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'39 Chevy Coupe project.

184K views 2K replies 24 participants last post by  1937Austin 
#1 ·
Nothing really to report, but figured I'd start this here vs. keep posting on the swap meet thread. So here's the same images from the swap meet.











The seller delivered it late yesterday afternoon during another downpour of rain. So even assessing the car just wasn't any fun after getting soaked unloading it. And unloading proved to be a chore too!
First the seller trailer had a 3/4" plywood deck that was rotted, so one rear tire sunk into the deck creating a hole! Then as we rolled it off the front tire turned with no steering box. As I went up to turn it the other tire was pointed a different direction! That's when I looked underneath and noticed the tierods weren't connected! Independent front wheels didn't make steering it off the trailer very easy!
Finally got it off, and then with a guy on each front wheel we tried to push it into position and keep the wheels parallel. Wasn't easy, but got it done. Then I simply covered it up, and went inside to dry out.
But some really good news too! I never looked at the title, or asked what state it was from. But turned out to be a current Oregon clear title, and a matching vin tag he had inside the same envelope! So it wont even need a vehicle inspection like an out of state car would need! One less hassle, and expense for me!
Hopefully we'll get a break in the rain someday, and I can get all the parts out of the car, and get a closer look at what I'm up against with the rust repairs.
 
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#980 ·
OH, and here's something weird I have going on with the fuel gauge! It reads fine from just below full tank to empty. But when I completely top the fuel cell the gauge goes to empty! Then as it begins to drop it starts coming off the empty mark, and somewhere around 3/4-7/8 tank the gauge moves to that level and begins to read correctly again.
It's like the sending unit goes past the full mark and causes it to read reversed until it drops enough to start working again? I my have to pull the sender and bend the arm so it wont travel far enough to do this weird stuff.
 
#981 ·
I got a good lesson in why I should always use copper gauge lines yesterday! Just cruising along on the way to meet the guys in my car club for dinner, when suddenly there's smoke everywhere! And since I had the cowl vent and windows open at 91 degrees, it filled the cab with smoke too! I saw an apartment lot and quickly turned in as I shut it down. Got out to see how bad the damage was, and was shocked to see oil running down the front fenders, down the sides of the car, and all over the leading edge of the rear fenders! I popped the hood off, and of course the engine bay was covered in oil also! Just a total oil bath everywhere!
After a quick inspection I saw the oil sending line was popped out of it's fitting, and the line appeared to have simply let go from the compression fitting. I called AAA and got a rollback to haul the '39 home. Then before doing anything else, I mixed up a bath of Purple Power degreaser, and began washing down the whole body several times. First time seemed to remove all the oil, but a couple more to be sure. Also washed down the engine and engine bay. My air cleaner was soaked, but fortunately it's a washable element, so I'll remove it and wash it separately.
Went to my local Autozone and bought a copper gauge line kit, and another gallon of oil. Dipstick showed almost nothing left in the engine, but I got it turned off quickly, so doubt it was hurt. I also got a pair of valve cover gaskets as I wanted to double check valve lash soon anyway, so might as well do so now.
Once the line is replaced, I've got to get underneath and check the bottom side of the car also. When it rolled off the tow truck I saw the bed of the truck had oil drips everywhere from oil running down the frame of the '39! So I'm pretty sure there's going to be a ton of underside cleanup also!
And I also realized I'd forgotten a major item of every build I do....a fire extinguisher! The oil on the headers had tried to catch fire, but fortunately not enough to get going. But it reminded me I never got a fire extinguisher yet, so I'll get one today, and mount it in the car! Going to be a long day today cleaning up everything. I'll never use the plastic gauge lines again!
 
#982 ·
Holy crap Vall that was too close for comfort. So glad it didn’t catch fire. Good thing you shut it down too. Just the other day I had one of the plastic oil lines in my hand and I said to myself I’ll never use that.
I hope you get it all cleaned up.
 
#983 ·
Got the new copper line kit installed, and everything cleaned as good as I could. Close to where it was prior to the line failing, but I'm sure there's plenty of oil in recesses I can't get at. Polished up all the aluminum after cleaning, and then tested the lines to insure no leaks. I ordered two more kits to put on my Austin, and the Suburban also.
I lost 3 qts. of oil in just seconds between seeing smoke and shutting it down. But the engine sounds fine, and oil pressure is great, so no harm done. I also picked up a fire extinguisher and mounted it in the trunk where it's easy to get to. Don't want to be without if I ever see flames!
 
#984 ·
Well I'm irritated today. I decided to drive the car around to burn off the oil that was left on the exhaust pipes, but also wanted to see how far down my tank would go before running out of gas. I took a 2 gal. gas can with me, and stayed near town where I could pour the gas in and then get to a station to fill it.
It went right down to just damp before I ran out, which surprised me. Poured the 2 gal. in the tank, and then at the gas station I filled it as full as it could go to see the full tank amount. It took 9.7 gal. of gas, so a 12 gal. cell.
This is when I got pissed off. I bought this as a 15.5 gal. fuel cell, and of course that's been much too long ago to do anything about it now. I really wanted as large as I could fit under the trunk, and now I'm 3 gal. short of what I was told it is. Pisses me off.
 
#985 ·
Yep,

screwed at the take out window again. That shit really gets old especially since it appears to be the norm now rather than the exception. Although it does do a heart good to know that I'm not the only one :p
 
#986 ·
screwed at the take out window again. That shit really gets old especially since it appears to be the norm now rather than the exception. Although it does do a heart good to know that I'm not the only one :p
And I even removed all the foam from inside it when I got it new! I figured I might have an extra quart or half gallon by removing foam! Must be that new fangled foam that gives more capacity when they put it in?
 
#989 ·
Got out early today to tackle some small things. I built a set of inside and outside plates to cover my wiper holes, and the driver's side gets a wiper motor below it. Passenger side will have a stainless button head allen to hold that plate in. I made up leads for the wiper motor, and marked the shaft length. Tore the motor apart and shortened the threaded shaft, and the stainless wiper arm shaft. Had a hole in the dash right behind the wiper motor, so opened it up and installed a toggle switch there to operate the motor. I will leave the wiper arm off, so it stays in good shape, and simply install it if I get caught in the rain.
About the time I finished the wiper motor, the mailman showed up with my steering wheel adapter, so I ran and got my new 15" 3 spoke wheel, and took the big 18" Pontiac wheel off. I like the looks of the Pontiac wheel, but it's just way too big, and feels like I'm driving a big truck. So the new wheel looks good, and feels great. It got a slightly oversized grip. so it fills my big hands well. I got a satin black spoke, and a chrome horn cap, which makes less bling, but looks good to me.
And the mailman was really good to me, as he brought my new locking trunk handle too! It was a quick install as it took the same holes as the '34 Chrysler handle I had, but I had to disassemble all the mechanism behind it to get to the nuts inside. Nice shiny chrome T handle, and now I wont worry about what's in the trunk when I'm not around the car.

 
#994 ·
In my continued effort to make the '39 a cruiser that I can take long drives with, I installed a 12 v. cigarette outlet. Maybe they call them something different today? But I had existing holes in the inset below my toggle switches, so I purchased one with a black rubber cover so I can run a phone charger, GPS, or whatever I need to use this style receptacle. Lots of spare circuits with my 21 circuit fuse block, so might as well use them up!
 
#995 ·
I like vacuum gauges! I tune most of my rides based on vacuum readings as they really tell what the engine and carbs are doing. I bought a vacuum gauge about 3 months ago, and then found a dash pod to put it in, but had to wait 2.5 months for it to be delivered!! From China of course, as I couldn't find any in my searches.
I installed it yesterday and fired the '39 up to check engine vacuum. To my surprise (and shock) my engine is producing almost 20 inches of vacuum! It drops to 10" revving the engine, but that's normal. Never dreamed the big Howards cam would put out so much vacuum! I avoided using a power brake booster, as I figured it wouldn't work. Now I may reconsider that thinking, and maybe consider adding one in the future.
 
#997 ·
As with

you Vall I run a vacuum gauge also. I ran a line between the 2 carbs Motor vehicle Hood Car Light Automotive design
with an adaptor for the gauge. After the motor warms up I move the timing until I get the best reading. Also like you I was really surprised at the 20-21 inches of vacuum I get with the Big Mutha Thumpr cam.
 
#1,000 ·
you Vall I run a vacuum gauge also. I ran a line between the 2 carbs View attachment 103185 with an adaptor for the gauge. After the motor warms up I move the timing until I get the best reading. Also like you I was really surprised at the 20-21 inches of vacuum I get with the Big Mutha Thumpr cam.
The Big Mutha Thumpr cam I had in my Falcon produced very low vacuum for my BBC. It idled around 10", and rarely got above about 13 in. even when I was decelerating. It's one reason I went with the Howards roller Rattler cam when I did this engine.
 
#998 ·
[QUtOTE=sbauman2;261583]you Vall I run a vacuum gauge also. I ran a line between the 2 carbs View attachment 103185 with an adaptor for the gauge. After the motor warms up I move the timing until I get the best reading. Also like you I was really surprised at the 20-21 inches of vacuum I get with the Big Mutha Thumpr cam.[/QUOTE]


Steve that sounds like a good idea. I’m wondering though. The last time I put a T in a vacuum line I got a pulse in my Holley that I wasn’t aware of. Carb was bleeding down at an idle like a high float level. I replaced the carb and still had a bleed down and found out it was a vacuum line T causing the issue. Since then I swore to never do that again.
have you ever experienced that situation?
 
#1,001 ·
I thought that too Vall. It may have been a different situation on mine. God I’m talking 1979. I remember looking down the carb and seeing the gas just dripping in. Swapping carbs and having the same issue. Something made me look at the vacuum lines at the back of the manifold. It may have been a manifold port running back to the carb vacuum Port or something like that. Whatever it was it solved the bleed down issue when I eliminated it.
 
