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'39 Chevy Coupe project.

183K views 2K replies 24 participants last post by  1937Austin 
#1 ·
Nothing really to report, but figured I'd start this here vs. keep posting on the swap meet thread. So here's the same images from the swap meet.











The seller delivered it late yesterday afternoon during another downpour of rain. So even assessing the car just wasn't any fun after getting soaked unloading it. And unloading proved to be a chore too!
First the seller trailer had a 3/4" plywood deck that was rotted, so one rear tire sunk into the deck creating a hole! Then as we rolled it off the front tire turned with no steering box. As I went up to turn it the other tire was pointed a different direction! That's when I looked underneath and noticed the tierods weren't connected! Independent front wheels didn't make steering it off the trailer very easy!
Finally got it off, and then with a guy on each front wheel we tried to push it into position and keep the wheels parallel. Wasn't easy, but got it done. Then I simply covered it up, and went inside to dry out.
But some really good news too! I never looked at the title, or asked what state it was from. But turned out to be a current Oregon clear title, and a matching vin tag he had inside the same envelope! So it wont even need a vehicle inspection like an out of state car would need! One less hassle, and expense for me!
Hopefully we'll get a break in the rain someday, and I can get all the parts out of the car, and get a closer look at what I'm up against with the rust repairs.
 
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#1,018 ·
More tinkering today. I bought an alarm for the car long ago, and dinked with the seller over no indicator light LED. They finally refunded my money, and told me to keep it. I ordered an LED indicator for $1.85, and wired it in using the "valet" connector, since I'll never use that item. Same plug, so it worked fine.
Got the siren, and shock sensor wired in, but waiting on door switches to finish that. Also have two door solenoids to remote lock/unlock the doors that came with the kit, but need to pull my door panels to mount them. Another day, as I ran out of desire to work after a short time.
 
#1,019 ·
Took a look into installing the electric door locks on the '39 today, and just stuffed them back in the bag for now. Where they attach to the locking mechanism is nearly impossible to access, and if I pull it all out to add the clamp from the kit, I'm unsure how to determine where to clamp it to ensure I can still have the solenoid sitting where it needs to go. So I shelved it for now.

I decided I had enough miles to spend some time going over all the front suspension bolts. Most are grade 8 with locking nuts, so not much that can work loose, but I also had some grade 5 bolts that came with new parts, and wanted to change those out to grade 8.
The Speedway disc brake kit had two 7/16NF locking nuts missing, and I forgot I never replaced those. When I saw they were still regular nuts I got grade 8 locknuts, and figured I'd replace them today. They hold the tierod brackets to the spindles, so pretty important!
When I went to remove the nuts today they had backed off a good 1/8" from tight!! I was shocked to see this, and checked the other bolt that had a locking nut, and they were still tight. But I've had a little bit of "wandering" in my steering, and I bet this was the case. I replaced the nuts with the grade 8 locknuts, and put blue Loctite on all 4 nuts also, just for extra security!
I also replaced all the 1/2NF U bolt nuts for the springs with grade 8 nuts, and Loctited them too. Never seen U bolts with grade 5 nuts before, and didn't like the looks of them for such a critical fastener.
So with everything checked, tightened, Loctied, and changed; I took it for a short spin. The steering is noticeably crisper, and more precise, with no wandering going down the freeway. So I'm glad I took time to check everything after a few hundred miles!
 
#1,020 ·
Wow good thing you remembered to change out those tie rod nuts. Glad it fixed your problem for ya. And by the way your wife did a great job on the visors.
 
#1,021 ·
Thanks Mario! I actually noticed the bolts when I was doing more cleaning after the Exxon spill a couple weeks ago. I decided then that when I replaced the bolts, I'd do a nut and bolt torque check too. But with only one of the two bolts holding, it could have been disastrous if I had not caught it now.
 
#1,022 ·
Have you noticed the U bolts you buy on line will easily strip if your not careful? Those they sell for a Model A spring with the bracket are a joke. I welded 1/4 in plates to the crossmember and drilled them to 1/2 in with 1/2 in grade 8 bolts. There is no way I'd rely on a 3/8 soft U bolt and nuts going down the road.
 
#1,023 ·
The U bolts I got are 1/2", which surprised me since they are stock replacements for a '55-'59 Chevy truck. Chevy trucks used 7/16" U bolts, and these barely fit through the holes in the axle. I contemplated drilling the holes out, but decided if they'd go through I wouldn't open the holes.
These seem to be good quality U bolts, but the nuts didn't seem to fit well, and were somewhat sloppy. The grade 8 nuts I replaced them with are a nice fit on the U bolt threads.
 
#1,024 ·
Been having issues with my fuel cell QD filler cap. Sometimes I wrestle with it for several minutes at the pump before I get it off. I finally got irritated enough to order a different filler with a 45 degree neck, and pipe thread billet aluminum cap. It arrived this morning, so figured I'd see what it took to replace the old cap. 12 bolts on the outside, with a ring on the inside that hols the 12 nuts. Fun!
Easy to remove, and once I got to the last bolt I reached inside with my fingers to hold the ring as I removed the last bolt. It's a split ring, so I pulled it out to match it to the new filler, and all was good. Then I thought, "How do I hold the ring below, with a 1.25" filler neck on top?"
No way to reach down the neck to hold it! I started one bolt with the new neck turned to one side, but when I tried to swivel it into place the ring moved too! Fought it for awhile, an then decided to bend up two pieces of iron tie wire to make hooks on each end that I'd use to hold the ring up while assembling the filler. I slid the gasket over the wires, and then the plate one wire at a time. Pulled the ring up, and held it with the wires in one hand as I started bolts with the other. A juggling act, and I kept thinking if I dropped it I'd be fishing it out of the fuel cell with my bare hands! Fortunately after a fair amount of struggling, and some cussing, I was able to get some screws started. Then I pulled hard on the iron wire to straighten it out and pull if free of the two holes.
While the filler was out I bent the float arm up too, so it wont have over half a tank when it reads empty! Had to guess what it needed, so hope it leaves me a few gallons when it hits empty, instead of 7 gallons at empty!
And a bonus of changing the filler, (besides easily filling gas!) is I can fill gas right up to the top of the tank now. The filler is about 4" tall, so wont shut the pump off before the tank is full.
 
#1,025 ·
I changed mine for the same reason Vall. I do not remember which one I ordered now, but the inside ring had the studs mounted so all you had to do was slide it in and get one started to hold the filler neck in place. I can only imagine what a PITA it was doing it the way you had to.
 
#1,026 ·
I should have just run to the hardware store with a bolt and got 12 nuts for it Mike. Then I could have run them into the ring and put the nuts on the top side. If I have to remove it again to adjust the float, that's exactly what I'm going to do. But I might also buy longer bolts, just to make it easier to install.
 
#1,027 ·
I was invited to meet with a car club this morning, by a friend who knows me and the previous owner of my '39 Chev coupe. He told Ed he had a "surprise" for him, and to be sure he made it to breakfast today. Drove out to meet the guys, and Ed showed up late, so didn't get to see his reaction outside, but did see it inside. He was grinning when he saw me, and after saying hello he told me he was tickled to see his old '39 on the road, and done up in gasser style. He added that he was glad somebody got it who followed through with it, as he'd never have gotten it done himself. Another guy asked if he wanted his '39 back, but Ed said it was in good hands, and he couldn't afford it now.
Ed is an old Bonneville racer who runs a '51 Chevy with a 301 straight six, and a lot of other work done to it. It runs 127 mph on the salt, and he's hoping to get it to 130 mph club the next trip down. He spun it out last year at over 100 mph when the clutch began to slip, and thinks it could be close to going 130. But he said the salt is literally eating the car away! In just 6 years of running it there, the fenders, brackets, frame, and most metal parts are falling apart. Even with a pressure washing each time he gets home, it still eats everything up!
 
