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Tilt Front 57 Chevy

12K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  1937Austin 
#1 ·
This is my first post in this area so don't crucify me if I get it wrong. Pics might be a problem.
I built my 57 with intentions of flipping the front end, not because it looks cool but mostly for access to the engine compartment without standing on a ladder. I used linear bearings with 1" bars to slide the front end forward before flipping up. Everything works great with very smooth operation, except for one thing. The lip on the edge of the hood towards the firewall hangs up on the firewall when sliding forward. I'm hoping to attach a pic showing this with an arrow pointing to the lip.
Not sure if I should trim the lip off the hood, making it more flimsy than it already is in that area, or if someone else has already crossed this bridge, what did you do?
Any ideas would appreciated and considered.
Thanks
 

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#2 ·
Since it's painted, it makes the fix a bit tougher, as it requires a solution that wont hurt the paint. I had a similar issue on my Falcon, but fixed it during mock up. I welded a angle piece to the inside of my hood that rides up over the lip and keeps the edge from hanging up. What I'd suggest in your case would be possibly making up a filler that can be pop riveted to the inside of the lip, so it would guide the edge up gradually. Of course it needs to be made to clear the ridge on the cowl also, and you might consider making it of Teflon or poly so it wont wear metal to metal. May also consider making something out of the same material, and adding it to the rear edge of the cowl ridge. Adding the sloped edge there would do the same thing, and allow the hood lip to be guided up and over the ridge. It could be mounted with countersunk screws, and would only need to be 3"-4" pieces mounted in a few locations, instead of the whole width.
 
#4 ·
I agree with Vall's idea for your car. The nylon block idea could work great. Cutting that lip off is also a possibility but then you would need to address the cut edge.

I did my '55 with linear bearings very similar but don't have the issue of the hood lip. Must be a change due to the cowl vent change from 55-56.

What did you use to keep the front end forward so you can tilt it? I have a couple struts that I was trying to see if I could make work.

Mike
 
#5 · (Edited)
I built ramps for the firewall that bolt where the original hood hinges go. I welded a small wheel to the hood underside. This wheel rolls the back side of the hood/fenders out on the ramp about 6". I used half moon locks ( there's a real word for this but I can't think of it right now) on the end of 1" shaft that slides in and out of the linear bearings. These locks or clamps stop the front end from rolling out too far. I welded a small bracket on my lower hood brace that comes down on the end of the frame when the fronted is tilted. This bracket keeps the fronted from wanting to side backwards when tilted. The ramps are almost high enough to clear my hood lip problem and probably would have if I hadn't cut out the hole for the carbs. The hole makes the hood sag just enough to drag. I also built the ramps on a slight angle downward so the frontend will want to slide forward. It all works great except for the small drag at the hood lip. Probably going to use Vall's idea for that. You can barely see the clamp on the 1" shaft in the third picture.
 

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#6 ·
Seeing the guides you have already built, I think the answer is even simpler! Just weld in a small hump in the track to raise it over the cowl as it's pulled forward. That will cure the problem with no harm to the paint. A small hump may be just enough to make it clear from the sag.
 
#7 ·
Well, originally that's what I made the ramp/guide for. As the hood slides back, it's moving uphill due to the angle I made in the ramp. This makes the rear of the hood rise and 'want' to clear the firewall. I already made a smaller ramp on the back side so the the wheel will carry the hood down and 'seat' where it's supposed to. The real problem here is the driver side of the hood clears fine. The passenger side is the one that's giving me trouble and I think it's because when I lift the fender and hood on the driver side to come off the small ramp in the rear, it's causing the pass side to dip down hanging up on the firewall. I tried putting a paint mixing stick in the track on the pass side to see if it would help the hood clear, but it did not. I'm not sure there is a cure for this because the front end wants to dip on the opposite side (other than lift on the pass side first). I've got a ton of braces under the fenders and hood to make it stiffer, but it's so heavy and bulky it still sags on the opposite side. Maybe I should consider a glass front end? I don't know. It works great except for the lip problem. I've thought about trying to incorporate some kind of spring loaded gadget to pop the hood up, kind of like the old hood latches used to do. I just thought someone might have already fought this battle. I appreciate your thoughts on this, really.
 
#10 ·
I did fight the same battle, but as I mentioned I did so on old metal, and not freshly painted steel. On my Falcon I had to cut the hole completely out as you did, so my hood got pretty flimsy, even with a tube frame inside. Just couldn't put tubing where it was truly needed! I ended up going to my buddy's sheet metal shop and had him bend me up a lip to weld into the hood opening. I tacked it in with the hood supported in the position I wanted it, and after getting it tacked in place the hood was a solid as before I cut it out! It also finished off the opening and helps keep water out when I wash it.
Here's a picture of the lip I made.



http://www.gasserhotrods.com/forum/showthread.php?1072-63-Falcon-Futura-Gasser/page69
 
#13 ·
Looks like how I did mine. I still don't see the stops that you used when open. That's my catch. And as far as the ramps go, just add a small rise inside the channel to raise up the hood like Vall said. That's how mine will be. I have paint sticks in there now to do it.

Here is it working.



And how the rails work.


Thanks!

Mike
 
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