If I replace it, I might go with a typical 3 wire and just use two wires. The battery wire and the excite wire. My wiring harness has the excite wire and I have it coiled up under the left front fender where it could be easily used if I swapped to typical multi wire alternator.
But I'll check voltage today to ensure it's actually what my gauge tells me it is first.
Vall
Out early this morning, smoke and haze. But I wanted to take the doors off my shop and rebuild them. When I put them on I hastily covered them with some old corrugated transparent green fiberglass panels, which were not great shape. That's been a few years ago, and they look pretty tattered now.
So I removed the left door and took all the panels off. At the same time I wanted the left door to also be a bi-fold, as it hit's the gate when fully opened, and restricts partially into the opening I drive through. So I laid it down on the shop floor, and screwed in two more vertical studs. Then put 3 hinges across the studs, and finally cut the top and bottom stringers to allow the door to fold and open.
Rehung it and covered it with the new galvanized corrugated sheeting. Then stripped the right hand door, and covered it also with the same sheeting. Way more solid, more secure, nobody can see into the shop now, and I gained a few precious inches of clearance to get through the gate to the back shop.
After that got the smoke dust washed off the cars, and did some testing on my alternator. Started it up and volt meter reads 15 v., but my Fluke volt-ohm meter says it's just under 14.5 v., so I'll leave it alone, and not worry about it.
Vall
Went out this morning to visit my friend who painted the Austin for me a decade ago. Wanted his input on how to adjust the curvature of my fiberglass trunklid. It's low in the center, and high at the top and bottom lips. I figured he'd tell me how to cut the substructure off the inside, or dice it and re-fiberglass the inside.
But instead he tells me to just put a couple 2x4's from the trunk floor to the low spot on the curved lid, and ratchet straps from the trunk handle to the tail panel, and pull it down. Said to gradually pull them tighter, and release it every couple days to check to see if it moved enough.
Sounds way less complicated than I planned to make it!
Vall
The low spot looks like it is about mid point and under the sub structure in the center..caused by no one in the past ownership not using a panel filling compound to bond the sub structure to the top panel...like oem does..you maybe able to shim the top up from the inner structure..by using some thing that fits that need and then use a hardening body putty to keep it in place...once dry remove the shim and fill the gap at the same time for the high spots on each end...top and bottom use some straps to pull it down and do the same to attach the substructure to the panel...there is a panel bond that acts as a filler and a cement ...but I can not remember it...or maybe a low expanding foam under the inner structure to push the top panel up ???? either way the top and bottom panel will need to be joined for it to maintain shape
Last edited by Road Angels; 09-22-2020 at 08:56 PM.
Lash...Washington Chapter and Member...Mean Old Bastards Club
The problem is the entire trunk lid's curvature Lash, but you're right about the substructure not being bonded. The factory appearing inner bracing is only attached to the outer skin at the outside edge, and the entire substructure floats a good 1/8" or more everywhere in between. So the trunk lid is really just not curved enough to fit the curve of the adjacent body. I'm leery if shimming anywhere, and end up with high spots on the outer skin by only shimming at spots that align with the inner X structure.
The issue is getting the curve to match the body, and keeping it while I bond the inner structure to the skin. If I bond it and the curve is too little or not enough, then it's going to be stuck for good at that shape. I hope I can somehow get the skin to take the shape I want, and then bond it without losing the shape during the process.
The panel bonding adhesive is a great idea, as it wont pull or warp the skin as it sets up like fiberglass will. But I've only got one shot at it, so got to make sure it's set correctly before bonding, and keep it's shape until the adhesive cures.
Vall
Leaving in a week for my drive up north to Tonasket, wa. not far from the Canadian border to meet up with old friends. Everything seems to be sorted out on the '39, so my plan is to drive it there. Probably better on gas than my old Suburban with the OD trans, so maybe save some gas cost too.
It just turned over 1,000 miles this week, and so far it's doing well after the lifter replacement.
Vall
And here are some of Vall's friends up there https://www.google.com/search?q=tona...w=1264&bih=578
Lash...Washington Chapter and Member...Mean Old Bastards Club
lmao!!!!!!!
Steve Hidden Content MOB in sunny So Cal
"and the beat goes on....................."
hope you have a great time on your trip. Do you have a tire plug kit for emergency? I take one with me everywhere.Originally Posted by 1946Austin
have a safe trip.
Mario
"I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".
No, but what do you do about air once you plug a tire?
I'm considering buying a space saver spare from the local wrecking yard, as I built a spot into the trunk area to specifically hold a small spare for trips. Just need to ensure the spare wheel has a large center hole for the 8.8" Ford axle's large stub, but still 5x4.5" Ford pattern. The two wheels I presently have are full size, but neither will fit over the 8.8" axles.
Vall
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