#1,028 ·
Took quite a long time, but finally got my replacement windshield half for my '39 Chev coupe. I guess the virus has caused a huge number of people to work on their cars, so the glass guys are swamped.
I asked for the glass to be undersized, since the last one was so tight it barely went in, which caused a stress crack later. Unfortunately all they did was make the width 1/8" shorter, but didn't adjust top to bottom width. So once I overlaid the new glass on the old, I decided I needed to modify something, or figure out how to shrink the glass.
Since sanding or grinding the glass without some sort of water cooled sander would likely have fatal results, I decided to modify the weatherstrip seal. I carefully pulled the lip back a couple inches at a time, and using my belt sander with a new 80 grit belt, I worked my way around the perimeter until I;d "shaved" the outside down a bit over 1/16" all over to reduce the total 1/8".
After that I did the same soapy water spray on the weatherstrip, and with my pull line I pushed and worked the lip over the metal. Unlike the last time, the glass went in tightly, but I didn't need to pull it in the last bit with the garnish molding.
I used my glass suction cups attached to the two halves to bump the halves left and right to ensure I got a decent gap between the glass, and away from the center strip retaining screws.

It took a couple hours, but a lot of that was setup, and cleanup afterwards. Way better than the 4.5 hrs. it took the last go around!
 
#1,030 ·
Yes it did, until I talked with the owner of the glass shop I bought my glass from.
I've spoken with him often, and he's always been extremely nice, and very interested in wanting to provide a great product. He told me several times to let him know if there's any way he can help, even if it's just answering questions, or getting feedback. So I figured I'd give him a call to let him know how this went down.
Told him the glass was still too large, and what I did to fix it. He said he "has no control over the size, as it's CNC cut from templates that have been used for years."
I asked why (when I mentioned it was too large before) he told me he'd send them a note with the order "to make it slightly smaller length and width." I had told him it could be 1/4" narrower, and 1/8" shorter.
He told me he never said that, and said all he could do was ask them to try and find a smaller piece, if they could. Well I was puzzled, but not the end of the world. I then asked him out of curiosity if the glass could be sanded or polished on the edges to reduce the size? He told me it didn't need to be, as it was surrounded with rubber. I tried to explain I just meant, could it be sanded or polished to reduce the dimensions?
At this point he began screaming at me, telling me there's no way he can special order glass, as it's made in Taiwan, and he has no control over what they do! He went on yelling and telling me if I wanted special size glass it would take 18 months to get it, and I'd probably not want my car waiting that long to drive it. Then he said in 40 years of business he'd never had any glass that didn't fit. Never had anyone ever complain about his glass not fitting, and never had anyone ever break glass trying to put it in!
I kept attempting to interrupt to remind him he'd asked me to call and give him feedback, and had even requested I talk to others to see if they'd had issues, so he might have the glass adjusted to be a better fit. But there was no stopping his ranting, until he was done. When he stopped I tried to explain I was merely calling to tell him how it went. But before I could finish my sentence he tells me he knows exactly why I called, and begins to rant again. I finally just hung up my cell phone and gave up.
About 30 seconds later my home phone rings, and it's him again. He starts up once more ranting about how long his hours and days are, and how he has so much going on, and doesn't need people he's trying to help giving him crap. Then suddenly he gets soft spoken, and says, I sincerely mean this. If you have any glass questions, or need any help with glass, call me and I'll try to answer whatever you need. ???????????
At that point I was once again as shocked as I was with his explosive rant. I was speechless, and wasn't sure what to say. So I simply hung up again without responding. It was the weirdest experience I've ever had with a company supplying car parts. I felt extremely uncomfortable for hours after the calls.
 
#1,035 ·
I had

the same problem with the front glass on my Willys Vall. I believe I posted it on the Willys thread. The precut piece I bought was just to big and cracked. I called the seller, who cuts his glass, and was told the same thing that his patterns are from originals and that there must be something wrong with the truck cab. I had a glas guy come out and he made a pattern from the cracked piece. He came back a few days later with 2 new pieces cut a bit smaller. The first one was still to big and it broke. He had a type of wet belt sander on his truck, worked the second piece a bit and it went right in. For me it was worth the $100 installation fee he charged. Car Land vehicle Vehicle Tire Wheel
Eddie, the glass guy with a shit eatin grin because the job is done!!!
 
