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Finally got a duece...

20K views 109 replies 11 participants last post by  1937Austin 
#1 ·
Just picked up this sweet '63 100 from Spokane.

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle


The PO had installed a new floor and mini-tubbed it. Don't really care about the tubs because he also had a narrowed 8.8 so it would have to go 4-link. I want to run springs. It's just welded to angle iron right now.

I have a speedway axle, just need springs for that. I'm going to make my own frame rails similar to the kits out there. Have a early Nova 283 that I will mate to one of my Muncies and use my 10 bolt rear.

Have a pair of seats that I got a few years ago that should work fine. Interior only needs headliner and carpet. The rest is fine.

This is the car that got me into gassers in the first place.

Mike
 
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#92 ·
Nice write up Mike! Glad things went pretty good for a first shake down cruise. Sure it will get better as you sort out cooling issues, and tune it. A little lean can cause big overheating issues too! Sure did with my Falcon until Mario mentioned jetting it larger, and all my overheating issues disappeared.
 
#95 ·
Did end up having to use a diode on the alternator. Works great now for $10 on eBay.

Getting it dialed in. Seems to get really hot quickly. Have the Mutha Thumpr cam, 12*/32* timing. Seems to run fine. Maybe too advanced? 10* better? Using a Summit box with a compatible distributor. Checked for bubbles/air in the coolant. Doesn’t seem to be any. Rad is above the block. 16# cap (new). Aluminum rad with 2-fans. 185* on / 175* off switch. And a 180* thermostat. On the test stand, it ran for 20 minutes and didn’t get this hot. That was 6 years ago!

Anyone have a back seat for a Chevy II sedan?
 

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#101 ·
Had the too tight rocker issue on my Austin when I put together the new 4 bolt main 350 in it. Cam maker's spec was 1 to 1.5 turns after zero lash. But doing so made the engine idle fine, but all sorts of issues above idle rpm. I backed them off until the rattled, and then went to zero lash. Shut it off and added 1/4 turn preload and it ran perfect.
 
#102 ·
That's what my bud said. He also suggested those clips to stop the oil. I haven't had luck with those so he said to get the engine running with the valve cover just sitting on it. Lower the idle as low as it will go and keep running to reduce oil. Then pull the cover and start at the front. Loosen to rattle, then tighten to quiet, next, and next, and so on. Then shut it off. Go back and tighten each the 1/4 turn and put the cover on. Repeat for the other side. Sounds like a plan.

Mike
 
#103 ·
I have a spare set of valve covers you can have Mike! Just cut the top out on 3 sides, but leave the exhaust side intact. Then screw them down to a piece of wood to hold the edge, and bend them open to create a splash shield. Then bolt them on your head and start the engine. The oil will hit the shield you made and drain back into the head. I sometimes tack on side shields at each end if an engine oils too profusely and splashes at the ends outside the shield.
Just give me a call and drop by if you want them.
 
#104 ·
I forgot to post the results. Yes, they were all too tight. Some by more than a turn. I should have set them after starting it up... lesson learned. Static adjustment isn't final.

Runs sooooooo good now. Very eager to leap.

So now just a few final things to tidy up and it's done. Headliner, carpet, cage, the rest of the rubber seals and a line-loc I picked up at the swap meet.

Still looking for a rear seat. Haven't found one locally and people want a lot of money for cores. Wow! May have to run without one.

Mike
 
#105 ·
Have you measured up the size and checked the junkyards for a possible donor seat Mike? I ended up using a Taurus folding leather seat for the back of my Falcon and it took some modification, but worked great. It also had a folding backrest, so I left it down all the time to use to toss cooler or chair on. But had the option of putting it up occasionally if someone wanted to sit in the back.
 
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