'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 65
GasserHotRods.com is the premier All All Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Page 65 of 69 FirstFirst ... 15556364656667 ... LastLast
Results 641 to 650 of 681

Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #641
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    11,825
    Gorgeous day here today at mid 50's. And my 1/2" heims finally arrived too, so I got busy fabricating the slide and tilt system for the frontend. I'm using 1" OD tube inside 1.25" OD tube for the slides. Just a piece of heavy angle iron welded to the end and the heim joint and weld bung on the end of my main tubes. I drilled and tapped for a 1/4-20 stop screw to limit it sliding open, but will allow me to pull it easily also.
    The outer tube will get welded to the frame with a mounting plate, and it will sit on top of the frame lip, so wont need much of a weld to hold it.



    Just tacked for now as I'm still waiting on my dual caulk gun to arrive so I can apply panel adhesive. I also bent up the cross brace for the rear that will tie the fenders together when they're open. I'll have two hood pins holding the back of the fenders, and two pins holding the back of the hood. Front of the hood will be held to the fenders with Dzus fasteners for easy removal if I want to run without the hood occasionally.
    Vall

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GasserHotRods.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #642
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    11,825
    I think I've got the hood as close as it can get and still maintain enough strength. Any more off the backside will end up weakening it, so I'm stopping here. I squared it up to the cowl and drilled two pilot holes through the hood and cowl. Then opened both up to 1/2" and installed the hood pins. No trim on them as I may want to slightly adjust the holes before installing trim.



    Then I did some measuring on the fenders and front wheels to see how they line up. It appears the front fenders need to shift to the driver's side slightly before I start attaching the tilt framework. I may also have to adjust the hood opening where it lines up with the grille as the passenger side appears to not quite be the correct arc to the curved edge.
    I mounted up the headlight housings also. They need to come off to open up the center holes for wiring pass through, but I can drill the pilot hole through both fender and housing with my angle head drill first.



    I also need to remove fiberglass off the fender drops where the meet the body to clear the step in the side of the cowl, and adjust the bad edge on the fiberglass that doesn't match the body. This is the area I need to remove, but about half as much as the felt pen mark.



    Maybe get some more time tomorrow to refine this fiberglass crap.
    Vall

  4. #643
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    So.Cal.
    Posts
    1,595

    Wow Vall

    the problems you've had to address with the fiberglass components have been daunting to say the least. When I got Willys with all the glass pieces (hood, front clip, door inner and outer skins) at least all I had to deal with was the trimming everything to fit. I was really surprised to see that the inner door panels were different from each other but fortunately that didn't present any real problems. Every time I read your newest posts I need to lay down and take a nap!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Steve Hidden Content in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  5. #644
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    2,801
    Driver side looks great with the hood cut and the fit to the grille looks great...hope you can get the other side to line up that good...are you going to do the front with the grille inserts in the fenders...or go sans them...I see on the web it is about 50/50 on those that run them and those that do not....if you need holes let me know ...Have Hole Saws Will Travel... I bring enlightenment to every Gasser
    Lash

  6. #645
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    11,825
    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    Driver side looks great with the hood cut and the fit to the grille looks great...hope you can get the other side to line up that good...are you going to do the front with the grille inserts in the fenders...or go sans them...I see on the web it is about 50/50 on those that run them and those that do not....if you need holes let me know ...Have Hole Saws Will Travel... I bring enlightenment to every Gasser
    The frontend has the grille inserts cast into the fenders, so only question is whether I'll open up the faux grilles to allow air through, or leave them as is.

    I still need to take a lot of measurements now to determine if I've got both fenders propped up exactly the same. Just tossed jack stands under 4 points and guessed at them looking similar. I'll prop them up exactly the same before going forward with framework. I'm guessing they might have some effect on the alignment if they're not exactly the same height now that they're separated from the hood.
    Vall

  7. #646
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    11,825
    Quote Originally Posted by sbauman2 View Post
    the problems you've had to address with the fiberglass components have been daunting to say the least. When I got Willys with all the glass pieces (hood, front clip, door inner and outer skins) at least all I had to deal with was the trimming everything to fit. I was really surprised to see that the inner door panels were different from each other but fortunately that didn't present any real problems. Every time I read your newest posts I need to lay down and take a nap!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Thanks Steve! I on the other hand feel like nothing much is getting done. I spend more time gazing and scratching my head than I do working. I know I'm getting closer, but still can't see that light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel!
    Vall

  8. #647
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    2,801
    .( I'm guessing they might have some effect on the alignment if they're not exactly the same height now that they're separated from the hood)...thats the problem with floppy glass ...up, down ...forwards, backwards...side to side...it all effects the gaps and position in relation to the body...it is not going to be perfect no matter what you do...so don't beat your self up trying to make it perfect...if it looks good by eye ball go with it...you are making great progress...you have just hit that stubborn part in every build...maybe setting up the main part of the tilt frame square to the frame and body then work from there may be the way to go...just trying to position and hold in place is a real pain with glass ...I am sure the light bulb over your head will light up...and it will some together...would love to see what the stance is going to be...
    Lash

  9. #648
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    11,825
    I spent some time today measuring and adjusting everything to ensure the front fenders were the same height, and perfect relationship to the body, and the frame. I ended up shifting it slightly to the driver's side, and slight;y back also to get the whole thing lined up. Then looked at the hood to grille again, and after some frustration with it still not in alignment I made a template off the top of the grille from cardboard to see which side was off. This was likely a big part of the passenger side wanting to hang out further than the driver's side when I tried to pull the grille into alignment before.
    I laid the cardboard on the top of one grille side and marked it. Then cut it out with scissors and laid it over the passenger side half of the hood lip. It matched perfectly, so I laid it over the driver's side hood lip and to my horror it was off a half inch between the peak of the hood and the opening on the side! No wonder the grille top wanted to extend out farther than the hood! I made another cardboard template of the pass. side hood contour and used it to check the driver's side, and found the curve was much less and pretty flat! It just wont ever line up as it is.
    So I marked out the offending area and grabbed the cutoff wheel and went after it. I made cuts clear through an inch apart up to the edge of the affected area. Then I bent up a piece of my 3/4" steel tube to match the contour I needed and clamped it on the backside to force the "fingers out". After forcing them out I turned on the heat and warmed up the shop. Mixed up some fiberglass resin and laid down a few layers over the top side of the cuts to strengthen, and hold them.



    Left the tubing on the backside and scuffed up the fiberglass cloth, and gave it a coat of Duraglass filler. Once that set up I removed the tubing and gave it another coat that got it out further towards the ends.



    When the final coat dried I held up the template and it looks like I'm slightly high now on the curved shape. I'll knock it down with a flapper disc, and then check it against the grille to see if it aligns better now.



    Duraglass is really tough to work with for more than just rough coats. So I'll knock it down slightly low and give the area a skim coat of filler I can actually sand and shape. Hopefully this will get things a little closer to fitting. I sure hope so, as I'm tired of fiberglass, and everything to do with it!
    Vall

  10. #649
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    11,825
    Well part of this nightmare got solved just a few minutes ago!! I was perusing Craigslist, and nothing of interest. But I decided to check Seattle 3.5 hrs. away, and there's a pair of original front fenders, complete with the headlight housings for sale!
    I contacted the guy to ask price and location, and he tells me $200 and he lives just 15 miles from me! I rushed over to see them and they're rust free, and no dings! One fender has a 1.5" long crack that will need to be welded, but that's it!
    I'm super excited to have real steel, and I'll see if I use the hood or not. If it fits the steel fenders better, then I may retain the fiberglass hood. It feels like a huge weight lifted off my build with great fenders to restart with.
    Vall

  11. #650
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    2,801
    That is awesome Vall...I can now stop looking for front end parts for you..................
    Lash

  12. Remove Advertisements
    GasserHotRods.com
    Advertisements
     

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •