'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 59
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Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #581
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    That's Interesting

    because I've replaced the head light, running lights and tail lights and turn signals on my Harley with LED lights, none of which have heat sinks. In my job I've replaced countless tube type florescent light bulbs with the replacement LED tubes that only required the removal of the ballast and replacing the old sockets with the new ones that only require the hot and neutral lines to one socket and the ground to the fixture and they also don't have a heat sink. I replaced the 9 under counter single bulb halogen puck style lights (which created a lot of heat) in my office with 3 24" LED light strips that don't have heat sinks and don't generate any heat.
    Steve Hidden Content in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

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  3. #582
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    No transformers in LED lamps as the power supplies are electronic regardless of whether they are 120v. or 12v. These lamps say their operating range is 9vdc-32vdc, so the electronics aren't harmed by alternators that can vary voltage quite a bit at times.
    My guess is the fan is to protect the electronics from failure, or as Lash mentioned from values changing if the circuitry warms up.
    I have all LED lights in my shop and I can hold my hand on the tubes regardless of how long they've been on and they're never more than slightly warm. I'm guessing that is because of the low wattage of most LED lamps. The LED headlight "bulbs" are 36w at low beam and 72w at high beam, so a for amount higher than most LED lamps. Halogen are about 50w-55w on low beam and 2x that on high.
    Fortunately my buckets are extremely deep, so no problem with the length.
    Vall

  4. #583
    Senior Member ol blue's Avatar
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    I mis-spoke about transformers. My electrician friend told me they're called drivers and they mainly convert AC to DC, that LEDs need.
    Gary

  5. #584
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Go ahead and touch the heat sink...and you thought that LEDs run cool...not the high intensity ones.. Vall where is the heat suppose to go being trapped in a head light bucket... these types are for open back headlights...some facts...https://betterautomotivelighting.com...ght-bulbs-get/
    Last edited by Road Angels; 01-16-2020 at 02:38 AM.
    Lash

  6. #585
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    Go ahead and touch the heat sink...and you thought that LEDs run cool...not the high intensity ones.. Vall where is the heat suppose to go being trapped in a head light bucket... these types are for open back headlights...some facts...https://betterautomotivelighting.com...ght-bulbs-get/
    Headlight buckets on these old cars aren't really closed at all Lash. The entire bottom of the housing is open with a hole that's probably 3" wide, and 8" long. But if you think the area behind the headlights on a modern car is cool, I'd be suspect. It is an engine bay, and I'd suspect under hood temps can be quite high behind the headlamps. Especially since most have rubber boots over the lamps to try to keep things dry behind them.
    I think mine sitting out on the fender with the large opening will probably be cooler than under hood temps.
    Vall

  7. #586
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    It's cold here! So in order to not go stir crazy I brought my two grille halves into the basement work shop and did some work on them. I have them sanded and primed with etching primer, but they had some light pitting on the surface. And since I never planned to have the grille chromed again, I mixed up some skim coat putty and gave the grille bars a skim coat. Had to mix it in small batches as using my fingers to spread a thin coat across each grille bar was time consuming and it could set up before I finished. It took about 5 golf ball sized gobs of putty to finally get them all skim coated.
    I left it to set up, and will sand them smooth and then give it a coat or two of 2x primer before the final paint. Thinking of going with mag wheel paint that's designed to not chip or wear as easily. Maybe a graphite color that will be sort of neutral and not clash with whatever color I end up with on the body.
    Vall

  8. #587
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Vall you never put the rubber boots back on...I have put a few sets of these on ricer's..did not know that the headlight bucket on the old chevys had an opening other than for the wires to pass thru under the bottom
    Lash

  9. #588
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I always put them back on. Guess I don't know any better?

    1939 headlight buckets.

    Vall

  10. #589
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Vall you can use the rubber boot as long as it is the type that only covers the base adapter (none of the bulb) and not the early type that covers up to the piggy tail...wow that is a big hole...does the fender have the same cut out...they would look really cool with some louvers on the out board side ...for some reason I thought that they had a short stand for mounting...and not direct to the fender...been looking at to many old cars I guess....
    Lash

  11. #590
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    1938 was the last year for the stands Lash, and also the last year the housings mounted to the grille surround. When they moved to the fenders in 1939 they eliminated the stands.
    Since my car is a one piece fiberglass frontend there are no holes at all. I'll simply use a holesaw to cut one large hole that the wires run through and allow for air to escape. Then drill the 4 outboard mounting holes after that.

    I've never seen a rubber boot for halogen headlamps that touched the bulb? All that I've seen were either behind the bulb or on the socket part of the bulb. Can't imagine how the heat of the lamp wouldn't burn up the rubber if it touched it?
    Vall

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