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'39 Chevy Coupe project.

183K views 2K replies 24 participants last post by  1937Austin 
#1 ·
Nothing really to report, but figured I'd start this here vs. keep posting on the swap meet thread. So here's the same images from the swap meet.











The seller delivered it late yesterday afternoon during another downpour of rain. So even assessing the car just wasn't any fun after getting soaked unloading it. And unloading proved to be a chore too!
First the seller trailer had a 3/4" plywood deck that was rotted, so one rear tire sunk into the deck creating a hole! Then as we rolled it off the front tire turned with no steering box. As I went up to turn it the other tire was pointed a different direction! That's when I looked underneath and noticed the tierods weren't connected! Independent front wheels didn't make steering it off the trailer very easy!
Finally got it off, and then with a guy on each front wheel we tried to push it into position and keep the wheels parallel. Wasn't easy, but got it done. Then I simply covered it up, and went inside to dry out.
But some really good news too! I never looked at the title, or asked what state it was from. But turned out to be a current Oregon clear title, and a matching vin tag he had inside the same envelope! So it wont even need a vehicle inspection like an out of state car would need! One less hassle, and expense for me!
Hopefully we'll get a break in the rain someday, and I can get all the parts out of the car, and get a closer look at what I'm up against with the rust repairs.
 
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#4 ·
That's what I think too Lash! A lower front stance, but not too high in the back either.

Looking around at front suspension options has revealed that people tend to go for the 1st gen Camaros, or pre '74 Novas. Both rear steer subframes. The other choice is MII crossmembers and expensive systems, which run about $1200-$1500!!! I think I'll rule out the MII, unless I stumbled into something cheap.
The early subframes are getting harder to find, and prices going higher. So I might look at later front side steering Camaro-Nova subframes. Not sure why guys avoid them, as the front side steer have much better geometry, and factory disc brakes. Not a big fan of either subframe from a standpoint of their bulky size. But it does make engine locating a breeze, and makes a nice factory setup for parts if needed.
And I haven't ruled out a drop tube axle yet either. It could get the stance I want if I use fairly flat springs, and a 4"-6" drop tube.
 
#7 ·
Here's a '39 that belongs to a guy I know in my area. It's been pretty much as is for the last 40 years or so, although it was stored away and unseen for a number of years. I always thought it was sitting on a stock Mustang II crossmember and suspension but the pic looks like it has spring eyes showing. I just looked at it again last Friday but can't remember for sure. I always liked his licence plate and MANIAC is his HAMB screen name, too.
 
#11 ·
This is my old '40 Chevy coupe I sold to my friend back in around 1971 or '72? Of course it didn't look like this when I owned it. It was a gasser back then with a 413 Mopar wedge engine, and 727 trans. But Steve had it restored, and made into a street rod.
I like the stance, but not his choice of wheels and tires.

 
#13 ·
Well it can officially start now. The Falcon sold today to the 2nd person who looked at it. Nice young couple who sold their '68 Mustang recently, and wanted an old school gasser. They drove several hours to come look at it, and both enjoyed the drive I took them on in it.
So now I can begin more serious searching for various parts.
 
#16 ·
Ordered some 18 gauge sheet metal today for various repairs I'll need. 4'x8' sheet and had some cuts done that I know I always use for repairs. Had six 3"x 48" cuts, and two 5"x 48" cuts. $85 total. Another local supplier wanted $85 for the same sheet, but $10 a cut for the extra cuts! Ridiculous!

Nobody sells lower door skin patch panels, so I'll use the 3" to make those. The 5" will possibly be for any splicing I need to do between rockers and floor pan pieces. The floors come as 6 or 8 pcs. and no trans tunnels. I don't think I need any tunnel anyway, but will fabricate one if needed.
Can't locate a patch panel for the area between rear fender and rear door edge either. So some of the cuts will end up there too. I'm sure I'll be tired of cutting, grinding, and welding in no time!
 
#17 · (Edited)
Vall the frame width from outer to outer rail is 33 inchs at the fire wall just before the body mount take 7 inchs from that for the inner width the frame rail at that point is 3-1/2 by 6 inchs Dia....I should let you know that the 98 up ranger frames are high strength hydro formed and are stressed.. so if you cut it from the mid section it will spring out of shape on you...not a good thing...my buddy that was just here had a 39 like yours that he raced here in the northwest..had a L88 427 with a muncie M22 and 4.88 ford 9 inch...said that the old top hat frame never gave him any problems and is more than good enough for big horse power and thought it would be a shame to cut it up for a graft...since disc drakes are very do able on the stock axle and a truck roll bar would be enough...he said that more than once he left the 3rd member on the ground at the starting line..and lost a few 1st gears in the muncie...the pic he showed me several months ago the stance was almost stock
 

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#18 ·
Your buddy's '39 was the standard business coupe if it had a dropped I beam axle. Mine is the Deluxe that had a backseat, and sliding 1/4 windows, so they didn't come with an I beam axle. They came with the knee action control arm suspension that was crap, even when new. So keeping an axle isn't in the mix, since it doesn't have one now.
I could put a later straight axle under it, but I'm not going the gasser route on this one, so not sure I can get the stance I want with a straight axle and parallel leaf springs. But I have considered it as a possibility. I'm still weighing options and deciding before I even begin to think about cutting and chopping.
 
#19 · (Edited)
frame

I did not know there was a difference...so I looked it up....man that is some ugly ass front suspension and should be ripped off ASAP...even if it worked good what were they thinking... my old Plymouth had a knee action type front suspension on and it worked great but a different design by 1951 ..considering the era when it was produced...well it did till I over sprung it.....lol....some others that are being cut up for grafts are the Vic's... Dakotas...Couriers...alot out there to consider...but hey that is the fun part...before the knuckles get bruised and the hands dirty...and making The dollars stretch...here is some good pics of a T/A frame front section...https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/d/blaine-1979-pontiac-trans-am-camaro-hot/6866638025.html
 
#20 ·
Pretty familiar with the 2nd gen Camaro and Firebird since I had a Camaro for over 40 years. They just look too big and heavy for me. Not sure what I'll end up with, but I know MII kits are more than I want to spend.
I may still end up putting a drop I beam axle under it, but with flat springs to keep the height down. And go with a solid rear axle in the 9" that's in it, or my 8.8" spare. Lots of time, and lots of ideas!
 
#21 ·
A few years ago, the store I delivered for had a '03 Ranger and a '03 S-10 and I can tell you the S-10 drove much better. They're too narrow for some cars but a '78 to '88 GM G body is about the same only wider track. Just something else to think about.
 
#23 ·
Vall

You are "da man" and I applaud you for what you're doing. I believe that we are only a few months apart in age but there is no way I could talk myself into taking on another build of the scope you are. Buying a roller (like I did with the Willys) is one thing but a bare bones body and chassis, oh man........
 
#24 ·
You are "da man" and I applaud you for what you're doing. I believe that we are only a few months apart in age but there is no way I could talk myself into taking on another build of the scope you are. Buying a roller (like I did with the Willys) is one thing but a bare bones body and chassis, oh man........
Well taking it on, and completing it are two different things Steve! I hope my excitement is not a passing thing as I get deeper into this build, and maybe find even larger issues! But it looks like an extremely nice, solid frame, so hope it doesn't need much beyond the bodywork.
It would be easier to build it as a gasser. I think they're one of the easiest builds a guy can do myself. But right now I'd prefer a cruiser. Guess I could end up going gasser, and still have an AOD trans, and not go quite so high. And a strong SBC without being a beast of an engine.
 
#27 · (Edited)
#28 ·
I've seen that bare axle, and that's a pretty spendy way to start a gasser! By the time you get a kingpin kit, spindles, steering arms, tie rod, 5 bolt hubs, backing plates, and drums. Or convert to disc brakes and still need most of that. You might as well buy a brand new Speedway axle.
I did have an offer today of a complete 1959 Chevy I beam axle, which is my favorite of all the donor axles. Guy wants $100 complete, but not sure if I can get the lower stance with parallel leafs? I might still consider it at the price as I sure couldn't lose if I didn't use it. Could clean it up and stick it on CL and maybe even make a few bucks.

I ordered all the front and rear floor sheet metal today. A ten piece set for all of the floor, so should be easier to work with, but more welds. It was cheaper than buying it locally from Chevs of the 40's. I'll get the rockers locally, as their price was better on those.
I also went over to the steel yard and picked up my 48"x 96" sheet of 18ga. steel, plus the cuts they did for me. For now just piling all these pieces in the garage until I'm ready to begin.
 
#29 ·
Now this doesn't mean I've changed direction! But looking around CL yesterday and found a guy parting out a 1959 Chevy truck. So out of curiosity I called and asked if the straight axle was available. He told me it was, but was pretty tired looking. But he had another pretty decent one he'd pulled from his Cameo pickup, and would sell it for $100 complete!
So going over this coming weekend to get a good look at it, and will buy it. Whether it works or not, it's tough to pass up a '55-'59 Chevy truck axle at the price. If I can get it low enough with fairly flat springs, I'll do a disc brake conversion to it, and use it.
 
#30 ·
Might be getting the cart ahead of the horse, but couldn't resist these. A friend is a very advanced license plate collector, and dealer. I mentioned to him I wanted him to keep an eye out for a pair of 1939 Oregon plates. Last night we had our monthly meeting for another collector group we both belong to, and he asked me to stop by his house afterwards. He goes over to his storage area in his garage, and pulls out a milk crate. Then pulls 7 sets of 1939 Oregon plates out of the crate and asks me which pair I want? The pair I liked best was in the least perfect condition, but still extremely nice! I chose them because of a very unique number I just liked. It was 59- all zeros after that! Easy to recall your license number if ever asked.
I got out my wallet, but he refused to let me pay for them. Said I'd helped him too often without him paying, so these were "his treat". Now I can go down to DMV and get the title changed, and have these plates assigned to my '39 for a one time, lifetime single fee. Wont be going on the car for a long time, but I didn't want to do two trips to DMV to accomplish everything. And since it has an Oregon title they don't need to see the car to transfer it to my name. Easy peasy!
 
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