#1,002 ·
Again

like you Vall I ran the balance line between the 2 carbs Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design
when I ran the cross ram carbs with the vacuum secondaries and never had a problem like Mario described. What a pain in the ass it was switching the secondary springs out until I got the right ones. Best thing I ever did was selling those and going with the two 650 DP carbs. Motor vehicle Car Light Hood Automotive design
 
#1,003 ·
like you Vall I ran the balance line between the 2 carbs View attachment 103187 when I ran the cross ram carbs with the vacuum secondaries and never had a problem like Mario described. What a pain in the ass it was switching the secondary springs out until I got the right ones. Best thing I ever did was selling those and going with the two 650 DP carbs. View attachment 103189
I've always used the quick change tops on the vacuum secondaries Steve. You can change those springs in seconds with the QC kits. I played with mine a lot, just because it was so quick and easy. And they come with a huge assortment of springs also, making it even easier.

 
#1,004 ·
Figured out my gas gauge issue the other day, and contacted the seller to exchange the gauge. I ordered a 0-90 ohm, and they sent me a 90-0 ohm, thus causing the reverse reading. Got the new gauge today, and got it installed.
I also ordered some thin black foam rubber mat in a 4'x 5' size to put down in the trunk over the floor. I plan to get more black carpet from Home Depot, but want this under the carpet to deaden the noise, but not be slick like the foil back sound deadener is. I wont be gluing the carpet in the trunk, so this will keep it from slipping around also. I'll glue the carpet on the box I built to cover wiring, and vent lines, but leave it removable on the trunk floor.
 
#1,005 ·
Well that gas tank sender certainly wasn’t helpful. Lol. Glad you got it fixed. Hey Vall what was the material board you used on the door panels? I know you posted it before but I’ll never find it before January. :). Does Home Depot sell it?
 
#1,007 ·
#1,009 ·


That tear drop shaped license plate light just wouldn't keep working. It had a good ground, since the trunk lid is glass and I ran a ground wire. And the hot lead read good too. But the socket seemed to be an issue, and from day to day it would quit.
It is a pain to disassemble, but i took it apart today to try to get a permanent fix. I was digging through my electrical lamps, and parts when I found some short LED strip lights. I thought maybe they'd work, if they weren't too long. So I first tested one inside the housing, and it just barely fit! So stripped back the leads and touched them on my battery and it lit up.
I was trying to decide how to mount it, as it had no tabs, or anything, when I saw something white in the bag. Pulled it out and it was double faced tape! Pulled the paper off and stuck it to the inside bottom of the housing, and then guided the wires through the bottom. Mounted it back on the trunk, and spliced the wires back together. Since the LED has both 12v. leads, it doesn't need to ground the housing, and it works great.
One more nit picky thing to cross off the list!
 
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#1,011 ·
I second the one cool hot rod, you did a great job Vall. A friend of mine bought 4x8 sheets from I think Lowes, it looks like card board but it's a light wt plastic. It works great and I think I'll use it on mine. Miami Rubber in Cinn Ohio has some really nice rubber mat, you can heat it and it will form around the tunnel plus they have some of the best glue in a spray can I've ever seen, their brand. Think I'll use it instead of carpet.
 
#1,013 ·
I used 3M adhesive for most of my interior. But right at the end I ran out and grabbed a can of Permatex Headliner and Upholstery adhesive. The Permatex is the finest product in a spray can I've ever used! Head and shoulders above the 3M products, and wished I found it sooner! It really sticks a bunch better! Used it for carpet, door panels, and everywhere I sprayed it, it worked.
It was also several bucks per can cheaper, and in stock at my local Autozone too.

https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...VqxatBh3y6AdMEAQYASABEgJzVfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
#1,014 ·
My wife decided she wanted to help out on the build, so she sewed up covers for the ratty sun visors. She still needs to do the final sewing to close off the end, but they fit well, and look good. The picture makes them look lighter from the flash, but they're very black in reality.

 
#1,015 ·
Wife finished up my sun visors, and I installed them this morning. They look great, and work nicely!
Then I decided to tackle a job I've been putting off for awhile. The '39 rides pretty stiff, and I planned to remove some leafs up front. Always a guessing game as to how many, and how it will affect the stance. So I decided to go big, and took 3 of the 5 leafs out, but the shortest 3 leafs. That is a total of 3/4" off the stance, and with less spring rate I figured I'd lose another 3/4"-1" on top of that.
So I set about to remove the 3 leafs, and build a spacer block to adjust for the loss. I had plenty of extra length on the U bolts, so I used heavy wall 2"x 2" box tubing, and cut it 5" long. I drilled a hole at center, and opened one side up to 3/8" and the other side up to 9/16" I bolted a stainless steel 3/8" allen bolt in the 3/8" hole to be the alignment pin. The other fits over the 3/8" pin on my springs. Before installing the spacers I cut 2"x 2" plates to weld over the ends of the box tubing to make it stronger, and make it look like a solid block.
Bolted it all together, and lowered the car down on the ground. My before and after measurements were 1/2' difference, and that's 1/2" higher. So it appears my seat of the pants guess on the spacer was as close as I could guesstimate. Love when I get lucky!
Took it for a ride, and even with only two long leafs, the ride is still firm, but not nearly as hard as it was before. Glad to get this mod done, and it actually was a lot easier, and quicker than I thought it would be!

 
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