#1,037 ·
the same problem with the front glass on my Willys Vall. I believe I posted it on the Willys thread. The precut piece I bought was just to big and cracked. I called the seller, who cuts his glass, and was told the same thing that his patterns are from originals and that there must be something wrong with the truck cab. I had a glas guy come out and he made a pattern from the cracked piece. He came back a few days later with 2 new pieces cut a bit smaller. The first one was still to big and it broke. He had a type of wet belt sander on his truck, worked the second piece a bit and it went right in. For me it was worth the $100 installation fee he charged. View attachment 103345 Eddie, the glass guy with a shit eatin grin because the job is done!!!
Well if somebody would have done my windshield for $100 I'd also have gladly paid it. But they wanted $175-$225 to do it, so I figured I could break $80 glass trying, and still be OK. It cost an extra $40 to get the 2nd piece, so I am still OK.
 
#1,039 ·
Worked on more casualties of the oil gauge line mess this morning. When I was under the car cleaning I noticed the parts I'd painted with Duplicolor Chrome paint were sticky to the touch! And if I held my hand to those parts it came off on my hands!
I thought I'd give it a chance to dry, or harden again, but it never did. I had painted my drag link, tierod, and shocks using this paint, so they had to come off to strip it. I tried various solvents, but all they did was make a mess and not totally remove it. So I finally just used the wire wheel on my grinder and it stripped the paint off quickly.
After stripping the parts I wiped them down and dried them. Then checked to be sure they weren't sticky. Shot them with primer sealer, and then a coat of VHT mag wheel paint. I had that on the axle, and it didn't react to the oil at all, so I knew it was good.
Got the parts shot, and finished wiping down under the car. Reinstalled the freshly painted parts, and Loctited everything too. Looks less bright, but I like the metallic graphite color.
 
#1,040 ·
I was going to use the Chrome paint on my axle but after watching a few videos on it and articles I passed...figured it was better to use something that would touch up easier.. it turns aluminum color if you clear coat it...there were also complaints about it coming off on your hands long after it had dried....too bad I thought it would look way cool
 
#1,041 ·
Boy Vall you have so much energy. I’m still pondering my door panels and you’re pulling off stuff and putting it back.
glad you are feeling better and with a vengeance. Lol
you did more than me with a hernia and rotten gallbladder. :)
 
#1,043 ·
Just got a case of sticker shock while talking to the upholstery shop person. I had purchased extra diamond pattern material so I could have them do the center inserts on seat bases and backs. I asked when they might be able to sew them in the seats, and was told maybe 3 weeks. Then she asked me to hold.
When she came back she said she talked to the upholsterer and he said $450-$500 to sew two inserts that are probably 16" wide x 24" long, with my material. Now I know the work is stripping the seats, and the reinstalling the covers, but seems a little crazy compared to the $370 I paid to have both of my Mustang buckets completely covered for the Falcon.
Told them I'd have to do some pondering before I committed to paying that price. I might have to go buy a good used commercial sewing machine, and then resell it once I finish the sewing. Can't be that tough to just cut out two inserts, trace them, and sew in new black naugahyde diamond pattern inserts? They're just a plain rectangle.
 
#1,045 ·
Well I think you're likely right Lash. I'd guess because of the corona crap they wont let me come by and talk with them, and have them look at it.
The same shop did my buddy's coupe about 18 months ago, and did everything from headliner to carpet, seats, door panels, etc. A turnkey total interior for $1800, all in white roll and pleat. So a pair of seat inserts for the quote is ridiculous.
 
#1,046 ·
My coupe is running well, and doing great on the road. But at idle it's pretty rich smelling, and nothing I do to adjust idle air mixture changes it. So looks like I'll need to pull the carb off and swap out power valves to get down from the stock 6.5's to a 3.5 set. My vacuum at idle is right at 10", but at 1500 rpm's or higher it's twice that. So I think the low idle vacuum is messing up the power valves.
 
#1,047 ·
I guess if you can not shut it down bye turning the mixture screws in then its getting fuel some place else..do you see any fuel drafting in the primaries with the screws closed...is it still set up factory spec as shipped...I can not remember if you already have been in to it...I know it was a refurbished
 
#1,048 · (Edited)
Like Lash said about mixture screws. That would have to be the primary jets are too rich. Or float is too high and gas is trickling in. Is this that Holley you bought? What model is it again? If you have 10 inches of vacuum then start with a 5 power valve.
 
#1,050 ·
My carburetor is a Quick Fuel 650 double pumper, with primary and secondary idle-air metering. I can indeed shut the carb totally down by turning in the screws, but not what I want to do. The stock power valves are 6.5, which is too large for the 10" of idle vacuum I have. I ordered 4.5 since I don't have anything small enough in my stash of good used power valves. As far as I know Holley or Quick Fuel don't sell even number power valves, so no 5 available.
The jet sizes are giving me conflicting information. Some say 67 primary and 70 secondary, while other info says 67 primary and 72 secondary. I will check jet sizes while the carb is apart, and likely drop it to 64 and 70 on those, if they're larger. But doubt jets would cause a rich idle either. With my engine build and size, I just think the 64-70 would be more appropriate.
Floats are not too high. My Quick Fuel carb has float windows, so no problem seeing the fuel level, and it's sitting at the bottom of the windows, so plenty low enough.
 
#1,051 ·
Power valves come in 1/2 sizes from 2.5 to 10.5. They do make a 5 but if you want to jump lower that’s fine but if you have any mid throttle hesitation from primary to power valve circuit go back up a 1/2 to 5.
 
#1,052 ·
If you’re not dumping fuel down the throttle leave the pw alone. Just work on the jetting.
a bad power valve will let the gas bleed down the Venturi so if you don’t see that leave it.
 
#1,053 ·
I guess I should have checked Quick Fuel's site as they offer half sizes from as low as 2.5 up to 8" in the .5 increments. Holley's site only has half sizes.

Jetting needs adjustment, but not as it affects idle mixture, since jetting has such a small affect on idle mixture.


I was tuning some more today and trying to see if I could get any better air/fuel mix. I decided to increase the idle speed a little to see if I could better adjust the mix, and then reduce the idle afterwards. Bringing the idle up from around 900 rpm to 1200 rpm and then tweaking the mixture was much easier to find the sweet spot. Once done I lowered it back down to 900 rpm, and it smells less gassy. Still a bit too rich, but I think the power valves will fix the rest.
I also noticed a noise on the passenger side that I wasn't sure if it was a tick from an exhaust leak, or a loose lifter? I tightened all the header bolts, but none were very loose. I pulled the valve covers, and reset all the lifter lash, but started the engine back up, and still had the click. Not as loud, but still there. I finally laid an old towel over the headers, and fired the engine up, and adjusted quickly before it made a mess. #4 intake valve was the culprit! Turned it less than a 1/4 turn and it went quiet.
They were due for a readjustment, as I have 500 miles on the engine now, and I usually check them at that point.
 
#1,054 ·
No better way to adjust valves live. Makes you confident but it sure is messy.
 
#1,055 ·
Yes, it's easier to adjust them running, but tough to do so without a mess. I've got a pair of stamped steel valve covers sitting in my scrap bin that are actually in good shape. Used them for painting SBC engines. I think it's time to make another splash shield from one of them for adjusting lifters while running today. I'll cut the top open on 3 sides and then bend it up to create a splash shield. I'm going to replace the valve cover gaskets on the '39, so I'll carefully cut the old gaskets loose and RTV one to the splash shield cover. Think I might also tack on some extra sheet metal above and around the ends too, so no chance of any oil getting flipped over the top by the rockers.
Once I get one made up I'll readjust the lash today, and this time I wont loan the splash cover out, so it wont get misplaced again!
 
#1,056 ·
do you have the kd rocker clips to prevent splash. They only work on stock stamped rockers. I get so mad when I have to adjust the roller rockers and they don’t fit on there. But they do stop at least 80% of the spray across the fender. The other 20% runs down the back of the head all over the pipes. Smoke city. :)
 
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