or fenders as the lid is fiberglass, and fenders have been smoothed out already, and can just get primer now. I will eventually shoot the glass frontend, but not until it's test fitted and I know if it's ready to go on.

    Vall

  8. #517
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    6,844
    Nice canvas to work with Vall. Love old steel. Get that epoxy primer on there. Be careful with heat and cool cycles causing condensation before you shoot the primer on the bare steel.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  9. #518
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    3,197
    Mario is right you can trap a lot of moister under that type of primer...you may want to sweat that steal with heat lamps before you spray it...and do it in sections...I would even consider doing an acid etch on the whole car, or self etching primer to treat rust pits and prevent future rusting...you are making a lot of progress on this one...nice that the drip rails look in great shape....is Mikes coupe making any progress?
    Last edited by Road Angels; 12-07-2019 at 03:10 AM.
    Lash...Washington Chapter and Member...Mean Old Bastards Club

  10. #519
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,564
    No problem with warming/cooling cycles here lately! Today's temps were low of 44 degrees, and high of 46 degrees. And tomorrow will be slightly better with lows of 46 and high of 51 degrees. I plan to warm the shop up tomorrow to around 65 degrees, and give it numerous wipe downs, plus go over it with scotch brite pads and another wipe down prior to shooting it.
    Lash can you elaborate on why priming it one panel at a time would be better? I thought it would be best to get it coated as soon as possible to eliminate flash rusting? If there's any doubt I'll do whatever to ensure it's got a good base before shooting the epoxy sealer. I only want to do this once.
    Vall

  11. #520
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,564
    PS- Mike's coupe is out of my hands now. After we pulled the body he cleaned it up and shot it in epoxy sealer. Then he did a few minor repairs to the body and planned to reinstall it. But he's had bad hips for awhile, and the doctors scheduled him for a hip replacement on both hips! First will be Dec. 16th, and then the other 3 months later. So the coupe is stalled until he's done and back in good shape.
    Vall

  12. Remove Advertisements
    GasserHotRods.com
    Advertisements
     

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •