1935 Chevy Gasser - Page 37
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Thread: 1935 Chevy Gasser

  1. #361
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    It’s the original pedal setup from Chevy. But you are right about the holes. I will drill one lower closer to center to gain some swing.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

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  3. #362
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    I pulled the pedal assembly and heated the rod so I could bend it away from the floor. But that didn’t help and I had to round it back down to the floor. Most of the issue was at the carb linkage by the intake. I had to adjust the switch again but now it lights up the test light at full throttle.
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    Last edited by mmhotrod; 06-25-2020 at 12:36 PM.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  4. #363
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    That's true hotrodding Mario! Just do whatever it takes to make it work.
    Vall

  5. #364
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    I took the time to change up the bolt procedure on my seat installation. I used two 3/8 arp bellhousing studs at the back of the seat track with 3/16 plate as an anchor or washer. I had to cut the slot in the seat track so I can do the slide. So now I can slide the back in first under the plate washers and put the front bolts in while still loose at the back. Studs use a 12 pt nut that uses a 7/16 wrench. Makes more room but I still had to grind an old wrench to go over the top on one stud. But all in all it’s so much easier now to unbolt it all.

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    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  6. #365
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    After I got the seat back in I was pretty happy so I started cleaning up the car. I get to the engine and I’m wiping dust off the bug catcher and it moved. It was loose so I lifted it and the back came way up. The only way that could happen is if the wing nut was gone. My heart just sank. I pulled off the whole assembly and I was afraid to find what might have happened. I frantically looked for the wing but all over the air cleaner base. When I took off the air cleaner there it was. Sitting and waiting to grenade my motor. I learned something very important tonight. Never ever use a 7/16 nut for your carb stud. If that was a nut it would have swallowed the nut and done some real damage.

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    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  7. #366
    Senior Member sbauman2's Avatar
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    Mario

    that's why I use nylocks for that same application and I use blue loctite on the carb stud and the jam nut.
    Steve Hidden Content in sunny So Cal
    "and the beat goes on....................."

  8. #367
    Senior Member Road Angels's Avatar
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    looks like it ate some of the air cleaner base gasket...????
    Lash

  9. #368
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    I now fully agree with you on the loctite. When it comes off again I will use the nylons over the wing nuts.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  10. #369
    Senior Member mmhotrod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road Angels View Post
    looks like it ate some of the air cleaner base gasket...????
    I think it bounced around for so long that it tore up the gasket and sucked it in. The rest of it fell off on the out side.
    Mario





    "I post the work on my hotrod, not because it's the best way, rather it was the way I had to get it done with the resources I had.................
    Of which I might be an encouragement to other hotrodders".

  11. #370
    Administrator 1946Austin's Avatar
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    I also do as Steve said and use nylock nuts at the base of the 1/4" stud to lock it to the carb. If the stud does work loose, it wont ever allow the nut to get off the stud.
    Those base plates for the bug catcher scoops are never done well. They need to roll the edge flatter so it doesn't dig into the carb gasket. Everything I've ever owned had the gasket chewed up, even if it didn't work loose.
    I'd love to find one of the old style with the cast aluminum bases! They were very high quality, and I'd swap the stamped sheet metal bases I have on my Austin out if I found them.
    Vall

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