'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 44
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Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #431
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Vall get as many pieces in as possible...all thread is real soft...used to get cheap hardware store long bolts...did not have to worry about the damn thing sliding off the ends...I am guessing the converter is in
    Lash

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  3. #432
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    Vall get as many pieces in as possible...all thread is real soft...used to get cheap hardware store long bolts...did not have to worry about the damn thing sliding off the ends...I am guessing the converter is in
    The converter is in, and of course I'll put nuts on the all thread to keep the trans from sliding off them. But I plan to also use my floor jack to support the trans and not just slide it back and hope the bolts didn't sag. I also will leave the trans crossmember attached as it can slide along the frame rails and stabilize the trans as it moves back. I have a piece of 3/4" plywood I bolt to the floor jack so it will not tip off the jack when I use it for engine or trans support. The trans gets strapped to the plywood, so it can't slip or slide. So really it will carry the weight and the all thread will just be to help guide it in and out. I will probably use 4 pieces in the two holes per side closest to the dowel pins.
    Done this before when the flex plate failed on my Austin, but it was so tight I couldn't use the all thread. It wouldn't allow the trans to go straight back, so I had to bring it back and down to allow the flex plate to be changed. Was a real bitch as I had to holesaw the trans tunnel just to get access to the bellhousing bolts! Then afterwards I sealed the holes with KO seals for future, if needed.
    Vall

  4. #433
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I finally got the call that my heads were ready! Took a lot longer than they promised, but they really did right by me. A pair of 882 heads with everything new including stainless valves and hardened seats. A few new springs that didn't meet the pressure test, and of course all new guides and seals.
    Weather is way too cold, and winds in the 30 mph range, so I'll put it back together tomorrow when it's supposed to warm up a bit.
    Vall

  5. #434
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Glad you got the burb motor parts back. Can't wait to hear that one fire up again.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  6. #435
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    Cold as hell with continued cold as hell...break out the long undies and good gloves and go at it...get her done my friend to the south...to damn cold in my shop to get much done
    Lash

  7. #436
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Once the Burb is running it's time to break out my propane space heater for the shop! I hesitate to use it too soon as it gets the place way too hot, and I have to go through the cycle of off and on all day. But it sure makes things cozy in a few minutes!
    Vall

  8. #437
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Really long day! Got outside on the Burb around 9:00 a.m. and just came in about 4:30, and of course no breaks like when I got paid to work!
    But I got it all back together, and she's purring like a kitten! Of course I had the usual 180 degree backwards distributor. I moved it to #1, with the balancer at TDC, but she backfired. Pulled #1 plug and got my wife to crank it over until I felt compression pop. Pulled the distributor and found it pointing backwards. After swapping it around it fired right up, but ran horrible and had one heck of an exhaust leak! My wife gave me the worried look, like "this is gonna be expensive". Then I remembered I never put #1 spark plug back in! LOL
    After putting the plug in I started it again, and after running a couple minutes I pulled the valve covers and readjusted the valves because they sounded a little tight. After that it was running better than it has in years!
    I think I got pretty lucky to just have the heads done, and replace some gaskets. I'll run it around for a few weeks, and then dump the oil and filter and replace both just to be sure nothing is in the system after this mess. Think I'll take a couple days off working on cars, and get rested up too. My bones ache from work and cold weather!
    Vall

  9. #438
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Hahhaaha you made me belly laugh on the spark plug out......Now i don't feel bad trying to run an 8 cylinder on 6 with 2 wires laying around...LOL
    Glad to hear you got it going buddy. Yeah rest up my friend. you did a lot. What oil are you using for the change? I just put Rotella T 15/40 diesel blend in my MG last night.
    I was reading that the diesel oils have better metal protection for the cam. Supposedly it should be good without additive.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  10. #439
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    I have done the spark plug thing my self...makes a lot of noise, I can picture the wife's face saying ooohhhhh crappp glad you got it done....
    Lash

  11. #440
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I bought 20-50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil Mario. It still has high zinc and works on these old flat tappet engines. And a 5 quart jug is really reasonably priced compared to other oils. I used to use Rotella, but heard they changed that formula too, and it doesn't have all the zinc now because it clogs up the exhaust system on newer diesels. The 5 qts. of Valvoline was about $4 a qt. so very cheap.
    Vall

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