'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 98
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Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #971
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vht View Post
    Great to hear everything came out ok, I'm not going to say take it easy, I know how I am when it comes to that. I got one of those wiper motor kits, it didn't make it on the model A sedan so it's going on the 33 plymouth. I also have a small heater, thinking about turning it upside down and running 2 hoses up to the top for defrosters. I seen the trans dip stick assy on the site you listed on ebay, a word of advice to anyone going to use them, flexable type, buy Lokar. I hated spending $128 but I had one of Ebays and it took forever to fill and it leaked bad. Lokars you can use a regular trans funnel. I did find a throttle cable on there and couldn't believe he sold the good oil drain plug washers instead of those crap nylon type.
    I've use Spectre flexible trans dipstick tubes, and throttle cables, on numerous builds. Their quality is very good, and a fraction of Lokar prices. I believe the Spectre tube on my Austin was around $50. And their throttle cable kits are around $25.

    I put the original defroster tubes back under my dash in case I decided I needed to run a heater/defroster someday. No plans yet, but I have looked at the simple hotrod heaters sold at various sites, and might do one if I find myself driving in cooler temps.
    Vall

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  3. #972
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1946Austin View Post
    I've use Spectre flexible trans dipstick tubes, and throttle cables, on numerous builds. Their quality is very good, and a fraction of Lokar prices. I believe the Spectre tube on my Austin was around $50. And their throttle cable kits are around $25.

    I put the original defroster tubes back under my dash in case I decided I needed to run a heater/defroster someday. No plans yet, but I have looked at the simple hotrod heaters sold at various sites, and might do one if I find myself driving in cooler temps.
    just to throw my trans dipstick experience out there........Mine is about 8 years old and when I pulled out the dipstick last week the plastic stick was curved like the shape of the tube and wouldn't go back in. Im not sure if its Spectre or Lokar. at this point. I looked up lokar and found its a wire stick. So If spectre is a plastic stick I wouldn't buy another.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  4. #973
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    I had

    concerns regarding the nylon bushings also Vall. What my buddy did was a couple spot welds at a time 180 degrees apart, let them cool and then a couple more until they were all around the shaft. Since the shaft is 1/2" in diameter it only took about 20 minutes and no damage to the bushings.
    Steve Hidden Content in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  5. #974
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1946Austin View Post
    I've use Spectre flexible trans dipstick tubes, and throttle cables, on numerous builds. Their quality is very good, and a fraction of Lokar prices. I believe the Spectre tube on my Austin was around $50. And their throttle cable kits are around $25.

    I put the original defroster tubes back under my dash in case I decided I needed to run a heater/defroster someday. No plans yet, but I have looked at the simple hotrod heaters sold at various sites, and might do one if I find myself driving in cooler temps.
    I have the Both the same heaters in my coupe and my MG. It has cutouts on the side for defroster ducts. The last one I got was at Jegs. Reasonable.

    https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/70603/10002/-1
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  6. #975
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmhotrod View Post
    just to throw my trans dipstick experience out there........Mine is about 8 years old and when I pulled out the dipstick last week the plastic stick was curved like the shape of the tube and wouldn't go back in. Im not sure if its Spectre or Lokar. at this point. I looked up lokar and found its a wire stick. So If spectre is a plastic stick I wouldn't buy another.
    My Spectre have always had a flat steel dipstick Mario. No idea who makes the plastic ones?
    This is like mine. I tossed the little adapter hose as I have small funnels I use to add fluid. Mine is also a longer version as this 19" wouldn't be long enough to mount it on my firewall.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECTRE-547...kAAOSwkCdcge9C
    Vall

  7. #976
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    After our father's day breakfast we headed home before noon, and I tackled a couple small check list items. First the gas pedal, as it was going to be the most work. Bolt pattern matched the old pedal, but the arm length didn't. So had to move the pedal up about 3/8". Luckily a pair of fender washers on either side of the firewall covered the old holes, and left it looking like it was always there.
    Then I laid out for another big hole to run the speedometer cable end through. I was able to hide the exit low on the cowl where the firewall is hidden behind a support, and wouldn't show the hole. Got it done, and the cable connected on both ends. Then cut a piece of heater hose and wrapped the cable until the hose was tight in the hole. Sealed with some black RTV, and laid the carpet back down with some more adhesive.
    I'll get a lighter receptacle next and wire it under the dash. Then I can plug in my GPS to double check the speedometer accuracy, and also have the lighter receptacle later to charge a cell phone or whatever.
    Vall

  8. #977
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    Had to run an errand today, so a 45 mile round trip on the freeway in the '39 was in order. About halfway there I'm enjoying the ride when suddenly drops of wet liquid begin to splatter the windshield! It's a clear blue sky, so I panicked and pulled over. Got out and checked everything, but no sign of a leak. There was a garbage truck ahead of me, and I think these drips of liquid were dripping out his tail end!
    Scared the crap out of me, but the car was running 170 degrees, and no issues or drips. I finished my run, and on the way home stopped at Old Car Parts to show where all the parts they sold me went. Joe was tickled to see the '39 as he's a big '39 Chevy fan.
    After I got home I touched up some gloss black under the car's frame that had primer over spray, and then painted and installed my armrests. Wanted to keep going, but it started getting too hot so I wussed out and went indoors.
    Vall

  9. #978
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    I know that feeling of drops n the windshield. I had an overflow tank hose leak one time. Made me real nervous I wasn’t getting home on the return trip. It’s hot here too Vall. The humidity is a killer. I’ve been working in the basement and it hot down there too. After that all day who wants to go in a sweltering garage.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  10. #979
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I was working in the driveway Mario, since I pulled in there when I got home. So it was actually much cooler when I stepped in the garage for tools. But in the direct sun it was blistering. Just a week ago it was cool and rainy, go figure?

    It always takes weeks of driving a build for me to get comfortable, and not worry about every little noise.
    I plan to pull the front spring packs apart soon, and remove a leaf or two to soften the ride. I'll likely reinstall short pieces of equal width 1/4" steel for each leaf removed so my U bolts will remain the same length. I'll also check kingpin angle afterwards to insure I don't need to add a shim if it settles and changes from previous 6 degree angle.
    Vall

  11. #980
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    OH, and here's something weird I have going on with the fuel gauge! It reads fine from just below full tank to empty. But when I completely top the fuel cell the gauge goes to empty! Then as it begins to drop it starts coming off the empty mark, and somewhere around 3/4-7/8 tank the gauge moves to that level and begins to read correctly again.
    It's like the sending unit goes past the full mark and causes it to read reversed until it drops enough to start working again? I my have to pull the sender and bend the arm so it wont travel far enough to do this weird stuff.
    Vall

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