'39 Chevy Coupe project. - Page 97
GasserHotRods.com is the premier All All Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Page 97 of 102 FirstFirst ... 47879596979899 ... LastLast
Results 961 to 970 of 1019

Thread: '39 Chevy Coupe project.

  1. #961
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,321
    Quote Originally Posted by sbauman2 View Post
    news Vall, congratulations and take it easy. Maybe the rain is a good thing; it'll force you take things slow.
    No rain inside my shop Steve! But I'll take it easy anyway.
    Vall

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GasserHotRods.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #962
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    6,628
    Awesome Vall! Glad it went well. I kinda thought it would being you’re on a roll lately. Good for you.
    just go easy will ya. Lol
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  4. #963
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,321
    Quote Originally Posted by mmhotrod View Post
    Awesome Vall! Glad it went well. I kinda thought it would being you’re on a roll lately. Good for you.
    just go easy will ya. Lol
    Yes Mario, I'll take it easy for awhile, but stay busy too!
    Vall

  5. #964
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,321
    I decided for now (and maybe forever) that I only need a driver's side windshield wiper. Rather than fool with trying to get the strange little offset chain driven wiper transmissions of my '39 working, I instead ordered a direct drive after market electric wiper motor kit.
    The kit arrived today, and comes complete with stainless steel polished arm, wiper blade, motor, and diagram. It gets fed with constant 12v. and then just a simple toggle switch jumps the 12v. through the switch to a 3rd terminal. So when you turn the switch off it parks itself. It also has an on/off switch on the motor for whatever reason?
    I'll need to make a pair of blank off plates for the cowl, and cut some flat pieces of inner tube to make gaskets under the plates. I'll drill the driver's side to mount the motor, and leave the passenger side with a stainless button head allen in the hole to hold the plate, and maybe use if i ever decide to do a 2nd wiper.
    Looks like a nice little kit for under $50, and easier than adapting some wrecking yard parts.
    Vall

  6. #965
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,321
    Four days is about all I can handle of sitting watching the boob tube, so had to get out of the house. Could have had my door handle clips shipped to me, but good excuse to go somewhere, so I drove over to Chevs of the 40's and picked them up. Got a nifty black T shirt also, but not really for free. They charged me Wa. tax on my vent window weatherstrip, and couldn't refund me, so gave me a T shirt instead. Woopie!

    I pulled my interior door handles off and put the six new escutcheons on all of them. They're slightly smaller, and will hold the handles on much better. Reset my choke and fast idle so it's lower, and turns off sooner. It cam just cranked as far closed as some idiot could crank it.
    I still need to install the speedo cable, but it can wait until I'm healed up more.
    Another club get together tomorrow, and another excuse to drive it!
    Vall

  7. #966
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,321
    I finally got the '39 out on the freeway today! It drove great, and when I hit about 50 mph it shifted into overdrive and the rpm's dropped down around 1800 rpm. I accelerated up to around 65 mph, and it downshifted back to 3rd, and then up to 4th when I backed off at 65 mph. So it downshifts, and upshifts great, and cruises around 2200 rpm at 65 mph.
    I love the overdrive automatic, and can't wait to take a longer drive to see how she does on fuel consumption! Hoping it will be something around 18 mpg or better, but no idea for sure what to expect?

    When I got home I did a quick inspection of the underside, and found a small drip at the lower radiator hose. Looks like the clamp needs to be moved slightly to get it straitened up, and then snugged down. It ran around 175-180 degrees with temps around 90 degrees today.
    Vall

  8. #967
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,321
    I've been fighting a swap meet spoon pedal that wont hold tight on the shaft, and gives me half throttle because of slippage. I finally threw in the towel and decided to order a new one. Of course I figured it will likely be a different hole spacing, and likely another polished aluminum. But I've bought numerous parts from a guy on Ebay who goes by, "hotrodbkr" and I thought maybe he'd have something good for a reasonable price. So I found he indeed did, and not only cheap, but all steel, and chrome plated!
    I paid the $22 and put my order in yesterday. It showed up in today's mail!!! How is that even possible?? He's always fast, but this is crazy fast. And upon opening the package I saw two things I liked. First it is welded together, and second the shaft is welded to the throttle arm, so one less place to slip!
    Then I saw the pedal side is deeply splined, and since it's steel a lot less likely to slip. Still don't know if the mounting holes are different, but if they are I guess I'll open up one hole and use a washer to make it work. Nice to finally find what appears to be a really well built piece, and not end up paying crazy price for it!

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Spoo...72.m2749.l2649
    Vall

  9. #968
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Brooksville Ky
    Posts
    626
    Great to hear everything came out ok, I'm not going to say take it easy, I know how I am when it comes to that. I got one of those wiper motor kits, it didn't make it on the model A sedan so it's going on the 33 plymouth. I also have a small heater, thinking about turning it upside down and running 2 hoses up to the top for defrosters. I seen the trans dip stick assy on the site you listed on ebay, a word of advice to anyone going to use them, flexable type, buy Lokar. I hated spending $128 but I had one of Ebays and it took forever to fill and it leaked bad. Lokars you can use a regular trans funnel. I did find a throttle cable on there and couldn't believe he sold the good oil drain plug washers instead of those crap nylon type.

  10. #969
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    So.Cal.
    Posts
    1,731

    Vall

    I ran into the same exact problem with the spoon type throttle assembly I bought for the Willys. About 4 months after I installed it I started experiencing problems too. The splines just weren't cut deep enough. Instead of putting more money out for a new assembly though I marked where I wanted both levers, the cable lever and the spoon lever, took the assembly over to my buddy with the TIG welder and had him weld both levers to the shaft. I took a piece of 1/4" all thread, installed a nutsert in my firewall, bent the threaded rod to 90 degrees with 1 1/2" on the short end, clamped my carb at wot and adjusted the rod to where it hits the cable lever at wot, ran a jam nut down the rod to the nutsert and have a throttle stop.
    Steve Hidden Content in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  11. #970
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    12,321
    Quote Originally Posted by sbauman2 View Post
    I ran into the same exact problem with the spoon type throttle assembly I bought for the Willys. About 4 months after I installed it I started experiencing problems too. The splines just weren't cut deep enough. Instead of putting more money out for a new assembly though I marked where I wanted both levers, the cable lever and the spoon lever, took the assembly over to my buddy with the TIG welder and had him weld both levers to the shaft. I took a piece of 1/4" all thread, installed a nutsert in my firewall, bent the threaded rod to 90 degrees with 1 1/2" on the short end, clamped my carb at wot and adjusted the rod to where it hits the cable lever at wot, ran a jam nut down the rod to the nutsert and have a throttle stop.
    I planned to weld mine also Steve, but it's aluminum with nylon washers in the middle to keep it moving freely. I'm sure the nylon would melt and end up not working after welding, so gave up on that idea. I considered just pinning it also, but the shaft is small enough I wondered how small the pins might need to be to not weaken the shaft.
    In the end I figured $22 wasn't worth it.
    Vall

  12. Remove Advertisements
    GasserHotRods.com
    Advertisements
     

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •